Hey Scottmoose... just saw your presentation on YouTube at the NWAS 2018. Quite a lot of information presented. Well done.
Anyways, question.. did the design presented include a BSC or was the whole design include room gain and BSC to determine final box alignment?
i should just buy those drivers while they are on sale and determine what i want to do.
just don't know if i want to do a BR, Bipole, dual driver etc. ugh. lol.
Anyways, question.. did the design presented include a BSC or was the whole design include room gain and BSC to determine final box alignment?
i should just buy those drivers while they are on sale and determine what i want to do.
just don't know if i want to do a BR, Bipole, dual driver etc. ugh. lol.
I am in the midst of reading the BIB thread... wow there is a lot.
So. no more analysis. BIB with the Mark Audio A10P... which seems like it would be better than the 12P overall.
Using the online calculator with:
Fr: 42Hz
VAS: 29.995L
QTS: 0.330
Has a height of ~82" about 10" wide and 13" deep approx.
driver height is ~48" from floor.
does this seem accurate or doable? or should i increase Fr?
Thanks!
So. no more analysis. BIB with the Mark Audio A10P... which seems like it would be better than the 12P overall.
Using the online calculator with:
Fr: 42Hz
VAS: 29.995L
QTS: 0.330
Has a height of ~82" about 10" wide and 13" deep approx.
driver height is ~48" from floor.
does this seem accurate or doable? or should i increase Fr?
Thanks!
I have some Alpair 10.3 that I am still debating what enclosure to put them in. I am leaning towards a compact floor stander due to its thin depth for use as surrounds, but I could change my mind a couple of more times before I finally build something. You should have yours built before I make a decision.
question now becomes cabinet material. I will shy away from MDF. Probably go for plywood of some type. would there be any advantage in laminating the plywood horizontally... i.e. making U or O shapes out of plywood and gluing them together like a stack.
Or stick to large panels of plywood for the sides and maybe a nice piece of real wood for the front?
thoughts?
Or stick to large panels of plywood for the sides and maybe a nice piece of real wood for the front?
thoughts?
If we are talking about FHXL (single, double, or quad) the box is inherently well braced. 15mm (quality ply) is fine, but the baffle needs to be thicker (we used 18mm — all ply was from Murphy Ply in Oregon). A piece of solid overlaying the baffle or being the baffle should be fine.
Althou the twin box design does not really need the horizontal plate in the middle and you could leave out the vertical 2 inner walls but that would leave some panels flappin, it should at least be replaced by a holey brace. Personally i’d build the quad as two twins and clamp or screw them together. A monolithic version would be a bitch to move.
Translam is a big — nay huge — waste of materia & time. Not only that but it uses the ply in an orientation that throws away its strength so needs to be much thicker to attain the same stiffness.
dave
Althou the twin box design does not really need the horizontal plate in the middle and you could leave out the vertical 2 inner walls but that would leave some panels flappin, it should at least be replaced by a holey brace. Personally i’d build the quad as two twins and clamp or screw them together. A monolithic version would be a bitch to move.
Translam is a big — nay huge — waste of materia & time. Not only that but it uses the ply in an orientation that throws away its strength so needs to be much thicker to attain the same stiffness.
dave
ok sounds good. just noticed they come with its own mounting screws... should i use an t-nuts for these or just screw them directly to front panel?
currently drivers are being played on low volume with some getz / gilberto.
i think for right now i will just make some small BR speaker for them.. just to get them going. Use adjustable vent length to fine tune for my room... i don't want to use any BSC.. so we shall see.
Probably to 3/4" BB plywood for the box sides and back and find a nice piece of solid wood for the front panel.
currently drivers are being played on low volume with some getz / gilberto.
i think for right now i will just make some small BR speaker for them.. just to get them going. Use adjustable vent length to fine tune for my room... i don't want to use any BSC.. so we shall see.
Probably to 3/4" BB plywood for the box sides and back and find a nice piece of solid wood for the front panel.
The provided wood screws work fine, especially if you build with plywood. Bolts & threaded fasteners (after the 1st time you have a t-nut failure you will be unlikely to use them again).
Brass, stainless steel, or plastic would take things a step up (non-magnetic).
When tightening screws or bolts do not over tighten. They should only be tight enuff to hold a real or imaginary washer from spinning.
dace
Brass, stainless steel, or plastic would take things a step up (non-magnetic).
When tightening screws or bolts do not over tighten. They should only be tight enuff to hold a real or imaginary washer from spinning.
dace
I quite like the supplied mounting screws, and the only suggestion I’d make - particularly when using either Baltic Birch plywood or harder solids for the baffle- is to drill a carefully sized pilot hole, and pre-tap the screws before installing the drivers. If you don’t already have one in your tool kit, I’d recommend a T-handled hex driver - 3mm if I recall correctly.
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