Appreciate the input and agree with going crazy. Though I might already be, I am Autistic after all.
Good to know, especially about the site. I had not even considered building an active crossover or equalizer. Think is so many to choose from: https://sound-au.com/p-cat.htm#xvr.
It sure does and is appreciated, thank you.
I just realized multitasking I posed a rough draft of a post and accidentally included it my response to @OldHector , sorry about that. Need to be more careful in the future.
So what equates to my 64HP Volkswagen Squareback?
(Being silly).Back to being serious, this is a great explanation and jives with the information I have read. It makes me happy as others can benefit from a very clear and creative analogy.
To go back to the automotive analogy, running a tube at part power be like my Dad driving his 40HP Beetle no more than 45MPH, even on Southern California freeways, that engine lasted for about 250,000 miles! NOS tubes are of course in a ever limited supply, so running them at 150 percent does not seem a prudent choice.
Speaking of tube voltage, the question I have now knowing how to set B+ voltage, Load Z, Vp, Vk, Rk, Ik, Diss (idle); will have to keep reading the information generously provided.
Depends on design parameters and application.
For example, tubes don't have the damping factor of SS and the OPT limits low frequency response (often if changed to a OPT for better low frequency the high frequency is clipped lower), so sometimes bi amping with the woofer driven by SS and the main and tweeter driven by tubes produces a better result. YRMV
Reading though the site @OldHector provided and read this: "The KT88 is low gain, requiring extra pre-amp circuitry to achieve a large signal voltage to drive a pair of KT88s to full power." So does that mean the EL34 and EL84 might not need a pre amplifier?
So-
I'm kind of dizzy reading this thread...
IMO, the OP needs to get a soldering iron and practice....
Then-
Slow down with the key punching and build something....
Listen, tweak, modify, learn...
Theres lots of good info and people here... don't get out over your skis with googl-ey theories.. Most are worth exactly what you paid for them
Jim
ps. double spaced so it would take you lil longer to read - lol
I'm kind of dizzy reading this thread...
IMO, the OP needs to get a soldering iron and practice....
Then-
Slow down with the key punching and build something....
Listen, tweak, modify, learn...
Theres lots of good info and people here... don't get out over your skis with googl-ey theories.. Most are worth exactly what you paid for them
Jim
ps. double spaced so it would take you lil longer to read - lol
My advice would be to build something like the RH-Universal or the KT88 SE amp by Mikael Abdullah or version of it. They are well documented, good sounding, and relatively easy to build. If you build a KT88 amp buy a power transformer with the most current capacity you can afford. That way you can use it on your next amp! Same with the OPTs, get nice ones. They are critical. There are some decent ones on AliExpress for not terrible money, shipping is expensive. OPTs are like tires, you can have a huge engine but with crap tires you cant get the power to the ground, same with OPTs. Don’t go crazy with special caps or resistors, the ROI is minimal especially for a first amp. Don’t obsess on tiny details, enjoy yourself. Analysis paralysis is the enemy of fun and results!
Yes? I am listening.
I suggest sitting down before falling over.
I am basically there, need the updated schematic, create a parts list, and order. Finding a recommendation to build as is and then maybe build as is resonates with me (that may be a pun
).Still listening.
I have restrained myself from writing far more. Look how long I have waited for the speakers to be modeled.
If you know not the why, how can there be understanding? It be fantastic if I had the funds to built both a SE and a PP to compare, however, I don't. So, asked a question or two and have decided on PP using EL84 tubes for about 10 watts a channel, per the recommendations here.
Theres lots of good info and people here... don't get out over your skis with googl-ey theories.. Most are worth exactly what you paid for them
Fully agree, it is because of the generosity of the folks and the plethora of information that has led to me asking questions. If after I had given the design perimeters and told what to build, probably would have at the possible detriment of not understanding.
Triple spaced to show I am responding slowly.
That is what I was originally considering, however, I was dissuaded from it.
As I said, I don't have the ability (money and time) to build multiple systems. I rather build a system paired with the BIBs that I will not have the desire anytime soon to replace. I am tired of adjusting systems, rather do more listening of LPs.
Speaking of transformers, IPTs is also where I am partly stuck, does dual mono bocks (left and right channels sharing the IPT) have the same specification as the stereo version?
As I understand, with 97dB sensitivity and 10 watts, coming close to that.
Right now, I feel like I am in the crawling stage grasping for things (I nor Dad used our legs to crawl, we grabbed and pulled).
The 'why' is in your opening post. What I'm offering is a path to answering that Q, professor.
Thats a splendid starting point- It's hard to build a bad EL84 amp. I built the Audionote design and loved it- below...
Jim
Attachments
I am not tracking...
I was just looking at this and at first glance, looks really similar, both dual mono blocks?
Would you please be willing to help with Audionote build?
Jim, sorry to confuse you, just thought it was trippy experience.
Already looking on Mouser and working on a parts list, trusting you would help. Hopefully I didn't mess this up.
A little overwhelming all the brands to choose from! Thinking best to shoot in the middle.
By the way, some of the text on the schematic isn't legible.
I built the Tubelab SPP twice. On the PCB first time, then translated the design to P2P in an old cooking tray so I could compare like for like if I got into problems. The passive components are not so expensive to order sufficient for 2 builds, often '10' of something is the same price as '5'.
Okay, good to know, appreciated. As stereo or mono block? Steph of Skunkie Designs is concerning demonstrating the conversion of the circuit board though has not materialized, additionally, my preference is point to point. I am all ears.
Since @oemcar offered assistance versus a recommendation, proceeding with the Audio Note L1 clone, which of course greatly appreciate (I know I am a dense and difficult personality, trying to correct that).
For those folks also needing tube specifications:
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/019/e/ECF80.pdf
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/019/e/EL84.pdf
In this case, minimum heater amps is = (2*0,43amps)+(2*0,76amps)=2,38amps.
The trouble is the differences between the diagrams, one has voltages labeled and one does not. The one labeled has ECF80 plate voltages of 89VDC and 198VDC, neither the 170VDC specification. So which is correct? If the former, how many milliamps? Again, same for the EL-84, the biggest concern is the table of 325VDC, exceeding the specification of 300VDC. Which is correct and if the former, how do we adjust so as to get to the 300VDC and therefore known amperage?
Without this information, the parts can't be ordered and satisfy those desiring the build to proceed.
Thanks in advance!
For those folks also needing tube specifications:
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/019/e/ECF80.pdf
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/019/e/EL84.pdf
In this case, minimum heater amps is = (2*0,43amps)+(2*0,76amps)=2,38amps.
The trouble is the differences between the diagrams, one has voltages labeled and one does not. The one labeled has ECF80 plate voltages of 89VDC and 198VDC, neither the 170VDC specification. So which is correct? If the former, how many milliamps? Again, same for the EL-84, the biggest concern is the table of 325VDC, exceeding the specification of 300VDC. Which is correct and if the former, how do we adjust so as to get to the 300VDC and therefore known amperage?
Without this information, the parts can't be ordered and satisfy those desiring the build to proceed.
Thanks in advance!