My Luxman PD 289 arm drops 1/2" outside the edge of the record. It did it all of a sudden. I have the manual from Vinyl-Engine. Can't make sense of it. I have made small adjustments before but something must have come loose.
Fixed for the moment!!!
I must have left the turntable half way through a start cycle, and the brush that drives the arm was deformed and took a set. I put small shrink tubing over the base of the bristles to give it a bit more stiffness. I'll let you know if it fails.
I must have left the turntable half way through a start cycle, and the brush that drives the arm was deformed and took a set. I put small shrink tubing over the base of the bristles to give it a bit more stiffness. I'll let you know if it fails.
Hi Freddymac, its been a while since you posted this, but I am having the same problem with my pd-288 and I am desperate. Did you manage to solve this problem?
Br, Thomas
Br, Thomas
I have adjusted the drop point. You first have to check the condition of the plastic soft bristles that actually swing the arm into position. It may have been bent out of shape. Do you know what I am talking about, vinylengine has the manual but you have to join to get it.
Hi! thanks for replying. Yes, I do. I also have the manual from VE. I would say about 80% of the bristles are straight, while the rest is bent at about 45 degrees. I recently joined VE and made a new thread about it there as well. So, should I just put some shrinking tube over the brush?
You must be very careful because of all the plastic parts around the point that you are trying to shrink. You also have to round off the shrink end so there is no corner or catch point. You can do this adjustment just the way the bent now but shrink seems to make it more reliable when positioning arm.
The adjust screws will move arm position to a certain point, if it is not enough, you have to loosen the linkage screws to push the arm more or less. It ia a pain to do and it is better if you have the table raised with the bottom off so you see the change in arm movement.
Be sure that the screws on all the links are allowing slop in the linkage, where when you position the arm stopping the cam motor by removing the plug to kill power. A little movement translates to unreliable drop position. Does the arm pickup at end of record?
If you make big adjustments to arm linkage you may have to reset the piclup photocell window or it will just stay on the record ay the end of play.
These are fine adjustments and you must be careful. Take good pictures of everything before you tear into it. You may not believe it but this is a pretty good TT when setup right.
The adjust screws will move arm position to a certain point, if it is not enough, you have to loosen the linkage screws to push the arm more or less. It ia a pain to do and it is better if you have the table raised with the bottom off so you see the change in arm movement.
Be sure that the screws on all the links are allowing slop in the linkage, where when you position the arm stopping the cam motor by removing the plug to kill power. A little movement translates to unreliable drop position. Does the arm pickup at end of record?
If you make big adjustments to arm linkage you may have to reset the piclup photocell window or it will just stay on the record ay the end of play.
These are fine adjustments and you must be careful. Take good pictures of everything before you tear into it. You may not believe it but this is a pretty good TT when setup right.
Freddymac,
Thanks again. I have some questions I want to ask before I try anything. Better safe than sorry. I hope you can bear with me.
"You must be very careful because of all the plastic parts around the point that you are trying to shrink. You also have to round off the shrink end so there is no corner or catch point. You can do this adjustment just the way the bent now but shrink seems to make it more reliable when positioning arm."
-Ok, got it. This is a neat trick, by the way.
"The adjust screws will move arm position to a certain point, if it is not enough, you have to loosen the linkage screws to push the arm more or less. It ia a pain to do and it is better if you have the table raised with the bottom off so you see the change in arm movement."
-By adjust screws, do you mean what is referred to as eccentric pins in the PD288/PD289 service manual? Two screws, one for 33 and one for 45, apparently for adjusting lead in that when turned moves around instead of up and down?
-Sorry, if I am being stupid, but what are the linkage screws?
"Be sure that the screws on all the links are allowing slop in the linkage, where when you position the arm stopping the cam motor by removing the plug to kill power."
-Again, I dont understand this arm linkage part, could you please try to explain again for dummies? This is my first turntable, so I am unfortunately not a very experienced turntable technician.
A little movement translates to unreliable drop position. Does the arm pickup at end of record?
-No, not yet. I thought I should try to adjust lead in first. I can always use the cut button. What I want to avoid is having to place the needle manually. As I understand, this is bad for the cantilever suspension. To get the arm to pickup at the end, I adjust from the top right? Loosen left hand screw, and adjust with right hand screw and when finished tighten the left hand screw again?
If you make big adjustments to arm linkage you may have to reset the piclup photocell window or it will just stay on the record ay the end of play."
-Ok. Do you know how the photocell can be reset, in case I need to do that?
"These are fine adjustments and you must be careful. Take good pictures of everything before you tear into it. You may not believe it but this is a pretty good TT when setup right."
