I enjoy my minimonitors; however, years ago in my country I had the opportunity to follow many hi-fi shows, now all missing and not because of pandemia (but this is another story) and I realized that all systems I found "more real" were based on speakers without a box, being ominidirectional or OB.
I could quickly reach nirvana buying MBL radialhstraler, but I need 50k€ at least, and 50k€ more for 1000watt monoblocks...
r
I could quickly reach nirvana buying MBL radialhstraler, but I need 50k€ at least, and 50k€ more for 1000watt monoblocks...
r
Noob questions
Well 3U/400 UMS and 3U Deluxe rear panel all look to be not an option. A plain flat - "No" according to the DIY audio store. I did the rough math and it would seem that 3U/400 has the same dissipation as 4U/300. In fact, it looks like that's the original dimensions of the production Aleph J per 6 moons circa 2006.
Frustrating. I know I know ... like the Gaye Bykers on Acid say, I could just drill my own hole. Unfortunately I don't have the tools or skill set. Let me tell you, these first world issues are a real pain in the keister. 🙄
Well 3U/400 UMS and 3U Deluxe rear panel all look to be not an option. A plain flat - "No" according to the DIY audio store. I did the rough math and it would seem that 3U/400 has the same dissipation as 4U/300. In fact, it looks like that's the original dimensions of the production Aleph J per 6 moons circa 2006.
Frustrating. I know I know ... like the Gaye Bykers on Acid say, I could just drill my own hole. Unfortunately I don't have the tools or skill set. Let me tell you, these first world issues are a real pain in the keister. 🙄
by logic, 3U/400 must be better than 4U/300
not much, but we are nitpicking here .......... and it's certainly not the other way
not much, but we are nitpicking here .......... and it's certainly not the other way
Stocked up on Papas Toshiba JFETs or is he still sending gifts to postpone adoption?
I considered 5U/500. But WAF lacks in my living room, so… for now a no-go. Not all of us have aquantances with WW2 sinks 😀
I considered 5U/500. But WAF lacks in my living room, so… for now a no-go. Not all of us have aquantances with WW2 sinks 😀
ZM,
I have a question for you. In your version of the Aleph J Zen (as built by Peppennino and others), is it necessary that C1 be used or can I link it out?
Let's assume I have matched LSJ74's AND I am using balanced outputs from a dac that has a DC offset of 0mV.
Thank you!
Anand.
I have a question for you. In your version of the Aleph J Zen (as built by Peppennino and others), is it necessary that C1 be used or can I link it out?
Let's assume I have matched LSJ74's AND I am using balanced outputs from a dac that has a DC offset of 0mV.
Thank you!
Anand.
JZen is the real Volksamp 
My DAC has servoDC, the phono preamp has a cap at output, but the B1R2 has trimmers regulated by Peppennino, so I let the cap in his place 😀
My DAC has servoDC, the phono preamp has a cap at output, but the B1R2 has trimmers regulated by Peppennino, so I let the cap in his place 😀
just short it
damn, how many of these 6L6 sent abroad ?
Awesome! Will do!
Capacitors can impart a sound signature so I try hard to eliminate them when I can…
Best,
Anand.
Aleph frustration
I have built the aleph j and one channel works fine but the other does nothing but has 23 volts dc on output, R27 and R7 no effect and zero current through any mosfet. Re-checked all resistors and caps. All exactly on spec. Pulled connected resistors and checked all transistors — all are fine. Went over circuit board with magnifying glass, re-soldered every connection. Nothing I do has any effect. Any ideas? is it true mosfets have to be matched to work? Mine are not. could that be the problem? note: I replaced jumpers with ten ohm resistors to combat oscillation. It worked in the other channel.
I have built the aleph j and one channel works fine but the other does nothing but has 23 volts dc on output, R27 and R7 no effect and zero current through any mosfet. Re-checked all resistors and caps. All exactly on spec. Pulled connected resistors and checked all transistors — all are fine. Went over circuit board with magnifying glass, re-soldered every connection. Nothing I do has any effect. Any ideas? is it true mosfets have to be matched to work? Mine are not. could that be the problem? note: I replaced jumpers with ten ohm resistors to combat oscillation. It worked in the other channel.
1: did you check your JFETs?
2: The J needs matched pairs of 240’s. 1 pair per channel for CCS, 1 pair for each OS.
3: You sure there is no current or heat through all MOSFETs? What polarity does the DC on the output have? Could it be that one of your CCS MOSFETs is dead? Just a thought… you prolly need help from bigger Boyz
Cheers,
Andy
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This happened to me on my first Aleph build and it turned out to be a bad JFET. Worth checking them..
MOSFETs need DC voltage between the gate and source pins to get the faucet (current) turned on, like say maybe ~4 volts or so. I would use this knowledge to help narrow down where the problem is. Which set of MOSFETs, upper or lower, is not getting turned on? A problem in the front end circuit will affect the lower set, such as a damaged JFET due to accidental overheating during assembly or zapped with ESD, or maybe the parts are fake.....as examples. R7 is the faucet handle there for the lower MOSFETs. When the current through that guy (R7) is proper we are able to vary that resistance a bit with the pot to get the desired DC (thanks to Ohm's law) mentioned in the first sentence I wrote.
We use matched devices so that the current is shared amongst the parts, otherwise it's possible to have a situation where one device is doing most of the work, and the other (or others) are loafing along doing very little. We don't want that.
We use matched devices so that the current is shared amongst the parts, otherwise it's possible to have a situation where one device is doing most of the work, and the other (or others) are loafing along doing very little. We don't want that.