Aleph-X: High-Power Version

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jump to Latest
#305
Coulomb said:



No more like over the top, almost to the point of being tacky.

Anthony
Click to expand...
Sorry Anthony, I knew that, I was just kidding.

You could use structural aluminum angle in the corners and anodize them to a color that suits your taste. The large radii of the structural angle will help to give it that "finished" look.
 
#306
Coulomb,
from what I can see I would rate your enclosure for 300W maybe 350W f anodized black. So I don't know if 8amp 27V is going to work. There is something to be said about putting 4 heatsinks with relatively thinly spaced fins in close proximity.
I would experiment first.
 
#308
grataku said:
Coulomb,
from what I can see I would rate your enclosure for 300W maybe 350W f anodized black. So I don't know if 8amp 27V is going to work. There is something to be said about putting 4 heatsinks with relatively thinly spaced fins in close proximity.
I would experiment first.
Click to expand...

Grataku so you think that 100 Watts TOP per channel is the max this chassis will handle?

Anthony
 
#309
grataku said:
Coulomb,
from what I can see I would rate your enclosure for 300W maybe 350W f anodized black. So I don't know if 8amp 27V is going to work. There is something to be said about putting 4 heatsinks with relatively thinly spaced fins in close proximity.
I would experiment first.
Click to expand...
I think you might be a little low on your estimate Grataku. Anthony's case is about the same width and depth as the Aleph 1.2 and it's a bit taller. It should do pretty good as 200wpc (~300 wpc @ 4ohms) monoblocks.
 
#310
The heatsinks as shown (not anodized) get pretty fricken hot. My AX chassis is about as big and at 250W the temp is around 55.
It should be good for an x160 clone, I think.
I would also advice to use perforated sheets for the top and bottom covers to let the stuff inside breathe. See the "cheff" post...
 
#314
Thanks Guys, I was thinking of a small intake fan at the bottom suing a temp sense circuit to control it's speed. I will Perforate the top as suggested.

See this link below if you want to see more pics of my work in progress. I am working on an awsome CD player you might find interesting. Will be posting more pics tonight.


Thanks

Anthony

http://24.70.80.252/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album04
 
#315
Instead of perfing the top, consider drilling small holes in the base of the heat sinks near the middle (of hieght) to exaust air through heat sinks and in effect give you forced air cooling rtheta numbers for the sinks.
That's what I did with my oversized Aleph 2. I haven't ran them with the case closed yet to see how much of a difference it makes, but It sounds good in theory.
The four holes on top and bottm row are for fets, The row in the middle is exaust holes, the thre and four on the sides are for turret terminals to hold busses.
 

Attachments

  • s_picture 009.jpg
    s_picture 009.jpg
    45.9 KB · Views: 1,157
#318
Brian Donaldson said:
Instead of perfing the top, consider drilling small holes in the base of the heat sinks near the middle (of hieght) to exaust air through heat sinks and in effect give you forced air cooling rtheta numbers for the sinks.
Click to expand...

You are joking, right? How did you come up with that idea?
You need LOTS of positive air flow to get forced air behavior, and flow needs to happen along the fins not across. I am not a fluid dynamic physicist but I have the feeling that the small holes do absolutely NOTHING at all.

For effective convection you needs lots of open space and constant air velocity.
 
#319
Regardless of direction, airflow will increase dissapation. If for no other reason, Because I'll have cool air between the fins rather than the 160 deg air that is there now.
But the real reason for the fans is to keep the inside (electrolyc caps) cool. Two slabs of 160 deg aluminum and 4 slabs of around 120 deg aluminum will yeild 130 - 140 deg caps.
After I get the case closed, I'll post real measured data and you can decide for yourself. My guess is I can drop sink temp 15 to 20 deg without enough added noise to be noticed.

Check out the R Theta website's r theta calculator. You could reason that rtheta should be proportional to size, but it's not because adjacent fins heat the air in the vacinity of their neighboring fins and decrease temp diff and adversly affect rtheta. But by moving fresh air in, you can reduce that effect.

Grataku,
You are correct that I won't aproach forced air r theta numbers, but I would wager that a small amount of forced airflow through the holes in the sinks will inprove cooling by 50%.

PS that's what I do when she's out of town visiting her family😉
 
#320
Hot air rises... so holes on the top cover too will help a lot to dissipate warm air to the amp's surroundings. Holes on the bottom plate will force some cold air into the box as the warm air rises. At least that's how I remember thermodynamics.

But if you're in TX during summer the noise of airconditioning will be louder than a fan:bawling:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom