Yes ai know, there’s plenty of choice on eBay and AliExpress, the link was just an example.
I do a lot of shopping from China, small things but probably 5 parcels on average a week, and never ever do I have to pay tax on anything. The UK customs is very relaxed, barely opens anything (imagine the sheer volumes coming through), especially if the declared value is below £13 (which every Chinese vendor I’ve ever dealt with routinely declares without me asking) and not sent express or using one of the big-name couriers. Anything from the US though seems to get stuck always and slapped with a hefty import fee (£15 for handling alone)
Anyway, still looking for confirmation that I could hook things up as explained and not damage anything (prevent overheating auto protect etc as someone alluded to above).
I do a lot of shopping from China, small things but probably 5 parcels on average a week, and never ever do I have to pay tax on anything. The UK customs is very relaxed, barely opens anything (imagine the sheer volumes coming through), especially if the declared value is below £13 (which every Chinese vendor I’ve ever dealt with routinely declares without me asking) and not sent express or using one of the big-name couriers. Anything from the US though seems to get stuck always and slapped with a hefty import fee (£15 for handling alone)
Anyway, still looking for confirmation that I could hook things up as explained and not damage anything (prevent overheating auto protect etc as someone alluded to above).
The ICE modules are very well documented, they even give values for resistors for the different circuits for switching any input. The only thing you need is the mechanical switch that activates the function. This can be done by one of this cheap boards. The relay is there to prevent any unwanted influence from the outside, so thou protect the module. I would simply stick top the ICE examples. That way you basicaly can not do any harm to these very well build amps. They can not be compared to any of our ceap China modules, where any shortcut that can be found is taken. If you handle them with some care they will run for ever.
Beware! Some modules are very basic and have no protection for shorted outputs. There is hardly a way you can short an active loudspeaker, that is what they are made for. Will be the wrong base to build a component like an integrated amp, where any fool can do a short, if you don´t put some extra protection in external cirquits. Over current protection is not shortcut save.
Beware! Some modules are very basic and have no protection for shorted outputs. There is hardly a way you can short an active loudspeaker, that is what they are made for. Will be the wrong base to build a component like an integrated amp, where any fool can do a short, if you don´t put some extra protection in external cirquits. Over current protection is not shortcut save.
Not sure about those standards and whether they are relevant for DIY but I measured 15W power consumption for the 1000ASP being idle with no music playing and 6W in standby (pin pulled to ground). 6W is still quite a lot in system with many modules so I see what you're saying about turning them off completely when not in use. However, the power off function needs to be remotely controlled by the preamp so although I could have a relay switch the mains on and off, not sure I want to route clean power from conditioner and expensive power cords through a $1 relay from China just in front of the modules....
I just did and the 12VDC AUX power is on even when the standby pin is pulled to ground. This is good news since driving a relay won't require a separate PSU.
I realize this is an older thread, but thought this might help others searching for a 12v trigger to an ASP module.
I think someone mentioned concern over grounding the "Shutdown/protect" on the ASP, but that is exactly what it was intended to do. It is pulled high by the internal 10k resistor connected to Vcc (+12.8v), grounding it will pull a measly 1.28mA.
All you need for a 12v trigger is a small SPDT 12v relay. You'd use the normally closed (nc) terminal pair to keep the amp in shutdown. Then, when you apply 12v to the trigger in, the nc terminals will open, releasing the amp from shutdown mode for normal operation. If you'd like, you can add a SPST switch in series with the relay, opening that switch would disable the trigger.
Check the coil rating on your relay to make sure it won't pull too much current from your 12v trigger. A cheap NTE relay (R46-5D12-12) I found only pulls 30mA at 12V.
I think someone mentioned concern over grounding the "Shutdown/protect" on the ASP, but that is exactly what it was intended to do. It is pulled high by the internal 10k resistor connected to Vcc (+12.8v), grounding it will pull a measly 1.28mA.
All you need for a 12v trigger is a small SPDT 12v relay. You'd use the normally closed (nc) terminal pair to keep the amp in shutdown. Then, when you apply 12v to the trigger in, the nc terminals will open, releasing the amp from shutdown mode for normal operation. If you'd like, you can add a SPST switch in series with the relay, opening that switch would disable the trigger.
Check the coil rating on your relay to make sure it won't pull too much current from your 12v trigger. A cheap NTE relay (R46-5D12-12) I found only pulls 30mA at 12V.
Look up 'using a transistor as a switch'.
On electronics sites or it's a staple of Arduino.
You will learn a lot.
Any small NPN transistor or FET will do.
2N7000 is popular.
See if you can figure it out, sketch a schematic & post.
I'll look it over before you blow your amp up (joking).
If you are struggling, ask again.
On electronics sites or it's a staple of Arduino.
You will learn a lot.
Any small NPN transistor or FET will do.
2N7000 is popular.
See if you can figure it out, sketch a schematic & post.
I'll look it over before you blow your amp up (joking).
If you are struggling, ask again.
Hi. I think I understand the transistor shown in the above referenced drawing being "closed" until there is voltage applied to the base. What I don't get is how to determine the values for the resistors shown, or why one of the resistors appears to go around the control voltage to the same ground pin we are trying to ground to put the amp in standby.