-I will, thanks. I really appreciate your help in this. When it is up and running, I intend to post everything I learned so that others with this turntable may benefit.
Thanks again. I have some questions I want to ask before I try anything. Better safe than sorry. I hope you can bear with me.
"You must be very careful because of all the plastic parts around the point that you are trying to shrink. You also have to round off the shrink end so there is no corner or catch point. You can do this adjustment just the way the bent now but shrink seems to make it more reliable when positioning arm."
-Ok, got it. This is a neat trick, by the way.
"The adjust screws will move arm position to a certain point, if it is not enough, you have to loosen the linkage screws to push the arm more or less. It ia a pain to do and it is better if you have the table raised with the bottom off so you see the change in arm movement."
-By adjust screws, do you mean what is referred to as eccentric pins in the PD288/PD289 service manual? Two screws, one for 33 and one for 45, apparently for adjusting lead in that when turned moves around instead of up and down?
-Sorry, if I am being stupid, but what are the linkage screws?
"Be sure that the screws on all the links are allowing slop in the linkage, where when you position the arm stopping the cam motor by removing the plug to kill power."
-Again, I dont understand this arm linkage part, could you please try to explain again for dummies? This is my first turntable, so I am unfortunately not a very experienced turntable technician.
A little movement translates to unreliable drop position. Does the arm pickup at end of record?
-No, not yet. I thought I should try to adjust lead in first. I can always use the cut button. What I want to avoid is having to place the needle manually. As I understand, this is bad for the cantilever suspension. To get the arm to pickup at the end, I adjust from the top right? Loosen left hand screw, and adjust with right hand screw and when finished tighten the left hand screw again?
If you make big adjustments to arm linkage you may have to reset the piclup photocell window or it will just stay on the record ay the end of play."
-Ok. Do you know how the photocell can be reset, in case I need to do that?
"These are fine adjustments and you must be careful. Take good pictures of everything before you tear into it. You may not believe it but this is a pretty good TT when setup right."
-I will, thanks. I really appreciate your help in this. When it is up and running, I intend to post everything I learned so that others with this turntable may benefit.
Yes the adjust screws only have a small range. You must verify that when the arm is being positioned by the that plastic brush there isn't any wiggle between what the brush is pushing and the arm. If this is your problem you don't have to adjust anything. FIND the LOOSE screw or link allowing the random movement.
The PHOTOCELL is the last thing you would adjust, it is in the instructions.
The cut button will not work to stop the arm cam cycle in mid movement PLUG WILL
ROUGH ADJUST IS DONE BY LOOSENING SCREWS AND MAKING IT LONGER OR SHORTER on connecting bar (LAST RESORT)
The PHOTOCELL is the last thing you would adjust, it is in the instructions.
The cut button will not work to stop the arm cam cycle in mid movement PLUG WILL
ROUGH ADJUST IS DONE BY LOOSENING SCREWS AND MAKING IT LONGER OR SHORTER on connecting bar (LAST RESORT)
Ok, many thanks. I will give it a go. By the way, how much of the brush was left visible after shrink tubing the base of it?
I would say about 1/8" or more. If it catches on anything the arm may shoot to center, so when you test it I would remove the stylus. I am a stupid American, is that a Swiss Flag?
New York, north of the city here. Good Luck I hope this helps you. I think that brush and or loose linkage is your problem. You really may not have to do any rough adjustment, if you find what is moving, and put it back where it used to be, and tighten the locking screw. If you have to adjust much you may have to adjust the shutter window a bit.
New York, north of the city here. Good Luck I hope this helps you. I think that brush and or loose linkage is your problem. You really may not have to do any rough adjustment, if you find what is moving, and put it back where it used to be, and tighten the locking screw. If you have to adjust much you may have to adjust the shutter window a bit.
Hi, I have sucessfully repaired the brush with shrink tubing. It came a little closer, but it still drops too soon. Messing around with the adjusting screws doesn’t seem to do much at all.
I have tried loosening the cam and moving both the cam and the gears in different positions, but it seems to drop at the same place each time. I feel a little stupid, not quite understanding your instructions. The service manual is not exactly well written either. But I am going to get it working eventually. The flag is Norwegian, and we are just about buried in snow over here. So a perfect time for some indoor activities like pretending to be a turntable guru😉
I have tried loosening the cam and moving both the cam and the gears in different positions, but it seems to drop at the same place each time. I feel a little stupid, not quite understanding your instructions. The service manual is not exactly well written either. But I am going to get it working eventually. The flag is Norwegian, and we are just about buried in snow over here. So a perfect time for some indoor activities like pretending to be a turntable guru😉
I told you I was a stupid American, please forgive me. What is the current position from where you need it. Did you get the bent bristles in the shrink too? If you hold the plate on the bottom of the arm that the brush pushes to the lead in position, gently see if you can move the arm in the amount you need, or even 1/4" at the cartridge. Very light pressure only. If it does move and the plate is stationary, some thing is loose. It has been year since I have been in there, so I may have to drop the bottom on mine for more accurate instructions. Do you think the tips could have broken off and it is shorter. Those cam screws give you about 3/8" from low to high point. You are very right about the manual (lost in translation)
The rough adjust is two screws on the 1/4" thin flat bar to make it longer or shorter.
