Well it’s back to my very helpful community … I have Acoustic Elegance woofers going in a two way horn project.
I have reached out over and over and over and just can’t get them to respond to any post sale questions.
Very frustrating.
I would say they do amazing work but will likely never buy from them again - if you can’t take 2 minutes to respond to an email (sent 4 or 5 over a TWO WEEK PERIOD now)…
Very simple question:
The gigantic rubber “gasket” with holes all the way around… how is that normally mounted?
It seems very awkward and I don’t understand how it’s supposed to look when mounted. I drilled wood screws right through… but it looks TERRIBLE.
Am I able to remove that, and use normal gasket / subwoofer mounting pieces so it has a better “finished” look?
Please see pics for where I’m at with this
Thanks in advance
I have reached out over and over and over and just can’t get them to respond to any post sale questions.
Very frustrating.
I would say they do amazing work but will likely never buy from them again - if you can’t take 2 minutes to respond to an email (sent 4 or 5 over a TWO WEEK PERIOD now)…
Very simple question:
The gigantic rubber “gasket” with holes all the way around… how is that normally mounted?
It seems very awkward and I don’t understand how it’s supposed to look when mounted. I drilled wood screws right through… but it looks TERRIBLE.
Am I able to remove that, and use normal gasket / subwoofer mounting pieces so it has a better “finished” look?
Please see pics for where I’m at with this
Thanks in advance
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You may discard the rubber bit. However, if you can find a neat way to enlarge the outer holes, I would recommend retaining it as a convenient, neat trim piece.
One more thing: spoil yourself with some nicer screws. here are a few options available at Parts Express and even nicer ones on AliExpress.
https://www.parts-express.com/M3.5-x-25mm-Cap-Head-Wood-Screws-Black-100-Pcs.-081-304
One more thing: spoil yourself with some nicer screws. here are a few options available at Parts Express and even nicer ones on AliExpress.
https://www.parts-express.com/M3.5-x-25mm-Cap-Head-Wood-Screws-Black-100-Pcs.-081-304
I don't understand the fuss. The woofer doesn't come with screws or other attachment hardware, and you chose your own. If they don't fit through the holes in the rubber trim ring, that's on you. For what it's worth, if you flex the visible part of the trim ring away, and put the screw through the basket and tighten it it will not pucker the trim ring.
Take it off if you want and toss it in the bin. Of course, without is just as ugly. A person could make a very thin trim ring fabricated from 3mm hardboard, painted black with neodymium magnets epoxied on the back as a trim ring.
Options are limitless when you are the constructor.
Take it off if you want and toss it in the bin. Of course, without is just as ugly. A person could make a very thin trim ring fabricated from 3mm hardboard, painted black with neodymium magnets epoxied on the back as a trim ring.
Options are limitless when you are the constructor.
It looks like you're mounting on MDF. I strongly advise against wood screws since the hole will likely strip after you've mounted/unmounted the driver a few times [1]. T-nuts or threaded inserts are far superior.
[1] let's be honest, messing with stuff is part of DIY life
I like to use large self tapping screws. Black or silver.
The End of Retail stores means people can’t wander in and just ask, because you have to know the name of the things, otherwise you can’t ask.
But something like this looks nice
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...w-size-10-1-1/8-hex-head-black-ox-wax-finish/
Or the biggest one you can find that fits the hole and long enough to just go through your timber.
The End of Retail stores means people can’t wander in and just ask, because you have to know the name of the things, otherwise you can’t ask.
But something like this looks nice
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...w-size-10-1-1/8-hex-head-black-ox-wax-finish/
Or the biggest one you can find that fits the hole and long enough to just go through your timber.
I will not use them going forward, I have had a few cross thread or spin out. Now to be fair, I had good results once, but got a batch that were terrible. In good plywood, likely not an issue. MDF, I'd stick with drywall screws or metal screws.
Failure to mount a loudspeaker is not the manufacturer's issue. But it's surprising how many questions are asked/expected of the manufacturer. Manufacturers who have no distribution or retailer have to deal with all kinds of issues which are typical of retail customers.
So they should really up their prices and have good customer service.
I wonder if this thread should be changed to "Mounting a large woofer issues". Some years ago I purchased some 15" subwoofers that came with mounting hardware. Ultralow distortion/inductance/variable winding voice coil. A quick start guide.
But unfortunately a fantastic product wasn't enough to prevent a failed business (TC Sounds). AE should look after their customers. Or invest in some more employees or fix their supply chain to speed up manufacturing time. A few bad Google Reviews can really tarnish a good product.
So they should really up their prices and have good customer service.
I wonder if this thread should be changed to "Mounting a large woofer issues". Some years ago I purchased some 15" subwoofers that came with mounting hardware. Ultralow distortion/inductance/variable winding voice coil. A quick start guide.
But unfortunately a fantastic product wasn't enough to prevent a failed business (TC Sounds). AE should look after their customers. Or invest in some more employees or fix their supply chain to speed up manufacturing time. A few bad Google Reviews can really tarnish a good product.
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Shop online at the best hardware store I know of McMaster Carr. They usually supply goods overnight, and you don;t need to know names of things; if you can follow drawings. If you design on paper, you can import dxf files for all the parts, right from the product page
www.mcmaster.com
www.mcmaster.com
As far as I remember, John has pretty much been a one man show. Not excusing the lack of e-mail replies, but one guy in Green Bay can only do so much. Machining and building woofers from scratch is a hard gig by yourself. Realizing this could help customers manage their expectations, and I feel like most people who are buying AE subs already know this.
I could see threaded inserts not being worth their while. But tee nuts spinning? Maybe a dab of epoxy or a secondary lock screw from the inside, then?
Doesn't help when the substrate fails. Wood flour + binders = poor product. I have sworn off MDF too as a consequence.
I feel your pain (meaning I have had a similar experience). Have not owned one of the larger AE drivers but it seems common for manufacturers seem to add these thick rubber trim rings around the mounting flange. I don't exactly know why they do it but it makes the driver are real PITA to mount securely and many fasteners pull into the rubber. I once tried adding some washers but that just looked horrible. Now I pull the rubber rings off and just mount the driver via the cast frame. IMHO this is a much better way to mount a large subwoofer type driver. The rubber trim ring can be un-installed and re-installed later if you wish. I just put them back in the box in case I need it later or if I want to sell the driver and the new owner wants them.
