An easy way to test if there’s a cold joint is turn it on, connect a voltmeter to the output and start poking/flexing the PCB/components a little. If you see the offset make a big jump back towards neutral, you have a suspect connection near where you were poking.
I had that exact issue on my first Aleph. It’s a very DC coupled amp, so if something is not connected the rest of the circuit is effected.
I had that exact issue on my first Aleph. It’s a very DC coupled amp, so if something is not connected the rest of the circuit is effected.
I think what happens with some of these higher quality boards with 2 oz copper is that more heat/time is required with the soldering iron. I also strongly recommend the use of flux for every single soldering joint, period. Check the boards on both the top and bottom faces to make sure the joint is fully covered with solder. I usually wash my boards intermittently with Flux Off (No Clean Plus) and dab it with Kimwipes so I can see the quality of the joint. If the board and solder joints don't appear to have a mirror finish you may miss a cold joint somewhere (which becomes a headache).
Using a soldering iron with a feedback mechanism to keep the temp at 750 deg F (~400 degrees C) is a good idea. I use a Hakko FX-951. It's so worth it compared to my earlier Hakko 936. I have a number of tips which I can switch on the fly and the iron automatically knows and adjusts the feedback mechanism and gets the tip temp back up to 750 deg F (or wherever I set it to).
Best,
Anand.
Using a soldering iron with a feedback mechanism to keep the temp at 750 deg F (~400 degrees C) is a good idea. I use a Hakko FX-951. It's so worth it compared to my earlier Hakko 936. I have a number of tips which I can switch on the fly and the iron automatically knows and adjusts the feedback mechanism and gets the tip temp back up to 750 deg F (or wherever I set it to).
Best,
Anand.
I think what happens with some of these higher quality boards with 2 oz copper is that more heat/time is required with the soldering iron. I also strongly recommend the use of flux for every single soldering joint, period. Check the boards on both the top and bottom faces to make sure the joint is fully covered with solder. I usually wash my boards intermittently with Flux Off (No Clean Plus) and dab it with Kimwipes so I can see the quality of the joint. If the board and solder joints don't appear to have a mirror finish you may miss a cold joint somewhere (which becomes a headache).
Using a soldering iron with a feedback mechanism to keep the temp at 750 deg F (~400 degrees C) is a good idea. I use a Hakko FX-951. It's so worth it compared to my earlier Hakko 936. I have a number of tips which I can switch on the fly and the iron automatically knows and adjusts the feedback mechanism and gets the tip temp back up to 750 deg F (or wherever I set it to).
Best,
Anand.
And if you watch the joint very closely you can see the pool of solder suddenly shrink a bit when there's enough heat to wick it to the other side of the board. At that point the joint is done.
Cheers,
Jeff.
And if you watch the joint very closely you can see the pool of solder suddenly shrink a bit when there's enough heat to wick it to the other side of the board. At that point the joint is done.
Cheers,
Jeff.
This tip is especially useful when when one does not have access to the top side of the PCB to check solder joint integrity.
When installing snap in capacitors, for instance.
Exceptional sound
Spent 3 days making this amp. The words can not describe how good this amp sounds...
Spent 3 days making this amp. The words can not describe how good this amp sounds...
Attachments
... and the PCB's
... lot No 1
... lot No 1
Attachments
... and the PCB's
lot No 2
lot No 2
Attachments
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- Aleph J illustrated build guide