delivery time
At the bottom of the price quote, it stated that delivery time is 4 weeks and it also depends on the material availability. I wonder how true are those statements and also considering that we have quite a lot to be ordered.
At the bottom of the price quote, it stated that delivery time is 4 weeks and it also depends on the material availability. I wonder how true are those statements and also considering that we have quite a lot to be ordered.
Ok,
from the wiki it looks like we are over 150 already. There are a few people that need to make up their mind, but it doesn't matter for now.
I think they will hardly have 150 pieces in stock so there will have to be some waiting.
As for shipping, USD 30 for 8 sinks doesn't seem too bad. I think it would be better if R-theta ships directly to the final destination and if people could deal directly with r-theta, the reason being LIABILITY. God forbid something should happen to the package, given the weight there is a high likelyhood, who's gonna pay for it? Heatsinks would have to be re-ordered from r-theta... I don't know, it seems to me that a middle man would not be helpful.
Double shipping would very likely be more expensive no matter what.
Anyways, just something to keep in mind.
from the wiki it looks like we are over 150 already. There are a few people that need to make up their mind, but it doesn't matter for now.
I think they will hardly have 150 pieces in stock so there will have to be some waiting.
As for shipping, USD 30 for 8 sinks doesn't seem too bad. I think it would be better if R-theta ships directly to the final destination and if people could deal directly with r-theta, the reason being LIABILITY. God forbid something should happen to the package, given the weight there is a high likelyhood, who's gonna pay for it? Heatsinks would have to be re-ordered from r-theta... I don't know, it seems to me that a middle man would not be helpful.
Double shipping would very likely be more expensive no matter what.
Anyways, just something to keep in mind.
grataku said:
Maybe my previous post wasn't clear enough. So once again, shipping charges:
4pcs - $60 CAD
8pcs - $100 CAD
Peter Daniel said:
For those in the us, here are the current prices in USD:
60.00 CAD = 38.4271 USD
100.00 CAD = 64.0451 USD
1 CAD = 0.640451 USD
1 USD = 1.56140 CAD
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Brian
Just to get the "feel" of what is the possibility of the heatsink getting damage while in transit, what is the weight of each heatsink anyway?
fcel said:
The datasheet says 11.85lb/ft, so assume that the heatsinks itself would weight in at 10.86lbs each. Then you have to account for packing materials for transit. I would assume that if the heatsinks are packed properly for shipment that there should not be any problems. I would hate to be the postal worker/package transit person, in charge of delivering 8 heatsinks...
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Brian
Two heatsinks on each side
Do you think it's feasible to use two of these heatsinks
on each without compromising the structural integrity
of the case?
Thanks,
Dennis
Do you think it's feasible to use two of these heatsinks
on each without compromising the structural integrity
of the case?
Thanks,
Dennis
L Channels or Bars
I am assuming that a lot of us will be cloning the looks of Peter's Aleph-X amp.
I'm wondering if Peter can show us where he got his L channels or bars (I know Chris Ma has brought this up before). Would it be silly to also do a group order on this? Of course we would have to agreed on the thickness of the front and back chassis plate so that the bars would fit nicely - so that the plates would be flush with the heatsinks.
If this is too much trouble, we could just use L brackets that we can get from Home Depot .... although we would have to use 8 L brackets instead of just 4 L bars for each monoblock .... which would also means too much drilling and tapping if we were to use L brackets.
I am assuming that a lot of us will be cloning the looks of Peter's Aleph-X amp.
I'm wondering if Peter can show us where he got his L channels or bars (I know Chris Ma has brought this up before). Would it be silly to also do a group order on this? Of course we would have to agreed on the thickness of the front and back chassis plate so that the bars would fit nicely - so that the plates would be flush with the heatsinks.
If this is too much trouble, we could just use L brackets that we can get from Home Depot .... although we would have to use 8 L brackets instead of just 4 L bars for each monoblock .... which would also means too much drilling and tapping if we were to use L brackets.
Re: Two heatsinks on each side
I made a chassis with 2 - 8"x9" heatsinks per side, and with the L brackets on top and bottom keeping the heatsinks together and the sides of the case, it is quite stable. Here is what I am referring to:
You should be able to do the same thing with the larger heatsinks with no problems.
More of my chassis pics at:
http://brian.darg.net/chassis
It is a very stable case. All aluminum is 1/8" thick 6061T5 (what metal supermarkets carries) It is very stable even without any top and bottom on it. The stability comes from the L brackets, and the front and back panels. I can stand on the chassis when it is put together, and it doesn't flex too much. For the screws, I tapped #10-24 holes for screwing all the L brackets to the heatsink.
--
Brian
Dennis Hui said:
I made a chassis with 2 - 8"x9" heatsinks per side, and with the L brackets on top and bottom keeping the heatsinks together and the sides of the case, it is quite stable. Here is what I am referring to:
You should be able to do the same thing with the larger heatsinks with no problems.
More of my chassis pics at:
http://brian.darg.net/chassis
It is a very stable case. All aluminum is 1/8" thick 6061T5 (what metal supermarkets carries) It is very stable even without any top and bottom on it. The stability comes from the L brackets, and the front and back panels. I can stand on the chassis when it is put together, and it doesn't flex too much. For the screws, I tapped #10-24 holes for screwing all the L brackets to the heatsink.
--
Brian
Attachments
Dennis,
I thought you were planning for frugile pile Aleph X. Two heatsinks per side will make a very big amp. I wouldn't recommend it, because you have to run a lot of long wires and connectionns inside. It's better to do two smaller amps and if you need more power, go bi-amp and stack them on top ea. other.
