Hello,
I wonder whether is possible for amateur to sort out what happened to amplifier during shipping, to make it work again.
Before shipping it was working.
Unfortunately it was insufficiently packed.
During shipping the parcel was clearly dropped the way speaker terminals were partially damaged/ bent/ a couple of them broken, back plate bent in that area.
All other areas are visually in nice condition.
The amp is Sony TA-F444ESII.
There is no light coming when switched ON. Thus from there nothing further is happening.
I assume there must be a procedure to find out where the problem lies, step by step.
Perhaps I might be able to follow those steps.
Thank you for any help.
I wonder whether is possible for amateur to sort out what happened to amplifier during shipping, to make it work again.
Before shipping it was working.
Unfortunately it was insufficiently packed.
During shipping the parcel was clearly dropped the way speaker terminals were partially damaged/ bent/ a couple of them broken, back plate bent in that area.
All other areas are visually in nice condition.
The amp is Sony TA-F444ESII.
There is no light coming when switched ON. Thus from there nothing further is happening.
I assume there must be a procedure to find out where the problem lies, step by step.
Perhaps I might be able to follow those steps.
Thank you for any help.
Some pictures might help.
Step N°1: checking the fuse (while disconnected from mains).
Step N°1: checking the fuse (while disconnected from mains).
Thank you, I did a couple of things.
Tried to flatten the back panel after dismantling pair of speaker terminals.
I did check power plug fuse and two fuses around the power switch inside. All are fine.
Then, there is no power coming to the switch..
Then I have discovered the power cord is damaged 3cm from case exposing copper under insulation.
That might be the case!
I am going to try to cut the cord, shorten it and reconnect to the power switch.
Let’s see..
Some pictures attached.
Tried to flatten the back panel after dismantling pair of speaker terminals.
I did check power plug fuse and two fuses around the power switch inside. All are fine.
Then, there is no power coming to the switch..
Then I have discovered the power cord is damaged 3cm from case exposing copper under insulation.
That might be the case!
I am going to try to cut the cord, shorten it and reconnect to the power switch.
Let’s see..
Some pictures attached.
Yes it looks like the power cord is partially severed.
Make sure you take the necessary precautions while manipulating connected power cables!
Make sure you take the necessary precautions while manipulating connected power cables!
Now I am stuck with removing that clamp/grommet/sleeve whatever name it is where power cord passes through back panel.
If anyone knows the name of that thing, or
and how it can be removed, that will be helpful.
So till then, I will try just cut the cable and reconnect it outside of the amp.
If anyone knows the name of that thing, or
and how it can be removed, that will be helpful.
So till then, I will try just cut the cable and reconnect it outside of the amp.
Typically those can be removed by compressing them with a plier inside the chassis and pushing them out.
I don't mean to be Buzz Killington here, but do you know for sure that the amp was working before shipment or did a seller just tell you that it was working?
I once bought a network analyzer on eBay. There was no padding inside the box so the 75-lb analyzer took a beating. One corner was crushed in by about an inch. This was an HP3500-series instrument which is built like a tank, so that kind of damage would take some doing. There was no matching damage on the shipping box. I bet the seller was trying to make the USPS pay for the damage caused by the analyzer falling off the bench at some point by claiming it was damaged in transit. In the end I got my money back through the Paypal buyer protection. All I was out was my time.
I just find it a bit hard to believe that the amp would be completely non-functional after a tumble like that. But then again stranger things have happened.
Tom
I once bought a network analyzer on eBay. There was no padding inside the box so the 75-lb analyzer took a beating. One corner was crushed in by about an inch. This was an HP3500-series instrument which is built like a tank, so that kind of damage would take some doing. There was no matching damage on the shipping box. I bet the seller was trying to make the USPS pay for the damage caused by the analyzer falling off the bench at some point by claiming it was damaged in transit. In the end I got my money back through the Paypal buyer protection. All I was out was my time.
I just find it a bit hard to believe that the amp would be completely non-functional after a tumble like that. But then again stranger things have happened.
