Yes indeed it's a good old goodie with alloy instead of steel and alnico not ferrite. Not as burly as our Advents though.
Maybe this is where we need to borrow from the Dq-10 ...that is the Advent always needed a midrange ...how about the Philips 50560!...someone in this forum should able to cobble this together.
Dahlquist did that in the DQ-20 a 3 way with ScanSpeak mid and tweet. No more 5 way thank you very much. My next Advent related project and no I will not attempt to make it a DQ-20i that would be for folks with platinum ears and big wallets for fancy caps...
I'm a person of the land. I enjoy making what I have a bit better. Sometimes I wreck it by laying on too many tweaks but the thrift stores keep offering up fresh opportunities. No A-25s lately though. Too many trolls getting there first.
I'm a person of the land. I enjoy making what I have a bit better. Sometimes I wreck it by laying on too many tweaks but the thrift stores keep offering up fresh opportunities. No A-25s lately though. Too many trolls getting there first.
If you want to 'take the tweeter down', then I suggest an econowave mod. Yeah, it will no longer be an advent, but Zilch's elegant Ewave concept has now been done thousand's of times by happy DIY'rs. Visit AK.org speaker site for details. Many E-waves were done on Advents. I'm sure you'll find the details there.
IMO, the OP should start with a recap, evaluate then decide if anything more is needed.
IMO, the OP should start with a recap, evaluate then decide if anything more is needed.
Maybe this is where we need to borrow from the Dq-10 ...that is the Advent always needed a midrange ...how about the Philips 50560!...someone in this forum should able to cobble this together.
The reason I suggested the above is that I used to have the Advents and the DQ-10s at the same time. The Advents had a better top end IMHO but the lower midrange was fuzzy and I believe that a good midrange cone crossed over to the orange tweeter would be😀
Well as a mechanic I think basket damping comes before recapping but I'm just a carpenter. And I'm ready to Ewave cause once I hear a problem that won't go away it's time for another approach. You really want to send me back to AK? Some of those guys are dumber than me.
Well I gotta say I'm really disappointed with the response here. If anyone is serious about a better crossover for the Large Advent, I think I'd try something like the below , which ought to be an improvement. The 3.9uF is a bit suck it and see. 3.3uF or 4.7uf might be better.
Seems like I do all the REAL work, while you guys just blow smoke. 😀
Seems like I do all the REAL work, while you guys just blow smoke. 😀
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Well as a mechanic I think basket damping comes before recapping but I'm just a carpenter. And I'm ready to Ewave cause once I hear a problem that won't go away it's time for another approach. You really want to send me back to AK? Some of those guys are dumber than me.
Yeah, there's much good stuff to mine at AK if you can get past the "What a scroe I made today" posters. Zilch was a pretty smart guy. Just search the econowave thread. It's humungus, bit I do recall a number of Advent e-waves being discussed and Zilch (R.I.P.) helping when he could.
Well I gotta say I'm really disappointed with the response here. If anyone is serious about a better crossover for the Large Advent, I think I'd try something like the below , which ought to be an improvement. The 3.9uF is a bit suck it and see. 3.3uF or 4.7uf might be better.
Seems like I do all the REAL work, while you guys just blow smoke. 😀
Please feel free to not contribute then. No one is forcing you to.
Posting schematics without actual driver measurements isn't much better since it's still a guessing game in my opinion.
Yeah, there's much good stuff to mine at AK if you can get past the "What a scroe I made today" posters. Zilch was a pretty smart guy. Just search the econowave thread. It's humungus, bit I do recall a number of Advent e-waves being discussed and Zilch (R.I.P.) helping when he could.
Yes there is a lot of good info at AK. It's not a lot different than this website as they have technical and silly posts too. I learned quite a lot reading the tuner and receiver threads there.
So you mean just replace the 3.9uf to 4.7 is all I need? I don't wanna do this e-wave thing I'm not a good remodeler. I'm just enjoying and listening to a 70 year old horn that enough for me. I check the foam of the speaker and it's look like new maybe the first owner did change it.Well I gotta say I'm really disappointed with the response here. If anyone is serious about a better crossover for the Large Advent, I think I'd try something like the below , which ought to be an improvement. The 3.9uF is a bit suck it and see. 3.3uF or 4.7uf might be better.