I thought you were planning for frugile pile Aleph X. Two heatsinks per side will make a very big amp. I wouldn't recommend it, because you have to run a lot of long wires and connectionns inside. It's better to do two smaller amps and if you need more power, go bi-amp and stack them on top ea. other.
Re: L Channels or Bars
Metal Supermarkets sells most aluminum stock that you would need. The sell bars, square stock, sheets and plates. They have stores all over the country, and sell by the pound, so there is no advantage of a pre-order. They sell it cut to size fairly close. I did my Aleph2/X chassis without having to recut the pieces.
And of course, Home Depot sells plenty of L brackets, as you mentioned.
As for the L bars, you can order normal bars from Metal Supermarkets, but the L bars would have to be machined from the normal bars, and would be quite expensive. I also don't think many people on this forum besides Nelson and Peter would be using TO-3 mosfets, due the lack of availability, so the L-bars wouldn't be much use. If you were using TO-247AC devices, you could just get away with using a normal bar. since you don't have to route out the wiring from the bottom of the devices.
--
Brian
fcel said:
Metal Supermarkets sells most aluminum stock that you would need. The sell bars, square stock, sheets and plates. They have stores all over the country, and sell by the pound, so there is no advantage of a pre-order. They sell it cut to size fairly close. I did my Aleph2/X chassis without having to recut the pieces.
And of course, Home Depot sells plenty of L brackets, as you mentioned.
As for the L bars, you can order normal bars from Metal Supermarkets, but the L bars would have to be machined from the normal bars, and would be quite expensive. I also don't think many people on this forum besides Nelson and Peter would be using TO-3 mosfets, due the lack of availability, so the L-bars wouldn't be much use. If you were using TO-247AC devices, you could just get away with using a normal bar. since you don't have to route out the wiring from the bottom of the devices.
--
Brian
I'll be doing quite a few of those amps and I was thinking about easy way to do it.
One possibility is to connect both heat sink sides with 4 square bars, (like pic below). This would easily make the chassis. All you need to finish the box are 4 cover pannels. Since recently wood became trendy😉 and pretty good looking (and possibly better sounding), one could do the panels out of quality wood and stain it. Much easier than aluminum and easier to finish as well. I would leave 1/8" gap between wood panels and heat sinks for ventilation. Wood could also be attached to bars with some sort of plasic spacers so less heat is transferred.
I would be looking for at least 1/2" thick wooden boards (HD has a nice selection). Maple would be on top of my list.
One possibility is to connect both heat sink sides with 4 square bars, (like pic below). This would easily make the chassis. All you need to finish the box are 4 cover pannels. Since recently wood became trendy😉 and pretty good looking (and possibly better sounding), one could do the panels out of quality wood and stain it. Much easier than aluminum and easier to finish as well. I would leave 1/8" gap between wood panels and heat sinks for ventilation. Wood could also be attached to bars with some sort of plasic spacers so less heat is transferred.
I would be looking for at least 1/2" thick wooden boards (HD has a nice selection). Maple would be on top of my list.
Attachments
A clarification .... it doesn't have to be L bars since most of us (I think) won't be using TO-3 mosfets. For myself, just a regular bar would be sufficient - the thickness of bar to be thick enough to drill #10 screws on it.
Now, if someone decides on all aluminum chassis, I don't recommend angles. It's better to use 3/4" x 1" solid bars. The main reason is that front and rear face of the bar makes the attachment surface for front and rear panels. Two bars per heat sink would be enough. My bars had to be milled, because I was using TO-3 type devices. With TO-247, they are not needed. devices are mounted directly to the sink.
One other thing to consider is a transformer. At least choosing a proper size and voltage. Canadian orders will use Plitron most likely, USA customers might go for VM. As always shipping is the major issue. And Plitron is in Toronto.😉
One other thing to consider is a transformer. At least choosing a proper size and voltage. Canadian orders will use Plitron most likely, USA customers might go for VM. As always shipping is the major issue. And Plitron is in Toronto.😉
fcel said:
I ordered some bars from Metal Supermarkets for my preamp chassis from Metal Supermarkets, and it came out to $9.60 each cut to size for a 1/2" thick by 4" wide x 12" long bar, which I am using them for the sides of my pre-amp chassis. They also had thicker ones.
I was considering mounting the devices directly to the heatsinks.
--
Brian
Oh yes, mosfet will be directly mounted on to the heatsinks. Bars are just for the structural integrity of the chassis.
Peter Daniel said:
I talked to John at Victoria Magnetics about transformers, and I got mine from him. It is possible to organize a group order of the transformers, and get a lower price, and then John deal with everyone seperately for ordering and shipping. He is quite willing to work on us for the custom transformers. His prices aren't too bad, considering the high quality and the custom nature of the transformers. I can make a seperate thread for this if people are interested.
--
Brian
BrianGT said:
The way things go now, I think the will be an interest in such a thread (but better check, someone started similar one before).
Peter Daniel said:
If the long wires have the same length port and starboard and they symmetrically run through the same magnetic field, what is the problem?
JH
Ask the guys from 47Laboratory. They claim the shortest signal path in their amp: only 35mm.😉
Maybe it's just me, but recently I try to make everything as compact as possible. I also like the purity and simplicity in design. Big chassis just doesn't allow it.
I have my amps standing on a floor right now. If I put them one behind the other, they would look ugly and big. If I put them one on top of the other, they look really cool.
Maybe it's just me, but recently I try to make everything as compact as possible. I also like the purity and simplicity in design. Big chassis just doesn't allow it.
I have my amps standing on a floor right now. If I put them one behind the other, they would look ugly and big. If I put them one on top of the other, they look really cool.
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