Here’s what I get for the populated equation: 1/(2*3.14*2*22100). The answer I get is .0000036, which would be in Farads? Looks like I messed something up.
Low pass filter:
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Strange - time travel. I posted after I read Soundhappy's post and yet here it is.
Low Pass Filter Calculator
Strange - time travel. I posted after I read Soundhappy's post and yet here it is.
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What is the formula calculation source to verify ? Electronic book source name ?
I made 3 capacitors changes and Wima was surprisly back and my winner , nice clean sound.
I don't try so many others types and brands..
After my humble Aleph J experiments is work good with very low distortions source and preamplifier,
a practical audio transparency lesson for me 🙂
I made 3 capacitors changes and Wima was surprisly back and my winner , nice clean sound.
I don't try so many others types and brands..
After my humble Aleph J experiments is work good with very low distortions source and preamplifier,
a practical audio transparency lesson for me 🙂
0.001 = 1 milli
0.000 001 = 1 micro
0.000 000 001 = 1 nano
0.000 000 000 001 = 1 pico
Thanks Ben, just what I needed!
Low pass filter:
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Strange - time travel. I posted after I read Soundhappy's post and yet here it is.
Whoops, should have been high pass filter:
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Looking at C1 is that just a twisted pair woven through a few holes?. Thanks
I think Extreme_Boky uses flat strips of silver (often doubled and soldered) which he twists (probably to create fairly stable routing, like solid wire). Check out photos of the insides of his amp(s), in some, they're everywhere, but not in his Aleph J.
I think I'll leave well enough alone in this case. I probably couldn't hear a difference anyway.
Yes. I used Teflon (tm) coated "wire wrap" wire twisted.
so it's a Teflon cap!
I was mistakenly referring to C5.
You guys are very polite about pointing that out.
😉
It's supposed to be 5pF, so what, something like 5m of teflon coated wire...anybody have a photo of this mystery cap? 😉
Good for those who hate caps, "what cap, that's just wire."
Good for those who hate caps, "what cap, that's just wire."
Mr Pass mentioned the procedure he used, I can't remember where...
He used 2 electronic breadboards Teflon insulated thin solid core copper wires, twisted together. Then he trimmed them to an appropriate length by looking at the square wawes at highish frequencies, to obtain minimal overshoots/undershoots. I'd expect he loaded the amplifier output as well while trimming the twisted pair... I think the final length was something like 5-7cm... but the amount of twist would be at play here as well.
From my personal experience, the mica caps are really bad-sounding capacitors; the styrene caps would be much better suited - but it is not easy to find styrenes in 5pF value.
He used 2 electronic breadboards Teflon insulated thin solid core copper wires, twisted together. Then he trimmed them to an appropriate length by looking at the square wawes at highish frequencies, to obtain minimal overshoots/undershoots. I'd expect he loaded the amplifier output as well while trimming the twisted pair... I think the final length was something like 5-7cm... but the amount of twist would be at play here as well.
From my personal experience, the mica caps are really bad-sounding capacitors; the styrene caps would be much better suited - but it is not easy to find styrenes in 5pF value.
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Extreme_Boky - How do you feel about your mods (C1 shorted, short circuit removed) being paired with the soft start and DC protection boards. I would be looking to using balanced inputs to be sure.
Otherwise sounds like you've achieved something that brings you great satisfaction and hopefully a wide smile!
Otherwise sounds like you've achieved something that brings you great satisfaction and hopefully a wide smile!
There were a few little tweaks that I did to the amplifier. The orientation of PCBs is such to allow for very short DC wiring between power supply PCB and amp PCBs. In addition, the mains voltage wiring length (together with C60 in there) is like 15cm only... I also used few Black Gate capacitors to tune the sound to my liking, I've been using these for like 3 decades (was getting them straight from the Takeda Machinery in Japan) and I am pretty familiar with how to use each cap type (C, FK, N) and where to put them.
Removing the C1 produced the greatest results: more separation of everything, bigger sound stage, the amp sounded faster and especially this one: much better bass response, drive and grip at low frequencies. I have recently acquired Holo May DAC ... and all I can say is that the overall sound I'm getting from this combination is pure bliss.
You have to be careful, though - there's around 250mV of DC offset when the amp is cold. This settles pretty quickly to around + and - 10mV only, within the first 10 minutes of use. If the preamp output stage is DC coupled (no sound coupling capacitors), you should leave C1 in there.
Removing the C1 produced the greatest results: more separation of everything, bigger sound stage, the amp sounded faster and especially this one: much better bass response, drive and grip at low frequencies. I have recently acquired Holo May DAC ... and all I can say is that the overall sound I'm getting from this combination is pure bliss.
You have to be careful, though - there's around 250mV of DC offset when the amp is cold. This settles pretty quickly to around + and - 10mV only, within the first 10 minutes of use. If the preamp output stage is DC coupled (no sound coupling capacitors), you should leave C1 in there.
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It's not such a problem eliminating C1, the thump isn't bad, and 250 mV initial
offset is no big deal. Probably find yourself trimming it every couple years....

offset is no big deal. Probably find yourself trimming it every couple years....

Hi, I have tried different capacitors for c1. I like Jupiter copper foil the most, but I agree that no capacitor is best.
I also have 250mv offset at start-up and it drops to below 10mv after 20-30 minutes.
I have a little turn of thumps but I'm a litle worried with my Cube Audio FC8 drivers. Will it be more thumps without capacitors?
Cube Audio wrote me "If it's 2-3 mm that's fine. The most dangerous is for the voice coil. The wire is 0.13mm in thickness and it can be damaged during high power peaks"
I believe I have more like 6-7 mm (I don't know how to measure this actually)
To remove turn of thumps I consider buying a pair of Guardian 86 speaker protection. Do you think it will be a good solution's or maybe it will degrade sound?
Guardian-86: High-End Speaker Protection Circuit for use in DIY Amps – Neurochrome
I also have 250mv offset at start-up and it drops to below 10mv after 20-30 minutes.
I have a little turn of thumps but I'm a litle worried with my Cube Audio FC8 drivers. Will it be more thumps without capacitors?
Cube Audio wrote me "If it's 2-3 mm that's fine. The most dangerous is for the voice coil. The wire is 0.13mm in thickness and it can be damaged during high power peaks"
I believe I have more like 6-7 mm (I don't know how to measure this actually)
To remove turn of thumps I consider buying a pair of Guardian 86 speaker protection. Do you think it will be a good solution's or maybe it will degrade sound?
Guardian-86: High-End Speaker Protection Circuit for use in DIY Amps – Neurochrome
go for it
better any than none
though, ppl are using Alephs with, say, Lowthers for years, with no damage
250mV is nothing, if not abrupt
better any than none
though, ppl are using Alephs with, say, Lowthers for years, with no damage
250mV is nothing, if not abrupt
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