LAST RESORT ADJUST
The rough adjust is two screws on the 1/4" thin flat bar to make it longer or shorter.
LAST RESORT ADJUST
Great, I will try that. Perhaps I should take some pictures of the mechanism and brush. Maybe you can spot something?
Mark it with a marker before you move it.
Do not tell anyone but I am running a VERY old, 1978 Koetsu Rosewood Long Body carts on this arm and it is fabulous. You can have feedback problems, at high levels. Serious listening is with the dust cover off.
Do not tell anyone but I am running a VERY old, 1978 Koetsu Rosewood Long Body carts on this arm and it is fabulous. You can have feedback problems, at high levels. Serious listening is with the dust cover off.
Hover your mouse over the flag. A country name pops-up. (May be browser dependent.)
"Do not tell anyone but I am running a VERY old, 1978 Koetsu Rosewood Long Body carts on this arm and it is fabulous. You can have feedback problems, at high levels. Serious listening is with the dust cover off."
Wow! had to google it. Looks beautiful, and with a price to match.
Out of my league, I am afraid.
I have just the MM input, and I am considering buying an SAE 1000E high output, or modifying an AT-95E with wax potting, ebony housing, and an AT6006(AT92E) hyper elliptical. As I understand my Luxman arm has about 10g mass, so an AT92E type stylus with higher compliance should be better.
Wow! had to google it. Looks beautiful, and with a price to match.
Out of my league, I am afraid.
I have just the MM input, and I am considering buying an SAE 1000E high output, or modifying an AT-95E with wax potting, ebony housing, and an AT6006(AT92E) hyper elliptical. As I understand my Luxman arm has about 10g mass, so an AT92E type stylus with higher compliance should be better.
Ok, here are some pictures.
All pictures are taken with the arm fixed in the armrest.
This is what the brush is supposed to push in order to move the arm, correct?
The 2 bottom screws are the ones I should loosen in order to move the plate for rough adjusting lead-in, correct. The single screw in the back I haven't touched, but I tried the 2 bottom ones and there was no noticeable effect.
These 2 screws are the ones I have loosened in order to move the black plate. I tried your suggestion holding it fixed while pushing the arm gently. The arm moved, but when I tightened these 2 screws better it didnt.
I hope you can spot anything, either way I really appreciate the help and patience.
All pictures are taken with the arm fixed in the armrest.This is what the brush is supposed to push in order to move the arm, correct?
The 2 bottom screws are the ones I should loosen in order to move the plate for rough adjusting lead-in, correct. The single screw in the back I haven't touched, but I tried the 2 bottom ones and there was no noticeable effect.
These 2 screws are the ones I have loosened in order to move the black plate. I tried your suggestion holding it fixed while pushing the arm gently. The arm moved, but when I tightened these 2 screws better it didnt.
I hope you can spot anything, either way I really appreciate the help and patience.
This audio is a crazy place. The Koetsu was given to me for building an Ampzilla amp kit back then. The K cost $600 back then. I used it for thirty years, it replaced my Shure V15 II. The story goes that Surgano Son built these in his kitchen with his wife. He loved opera and the human voice and he built this cart to do it well... it does!
I really didn't know how good it was, until I changed from a SUT to an active MC section. Vinyl has become very a expensive source to do right, but I have a fine collection of old quality records, and every day I am amazed at the signal that was put into those discs. Brubeck was a true technician way back in 1955. The reissues do not come close. I do have one Swedish recording "Jazz at the Pawn Shop" that will melt your socks if you can find it.
I really didn't know how good it was, until I changed from a SUT to an active MC section. Vinyl has become very a expensive source to do right, but I have a fine collection of old quality records, and every day I am amazed at the signal that was put into those discs. Brubeck was a true technician way back in 1955. The reissues do not come close. I do have one Swedish recording "Jazz at the Pawn Shop" that will melt your socks if you can find it.
I just saw one of your pics! Your TT doesn't even look close to mine. Yours is a newer revision, of what I have. I don't know where the pics went, after viewing one they disappeared?
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