During the screwing process I cover the driver with the cardboard protector that comes in the packaging, just in case I slip....just as a precaution not that I have damaged a driver this way!
So after a small delay onto the enclosure building. I really want to NOT use a BSC on my speakers so i narrowed it down to:
BIB
Silbury
FHXL
My room is about 13'x26'x8'. My speakers are on the 13' dimension. I listen probably like 10' back maximum.
I also do like some bass.
My plan is to use a local CNC shop for all the wood.
Any help would be great.
Thanks!
BIB
Silbury
FHXL
My room is about 13'x26'x8'. My speakers are on the 13' dimension. I listen probably like 10' back maximum.
I also do like some bass.
My plan is to use a local CNC shop for all the wood.
Any help would be great.
Thanks!
Of the boxes you mention, the CNC will be able to cut all but the angle bits at the end of the horn and the BIB certral partition. All the rectangular pieces of the FHXL have to go thru the table saw — unless the CNC is at least 5-axis.
The larger boxes have the most gain. The BIB really-really needs the corner to complete the horn, the other 2 can get away with being just near a wall. Silbury & FHXL are more refined, the BIB is brute force, its suitability depends on your sensitivity to the ripple at the lowest frequencies. If you have the room Silbury will be the most finessed with the most gain in the bass — it can be damped back if too much, but easier to subtract than add (as one would with BSC).
dave
The larger boxes have the most gain. The BIB really-really needs the corner to complete the horn, the other 2 can get away with being just near a wall. Silbury & FHXL are more refined, the BIB is brute force, its suitability depends on your sensitivity to the ripple at the lowest frequencies. If you have the room Silbury will be the most finessed with the most gain in the bass — it can be damped back if too much, but easier to subtract than add (as one would with BSC).
dave
Yes. Should do. With the rear mouth it does not have the same integration issues as say Haruna, but you are listening far enuff out that even those would probably not be problematic.
dave
dave
15-18mm should be fine, but with 18mm baffle. A solid baffle should be fine, but even thicker. Do follow solid wood build guidlines.
dave
dave
being in the USA I have to deal with inches.. ugh. So 3/4 " will be the thickness. Could you expand on the solid wood building guidelines?
Personal aesthetic preference for smaller boxes than the Silbury, or BIB. If not too imposing for the space, I’d imagine the Silbury would outperform the FHXL, and while it entails quite a few more pieces of material, they are all rectangular with simple 90dg cuts, so with patience all could be cut on a proper sized cabinet saw. Of the several of the manifold style I’ve built, I don’t think any were CNC’d - simple butt joints brad nailed from the outside, then filled and veneered was usually my go-to.
As for “solid wood building guidelines”, I think if you need to ask, for a project the size of the Silburys, I’d be inclined to stick with high quality plywood.
Do not trust the label. Dep´nding on where you are, 3/4 could be 18mm and 5/8 15mm. Windsor Plywood down the street does that.
Take a caliper and measure i†. Even 18mm will often be at least a few 10ths off.
dave
AG,
"Forest Products" has BB ply if you still need some. They have reasonable prices and are located near 694 on hwy 61 south of White Bear Lake. It's the real stuff, not the cheaper, minimal ply, big box store product. They do alot of nice cabinetry and casework. You may want to call to check availible stock and sizes depending on your cut plans.
Good luck,
Marko
"Forest Products" has BB ply if you still need some. They have reasonable prices and are located near 694 on hwy 61 south of White Bear Lake. It's the real stuff, not the cheaper, minimal ply, big box store product. They do alot of nice cabinetry and casework. You may want to call to check availible stock and sizes depending on your cut plans.
Good luck,
Marko
Dave, could you explain how the castle helps with bipole dip please? Hope the OP doesn't mind the aside.
If reduces the difference in distance between drivers. The top driver placemtn means splash off the ceiling not the back wall making placement easier.
dave
dave
An update: Still working to get an actual CAD file of Silbury to the CNC shop. I will probably use Forest Products as a source of the plywood.
As a side note: What does everyone use as simulation software for box construction, room gain etc?
Thanks!
As a side note: What does everyone use as simulation software for box construction, room gain etc?
Thanks!
so i have the enclosures partly built. question though... will lining the interior walls decrease or increase apparent volume in a bass reflex design?
as my 34L enclosure went down to 28L after adding 1/2 inch of wool felt to interior walls.
thoughts?
oh and these sound really good. dual a10p drivers per side. i will post photos soon.
as my 34L enclosure went down to 28L after adding 1/2 inch of wool felt to interior walls.
thoughts?
oh and these sound really good. dual a10p drivers per side. i will post photos soon.