It leans towards Water Buffalo, Sea Stack and Nostromo. Pencil can work too. Nostromo is a bit weak in the bass but I have a sub that can work with them.
Unfortunately, this is a subjective matter relating to the axial & power response, and their interaction with the rest of your system, including the room. So what you hear is not necessarily what somebody else will. That being the case, I tend to stay with my previous advice: build whatever you believe in advance will work best for you.
Yes.
This is done by moving the speakers out into the room and sitting a bit out from the back wall.
Remove side reflectors that can interfere. It is usually about inches of placement of the speakers. Very sensitive.
I want to make a box that gets A11MS neutral, a bit out in the room. Not against a wall.
This is done by moving the speakers out into the room and sitting a bit out from the back wall.
Remove side reflectors that can interfere. It is usually about inches of placement of the speakers. Very sensitive.
I want to make a box that gets A11MS neutral, a bit out in the room. Not against a wall.
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I wonder which drawer construction gives the slightest impact on the cone in the driver? Maybe that's the solution for me.
Small rash on the cone = as little distortion as possible.
Small rash on the cone = as little distortion as possible.
I have read somewhere that there are speaker constructions that make the cone stand almost completely still. Are they QW constructions?
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Horns. Full sized horns. Well, they're the most efficient load for a given signal input down to tuning at any rate, i.e. for a given output the driver will not move as far over the horn's operating range.
That is perhaps something better asked of other people.
One point -don't fixate on something like this. It's a laudable goal in itself, but it isn't always as simple as that: for instance, I would be careful about using a high compression ratio horn with something like the 11MS (or similar drivers) -the air-load may end up being high enough to deform the cone under dynamic conditions.
One point -don't fixate on something like this. It's a laudable goal in itself, but it isn't always as simple as that: for instance, I would be careful about using a high compression ratio horn with something like the 11MS (or similar drivers) -the air-load may end up being high enough to deform the cone under dynamic conditions.
Pencil is good in that regard.
But how deep do they go in base?
Have not found any number at all.
Do they need support from the back wall?
They seem to be a nice load for amplifiers.
But how deep do they go in base?
Have not found any number at all.
Do they need support from the back wall?
They seem to be a nice load for amplifiers.
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I heared that they measure to 40Hz in room, don't find the tread back on an other forum. But following other pencil (and MLTL designs) that look very logic for this driver in such an enclosure. Pencils are made to be used close to a wall i though (therefor front ported MLTL's)
Is there a box that is suitable for standing a bit out in the room?
What do you think of Buffalo and Sea?
What do you think of Buffalo and Sea?
The pensils are not especially meant for use near boundaries. They can be used near them, but are by design intent relatively adjustable. The position of a vent on the front or rear baffle has no direct connection to whether a given design is meant to be used near boundaries. Sometimes, but not all the time.
Sea Stack, and then build either FHXL or Joan, which ever is better suited to the 11MS.🙂
C'mon, start making some sawdust.😀
jeff
C'mon, start making some sawdust.😀
jeff
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I'm thinking about that over the weekend. Draw a sketch of all the pieces with all its dimensions. Then I hand it in at a local carpenter who cuts the pieces exactly.
I put everything together myself.
Fun hobby this.
I put everything together myself.
Fun hobby this.
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With the current market price of lumber it's not a good time to be experimenting.
I built my first speaker a few weeks ago, a voigt pipe. it's the easiest of all to construct and the primitive design works well with any driver. I think it doesn't matter what you build, but the bigger the cabinet then the better the results. the frugel horn/joan has an extra part to boost the bass which has to be added with mine via the amp knob.
I built my first speaker a few weeks ago, a voigt pipe. it's the easiest of all to construct and the primitive design works well with any driver. I think it doesn't matter what you build, but the bigger the cabinet then the better the results. the frugel horn/joan has an extra part to boost the bass which has to be added with mine via the amp knob.
I will try a design.
But I do not get clarity which one suits me best. But that's when you can not listen first.
Pencil, Sea and Buffalo are in between.
I like all 3.
But I do not get clarity which one suits me best. But that's when you can not listen first.
Pencil, Sea and Buffalo are in between.
I like all 3.
Good imaging.soundstage requires that the i,portant information needed to provide that illusion, first is on the recording, and second, if it is it is important not to lose it getting to the loudspeaker and then the loudspeaker being able to reproduce those small bits of information.
The latest generations of metal cone Mark Audio all do a decent job, EnABLed or MAOP take it a stage further.
No A11ms MAOPs thou.
dave