Tom
Get the schematic and trace the power from the cord through the switches, fuse, transformer ...
Rather than splicing the power cord outside the case, it is generally safer to replace it all the way through the panel and over to the first termination. That appears to be a metal box thing on the lower right of the picture. The power cord hot & neutral appear to be soldered to that metal box? Unplug power cord from wall, remove strain relief fitting through wall with slip joint pliers. Then unsolder wires from metal box (RF filter?). Wear safety glasses unsoldering, solder splashes. Use 120 watt iron, 16 to 14 ga wire requires that much heat to make solder melt. Use needle nose pliers to remove the power cord from the terminals while solder is hot. Replacing use rosin core 60/40 or 65/35 solder. I find stripping power cord is precise with a Klein stripper. Be sure replacement power cord is same wire gauge as old one. If ground (green) connection to case requires a crimped on ring terminal, buy a package from Dorman at the auto supply or TE connectivity 3M or Panduit at the same electronic supply you get the power cord from. You are unlikely to find solder & soldering iron at an electrical supply, such use is prohibited in house wiring by the electrical codes. Soldering is legal inside an appliance. The Klein stripper tool also has crimp features for terminals. Replace cord grip in the back wall with slip joint pliers. I buy electronic supplies at Newark Digikey and Mouser. In UK newark is called farnell and there is also RS. You can buy the klein stripper tool and safety glasses from a home improvement store, but the proper gauge power cord, the ring terminals, the solder, and the 120 w soldering iron (I like the pistols) come from an electronic supply.
If the amp refuses to power up after the cord is replaced, do not ever measure two points with two hands. >25 f across your heart can stop it. Wall voltage in UK is 220 or 240 vac. Use an alligator clip lead on one DVM terminal and measure voltage with one hand. We repair people usually power a defective amp through a "light bulb box" that interrupts the AC supply with a series 60 w or 100 w tungsten light bulb. Mine has a circuit breaker and a grounded case. This limits the energy to faults that can cause parts to explode. One other safety tip, wear no metal on hands wrists or neck when measuring voltage inside an appliance. 1 v at high current through a ring or watch can burn your flesh to charcoal.
Without power the fuses near the metal box lower right can be checked with the diode/continuity scale of a dvm. Resistance should be <1. When starting on an amp repair project, buying a package (5) of fuses for the device that is not functioning at the same time as the solder, terminals, soldering iron, can save you a $12 freight charge when you do need them. Unless you live in London or Manchester, you are unlikely to find electronic supplies at any retail store. You can buy new binder terminals/bananajacks for the speaker connections at the same time as the other electronic supplies. The dual jacks are 3/4" spacing, US inches unfortunately for Europeans. Tip for buying from electronic distributors, if you get the order over $25 to $40, then the distributor will not charge you a handling surcharge. Be sure any website you order from has stock in YOUR country, you don't want to do customs peperwork and even if the distributor handles the customs, there can be delay at the port of entry of 10 weeks. Lst I heard UK was not customs free with any other country. Ordering items that are listed but out of stock can involve delays of up to 2 years, or forever.
If the amp refuses to power up after the cord is replaced, do not ever measure two points with two hands. >25 f across your heart can stop it. Wall voltage in UK is 220 or 240 vac. Use an alligator clip lead on one DVM terminal and measure voltage with one hand. We repair people usually power a defective amp through a "light bulb box" that interrupts the AC supply with a series 60 w or 100 w tungsten light bulb. Mine has a circuit breaker and a grounded case. This limits the energy to faults that can cause parts to explode. One other safety tip, wear no metal on hands wrists or neck when measuring voltage inside an appliance. 1 v at high current through a ring or watch can burn your flesh to charcoal.