Seems like I do all the REAL work, while you guys just blow smoke. 😀
Ann
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Seems like I do all the REAL work, while you guys just blow smoke. 😀
Hi,
Well nobody can beat you for suggestions based
on not enough information to make any sense.
Some of us simply won't do that, we know we can't.
Real work or blowing smoke ? More the latter IMO.
rgds, sreten.
Thanks Steve I'll give it a go. Sreten, is that a contribution or something else??
PS I no longer smoke anything whatsoever
PS I no longer smoke anything whatsoever
I have to agree with Sreten at times. Just making suggestions based upon guesswork isn't much help.
According to this link
Advent Tweeter Comparison - Advent - The Classic Speaker Pages Discussion Forums
the original fried egg tweeter has Fs=670 Hz and Re=3.1 ohm.
Steve's crossover is based on the Visaton TW70, which has Fs=1500 Hz and Re=7 ohm.
Any similarity between the two tweeters is purely coincidental.😀
There are several versions of the original crossover:
The Large Advent Crossover Networks
Advent Tweeter Comparison - Advent - The Classic Speaker Pages Discussion Forums
the original fried egg tweeter has Fs=670 Hz and Re=3.1 ohm.
Steve's crossover is based on the Visaton TW70, which has Fs=1500 Hz and Re=7 ohm.
Any similarity between the two tweeters is purely coincidental.😀
There are several versions of the original crossover:
The Large Advent Crossover Networks
Why did no-one tell me it was a 4 ohm tweeter? Thanks Dissi. I can do better now. 😀
Seems to me the Advent is essentially first order tweeter at 8uF and 0.8mH.
We can do something more like the second order Wharfedale Linton here, which was 8.2uF and 0.18mH.
I have added a small resister to keep impedance above 4 ohms, and there may be more level adjustment to do. But this looks worth trying. It gives the tweeter an easier ride.
Seems to me the Advent is essentially first order tweeter at 8uF and 0.8mH.
We can do something more like the second order Wharfedale Linton here, which was 8.2uF and 0.18mH.
I have added a small resister to keep impedance above 4 ohms, and there may be more level adjustment to do. But this looks worth trying. It gives the tweeter an easier ride.
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Since I always enjoy talking to Dissi, here's an interesting small speaker. It's a 4 ohm Bang and Olufsen Beovox 2702 which I used to have many years ago.
That's a classic old SEAS H087 large soft dome tweeter (also used in the Dynaco A25) and a 6" paper bass with foamed surround.
Hard to read that crossover, but I think it's 1mH/2.2R + 25uF bass and 1R and 8uF/0.26mH tweeter.
Very handsome small speaker with the grille on. Sounded good too. B&O always used good drivers. SEAS and Celestion mainly.
That's a classic old SEAS H087 large soft dome tweeter (also used in the Dynaco A25) and a 6" paper bass with foamed surround.
Hard to read that crossover, but I think it's 1mH/2.2R + 25uF bass and 1R and 8uF/0.26mH tweeter.
Very handsome small speaker with the grille on. Sounded good too. B&O always used good drivers. SEAS and Celestion mainly.
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My original Advent tweeter, dated 1971, with no screen, measures 950 Hz. Maybe the paper is getting brittle over time?
Can we move along a bit faster please. I'm getting bored! What is your measured tweeter DC resistance? How do they sound? Which filter do you have? 😀My original Advent tweeter, dated 1971, with no screen, measures 950 Hz. Maybe the paper is getting brittle over time?
Don't be scared of the usual vultures hanging over this forum with their unconstructive criticisms. They never try anything at all for fear of being wrong. The main thing is to try stuff and tweak later.
Here's a 3kHz 4 ohm crossover awaiting some tweeter attenuation that gives insight: HW 2/70 NG - 4 Ohm
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