Active crossover built into Class A

Evening everyone.
I couldent find a forum tread for my specific question. So im trying. Bear with me. 🙂
Im building two Aleph 3 and two Aleph 5 in the same chassis. and plan to put an active crossover inside the amplifier chassis as a part of the input stage.
I have 4 toroids 300va and 500va and so on 🙂 and about 576,000UF in total.
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Question is. my speakers costs 7000$, and i really really really dont want to open them up to bypass the passive crossovers. (they have biwire terminals)
Allso theres both a ribbon and normal tweeter. so i kind have to use the internal crossover. for the highs.
Will there even be a noticeble difference? or would it hurt the sound doing it like this?
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I was designing the amp with the midset that if the HZ (800) was the same all the internal crossover did, was send the signal on. as there was nothing to filter.

Regards Morten.
 
If you do not open the speakers, and use two amplifiers to power each section, while utilizing inner passive crossover, this is called 'biamping'.
This has nothing to do with active crossover.
You need the feed both amplifiers the same signal.
If you place active crossover infront of amplifiers, it will sound weird, because you have two crossovers.
 
that if the HZ (800) was the same all the internal crossover did, was send the signal on. as there was nothing to filter.
No, you'll double filter. Filters don't cut the signal like yes and no.. they roll it off on a slope. You'll have increased group delay from the steep slope, and if one of the crossovers isn't tuned properly you'll keep the error.

What you propose is likely to be worse than before if you don't do it as well as it was originally done.. whether you remove the original crossover or not.
 
I have built alot of Active Crossovers in years gone by for home equipment & in the PA world learning how they sound & when they blow up due to being over-driven. In the 1990's it was alot harder to calculate the Frequency crossover points, as all I had was the pie formulas, now the are online calculators to work it out for you & each R/C filter is 6db per octave.

If you was going to make an active crossover & you still had the passive crossover inside the speaker then I would choose higher frequency roll off for the bass & a lower frequency for the mid, tops which are away from the the speaker crossover frequencies. I still think it is pointless in doing because of the speaker box crossovers, but the amps would run more efficient with less bandwidth to amplify.

In the picture is one of my older test crossover circuits showing a design layout from above & the only thing missing is the 100k pots, which form part of the output circuit, this incluse a gnd loop isolation transformer as there is alot more ground loops to consider as you add more amps picking up noise...

01 X-Over.JPG
 

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Part of the advantage of active crossovers is not wasting amp power on frequencies not needed by the driver. No sense in sending bass to a tweeter so if that range is removed from the amp its power can be used in the high range. It also makes the amp run more easily because it’s not making the bass. If you make your active crossover at the same frequency as the passive you will often get odd unwanted results. By moving the frequency away from the speaker’s internal frequency you are less likely to get an interaction and still get most of the biamp benefits. Make the active crossover have the same slope as the passive so they don’t “run into each other”.
 
I was told that passive biamping without an active crossover was a waste of money.

It can maybe make an improvement. Both channels driving the loudspeaker should be identical.

That is the kind of statement made by someone who has actively biamped.

One of the big benefits of active is that it removes all the reactive circuitry inside the loudspeaker. This makes for happier amplifiers.

Information loss will also generally be less for a well designed active XO than for a passive XO.

A passive XO will often have “shaping” components in it, you may have to pay attention to this. This components for shaping the driver’s impedance likely do not matter, FR shaping does.

What $7k loudspeaker are you afraid to pull the XO out of? You actually don’t have to remove it, just bypass it. Disconnect the wires at the terminals and those connected to the drivers. Get some (good) new speaker wire and connect teh drivers directly to the terminals.

dave