New to the forum so hope its ok to de-zombie this thread, but I have similar question and figured this one isn't so old and adding onto here makes searching easier for the next person.
First up background, I've got reasonable electrical knowledge and laymans electronics experience. I lucked into a deal on a used 500ASP board so wanted to play with it and try my hand to build out a DIY amp for the experience. Most of it seems to make sense and I grasp the general construction and circuit. But I'm looking at the 'wake on trigger signal' functionality and running square into my inexperience with transistors in general. The basics make sense, ground the shutdown/protect pin and the board goes into standby.
Looking in the datasheet it shows the recommended shutdown circuit. This is sort of opposite of what I want which is wake up on signal, but I have a question on resistor choices. In the recommended circuit R1 feeding into the base seems like it should be sized to limit the current into the transistor to something acceptable based on the signal voltage. But I'm not sure of the purpose of R2 and how to size? This may the kind of question that is really simple and my limited knowledge just makes it seem more than it is, but I'd appreciate the education.
On the flip side, what I really want is a 'wake up' circuit. I can see how you could bias the transistor so that it's closed initially, but what about waking it up. Reference above is kind of mentioning using transistor instead of relay? Using a relay is easy as mentioned above with it set up as NC pulling the pin down when the relay is idle. But is there a simple solid state solution and I'm just missing it? I did some google searches and I didn't find a specific solution though I could have missed it based on search terms, etc.
First up background, I've got reasonable electrical knowledge and laymans electronics experience. I lucked into a deal on a used 500ASP board so wanted to play with it and try my hand to build out a DIY amp for the experience. Most of it seems to make sense and I grasp the general construction and circuit. But I'm looking at the 'wake on trigger signal' functionality and running square into my inexperience with transistors in general. The basics make sense, ground the shutdown/protect pin and the board goes into standby.
Looking in the datasheet it shows the recommended shutdown circuit. This is sort of opposite of what I want which is wake up on signal, but I have a question on resistor choices. In the recommended circuit R1 feeding into the base seems like it should be sized to limit the current into the transistor to something acceptable based on the signal voltage. But I'm not sure of the purpose of R2 and how to size? This may the kind of question that is really simple and my limited knowledge just makes it seem more than it is, but I'd appreciate the education.
On the flip side, what I really want is a 'wake up' circuit. I can see how you could bias the transistor so that it's closed initially, but what about waking it up. Reference above is kind of mentioning using transistor instead of relay? Using a relay is easy as mentioned above with it set up as NC pulling the pin down when the relay is idle. But is there a simple solid state solution and I'm just missing it? I did some google searches and I didn't find a specific solution though I could have missed it based on search terms, etc.
I looked through what you posted in the other thread and I don't necessarily see an answer to the question of wake on signal. I understand the circuit you show which is using mosfets and grounding the input to the mosfet will open the circuit and allow the standby pin to go high and enable the amp.
But in order to pull down the mosfet gate you need something else? Theoretically we could use another mosfet, activated by the 12v trigger signal which pulls down the gate voltage on the first mosfet. But in this case it seems like you would need to link the ground planes of the trigger signal and the ground plane of the amp module?
So I guess I still don't see how this gets to a solution?
But in order to pull down the mosfet gate you need something else? Theoretically we could use another mosfet, activated by the 12v trigger signal which pulls down the gate voltage on the first mosfet. But in this case it seems like you would need to link the ground planes of the trigger signal and the ground plane of the amp module?
So I guess I still don't see how this gets to a solution?
Sorry.
It's so long since I last looked I've forgotten what I did.
I had 2 amps, one high to enable, one pull down to enable.
I created circuits for both for indicator LED and enable, from a 5V signal.
Try this.
Adjust resistor values to suit your standby voltage.
LEDs need less current than you think for indication.
And, yes, grounds were linked.
It's so long since I last looked I've forgotten what I did.
I had 2 amps, one high to enable, one pull down to enable.
I created circuits for both for indicator LED and enable, from a 5V signal.
Try this.
Adjust resistor values to suit your standby voltage.
LEDs need less current than you think for indication.
And, yes, grounds were linked.
Ok, appreciate the help and it was simpler than I was making it out to be. And I do like the clean inclusion of the LEDs for on/stby indication. The 500ASP is 12V bus so like you mentioned, I just need to adjust the various resistors to get the current/voltage to appropriate levels.
Any thoughts on using an optoisolator instead of the switching 2n7000 if I wanted to keep the ground planes separate?
@russc
Hey thanks for the help, I started working up something on a breadboard and then fell into a great deal on a Parasound 5125 with some bad channels for very cheap. I was originally just planning on salvageing the case for the amp project, but it turns out the main and input boards were good so I was able to salvage the power controls including 12V trigger and auto on with signal. So I just lucked out.
Hey thanks for the help, I started working up something on a breadboard and then fell into a great deal on a Parasound 5125 with some bad channels for very cheap. I was originally just planning on salvageing the case for the amp project, but it turns out the main and input boards were good so I was able to salvage the power controls including 12V trigger and auto on with signal. So I just lucked out.