The horn in 1v1 is longer than 1v0 so needs to be deeper. 1v0 was very quickly upgraded. 5" internal is correct.
The bottom mouth is intended to be at the floor. If you want the driver aiming at your head, it doesn't take much of a spacer under the front to do jst that -- or it can even be built in by angling the bottom piece (if you use a single piece deflector instead of steps). Driver height was never an issue with our build, althou it is on a bit of a plinth with spikes/feet.
dave
The bottom mouth is intended to be at the floor. If you want the driver aiming at your head, it doesn't take much of a spacer under the front to do jst that -- or it can even be built in by angling the bottom piece (if you use a single piece deflector instead of steps). Driver height was never an issue with our build, althou it is on a bit of a plinth with spikes/feet.
dave
901Fixer said:
The drawings that I used for my build were at 325mm (12.75")
yup
Well, FWIW, I think that "ideal" driver mounting height isn't as much of a concern with the vertical dispersion and imaging characteristics of any of these tall double mouth designs.
Heck, y'all don't hear (surviving) Horn owners complaining about that 😉 , but your idea of a pair of side firing woofers serving as stands probably couldn't hurt either.
Indeed. You'll loose out a little on the floor-coupling though, which will increase passband ripple a bit. Probably not enough to loose any sleep over. As Chris said, within reason, driver height with these double-mouth designs is not as critical as in a single-mouth layout.
planet10 said:
Angling the bottom sounds like a good idea to me, is there an optimal amount of angle or does it just depend on listening distance, room size etc. ?
Would there be any issues with placing a pair of side firing push-push subs directly behind each them? The sub box would be a few inches wider than the Aiko is.
901Fixer said:
To determine tilt-back, i do a geometric study based on the driver height and the listener position. A little tilt-back goes a long ways. Typically 3-6 degrees does the job.
No problem building push-push woofers into the back. With a tilt-back, and an angle of back-panel extending the opposite direction, almost any volume could be accomodated. Aiko might be a bit skinny to fit 2 drivers push-push in the same width. For one of our next experiments (push-push silver flute woofs with FF85KeN or Alpair 5/6) we will likely stagger the drivers.
dave
I figured the sub box would need to be wider than the narrow Aiko but I had not thought of staggering the drivers, will this give up some of the advantages of a traditional push-push or is it negligible? I plan to use all of the bracing techniques I've seen here to make it uber-rigid.
It may be more usable if the sub is not integral with the Aiko not to mention more wood efficient as a bump on the back would make the side panel too wide to get 4 out of a 5' x 5'. However you always seem to come up with something I had not envisioned. Is there any benefit to having a sub in the same cabinet?
It may be more usable if the sub is not integral with the Aiko not to mention more wood efficient as a bump on the back would make the side panel too wide to get 4 out of a 5' x 5'. However you always seem to come up with something I had not envisioned. Is there any benefit to having a sub in the same cabinet?
901Fixer said:
You do give up something... but i figure it won't be so much as not to make it worthwhile to keep a narrow cabinet. The cabinet walls will have to be tied together tightly to act as the tranition path.
Having the sub(s) separate has sonic advatages, primarily 1/ no mechaical coupling between cabinets and the opportunity for better placement.
dave
How is mechanical coupling between cabinets bad? Forgive me, I'm still in the learning phase of my DIYAudio trek.
I got a great deal on 4 TangBand W6-1139SI from a member here. I'm gonna make two sub boxes with a pair of drivers push-push in each. I haven't decided to just go sealed or vented yet, either way they will be pretty small.
I had planned to go with 4 SDX7's but I'll have to wait until I can get a Planet10 eNabled set to do it correctly.
I had planned to go with 4 SDX7's but I'll have to wait until I can get a Planet10 eNabled set to do it correctly.
Thanks for the link. Ironically late last night I found a thread on PE that gave me a link to the VolvoTreter site and I read up on the TappedHorn designs. That looks like the TangBand 30hz horn. I also saw that pic here on the TappedHorn thread prior to my purchase and had forgotten about it.
What does the TappedHorn design do for a driver? More SPL, greater range? Would it be as clean and musical as a sealed box? My priority is for it to match well with the Aiko. Would one of these enough.
There is a smaller more compact enclosure, TangBand 38hz folded horn, I am more interested in on that site. For music with no HT would that be low enough?
What other speakers do you plan to match your TappedHorn up with?
What does the TappedHorn design do for a driver? More SPL, greater range? Would it be as clean and musical as a sealed box? My priority is for it to match well with the Aiko. Would one of these enough.
There is a smaller more compact enclosure, TangBand 38hz folded horn, I am more interested in on that site. For music with no HT would that be low enough?
What other speakers do you plan to match your TappedHorn up with?
Hey Fixer,
There is a massive thread here on the Tapped Horns, I got about halfway thru 😀 It was enough to make me give it a try (I have a backup plan for one of Mr Cowan's jr Horns if I dont like the TH).
I am building a pair of Mikasa Spawns for my mains, centre channel is proving more difficult ATM, but I live in hope.
Best of luck with your build.
Charles
There is a massive thread here on the Tapped Horns, I got about halfway thru 😀 It was enough to make me give it a try (I have a backup plan for one of Mr Cowan's jr Horns if I dont like the TH).
I am building a pair of Mikasa Spawns for my mains, centre channel is proving more difficult ATM, but I live in hope.
Best of luck with your build.
Charles
planet10 said:
To accomplish the tilt-back I suppose making the front panel a little longer at the bottom is the way to go and not shorten the back.
When staggering the woofers in a narrow push-push will you try to keep them as close together as possible or does just being on opposite panels have much the same effect?
901Fixer said:
What front panel? you can also get away with different height feet front & rear.
Yes, as close togther as practical.
dave
901Fixer said:
I've not followed the tapped horns, but isn't one of the compromises needed to get the staggering bass out of them, is that they have a fair amount of ripple,
To get a good blend, i like a woofer that goes up smoothly quite high.
dave
Not automatically. A good one should be able to operate over ~3 octaves. Still, if it bothers you, a TL might suit you better.
My Tang Band arrived today (4 days from the US - not bad at all) so with some luck I might be able to put together either the 30 or 38Hz boxes this weekend. There was much discussion in the main TH thread about the spikes being far kinder in real life that HornResp shows in its simulations - but all I can do is try one and see. 😀
The size is certainly more WAF friendly than the Horn Jr (even if I run two of them) so I guess that has to be factored in too. My current 12" BLH mains are good to below 100 so I will try keeping the 80hz setting on the XO and swap the TH in place of the BR sub that masquerades (not very convincingly) as a coffee table.
C
The size is certainly more WAF friendly than the Horn Jr (even if I run two of them) so I guess that has to be factored in too. My current 12" BLH mains are good to below 100 so I will try keeping the 80hz setting on the XO and swap the TH in place of the BR sub that masquerades (not very convincingly) as a coffee table.
C
planet10 said:
Not the front panel rather the front edge. I was just thinking it a good idea to keep the lower mouth as close to the floor as possible. Tilting it back would raise the lower edge up off the floor but if I cut the sides to include a 3* tilt back it would keep the lower edge of the mouth closer to the floor. Then I could use different feet as necessary to fine tune.
planet10 said:
What options are there for that, sealed? I may make two TH's and a single 25liter sealed push-push.
Another thing that struck me was the lack of bracing in the TH's I've seen, especially compared to smaller simpler boxes that don't have nearly the spans. I'll use BB and try to add some bracing.
Bluerex said:
Awesome, we expect a full report by Sunday night or early Monday morning at the latest.
😀
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