Without power the fuses near the metal box lower right can be checked with the diode/continuity scale of a dvm. Resistance should be <1. When starting on an amp repair project, buying a package (5) of fuses for the device that is not functioning at the same time as the solder, terminals, soldering iron, can save you a $12 freight charge when you do need them. Unless you live in London or Manchester, you are unlikely to find electronic supplies at any retail store. You can buy new binder terminals/bananajacks for the speaker connections at the same time as the other electronic supplies. The dual jacks are 3/4" spacing, US inches unfortunately for Europeans. Tip for buying from electronic distributors, if you get the order over $25 to $40, then the distributor will not charge you a handling surcharge. Be sure any website you order from has stock in YOUR country, you don't want to do customs peperwork and even if the distributor handles the customs, there can be delay at the port of entry of 10 weeks. Lst I heard UK was not customs free with any other country. Ordering items that are listed but out of stock can involve delays of up to 2 years, or forever.
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I would put a new cord direct, that will allow testing....for reasons below mentioned.
By the way, 3rd picture in Post #3 shows damage to cord, maybe do a splice or cut there, and check continuity to inside the unit, where it ends.
Also, think of simply raising a dispute, and returning the item.
Some of those sets had unusual circuits, some FETs peculiar to Sony are long obsolete.
Let it be the seller's problem.
Look for traces of work attempted earlier, if some amateur has been at it, all bets are off...
By the way, 3rd picture in Post #3 shows damage to cord, maybe do a splice or cut there, and check continuity to inside the unit, where it ends.
Also, think of simply raising a dispute, and returning the item.
Some of those sets had unusual circuits, some FETs peculiar to Sony are long obsolete.
Let it be the seller's problem.
Look for traces of work attempted earlier, if some amateur has been at it, all bets are off...
In test mode, I solder in a new cord after cutting the damaged portion, cover joints with heat shrink, then insulating tape.
For loads less than about 50W, I use a two core mains cord with insulated alligator clips, and wear shoes, and only one hand in the item, other one free, not touching anything.
And somebody near me with a wooden stick, if I look like I am being electrocuted...
In this case, I would solder in a new cord at the termination points, disconnecting the damaged cord, in case of the seller trying to wriggle out of responsibility.
The damaged cord is evidence that it probably was not working, grounds to raise a complaint.
That will be a test cord, outside the housing, which in any case will be open.
I still feel the item was damaged or faulty before shipping.
Best inform the seller, and see the response.
For loads less than about 50W, I use a two core mains cord with insulated alligator clips, and wear shoes, and only one hand in the item, other one free, not touching anything.
And somebody near me with a wooden stick, if I look like I am being electrocuted...
In this case, I would solder in a new cord at the termination points, disconnecting the damaged cord, in case of the seller trying to wriggle out of responsibility.
The damaged cord is evidence that it probably was not working, grounds to raise a complaint.
That will be a test cord, outside the housing, which in any case will be open.
I still feel the item was damaged or faulty before shipping.
Best inform the seller, and see the response.
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I got it with tuner shipped in separate box, and that tuner is working fine and because it’s lightweight the packing there was relatively ok. The amp is much heavier and was put into box from aside, that way it was very hard to secure it property, as sellers said it was challenging for him. Without proper experience with shipping of these things he would estimate it was sufficient, but for me, from the first view while unpacking, it clearly wasn’t.. some loose polystyrene pieces around etc
I have checked inside, tha amp looks clean and not tempered with.
The seller offered return and full compensation based just on damage of speaker posts, but I won the auction for less then £70, cheap, thus trying to sort it out.
And yesterday evening I did cut the cord outside of amp, connected the wires using insulated connectors, the continuity was fine, and then plugged it in, voltage came 240V to the switch, so I switched it on, ready to unplug if some strange behaviour, but it was silent. Lights came on. After a couple of seconds there was audible gentle click from speaker protection circuit, all good I thought.
So I have connected the source, switched the speakers output from off to B section, which is less damaged and checked the AC voltage on B terminals, around 2.3VAV on left channel, around 2.5VAC on right channel. Then i have checked the DC voltage on speakers outputs, which for both channels were around 0VDC, great so far.. So I have connected the speakers, and it really works! It sounds very nice..
Thank you for detailed reply! 👍
Yes, I will definitely connect the power lead directly to those terminals. They are on the small switch board, right top on the picture, I think (I am at work at the moment) wrapped around pins and soldered there..