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Aavid Thermalloy Possible Group Buy

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Anthony, if there is enough interest for doing FPE, I am in. In previous posts you've mentioned that it might not happen due to low response. I think from doing the panels with FPE is worth while invest for this build.
BTW, you maybe want to change the home page of your profile to point to the WIKI 😉

Gjorgji
 
Re: Re: rear plate

tbrooke said:
Is that a fuse holder and Bulgin switch above the IEC?

Or maybe do you have a parts list since I assume the holes contemplate a fairly specific size as to binding posts etc.


Coulomb said:



I can post the dimensions when I get home tonight.

The RCA input jack is standard as is the Switch hole and the XLR connector. There are several mounting patterns available for the XLR I can specify which one I used.
I think holes used for Binding posts follow a standard for some WBT type posts. This can be changed, I will verify.

The small D hole is for an ETA Circuit Breaker Fairly standard.
The large hole is for a standard rocker switch, not Bulgin.
The square hole is Standard IEC Male 3 prong. I usually use a Corcom input/filter block.

Anthony

The cutout is for any R13-135 style switch, I used these ones. This can be changed if everyone agrees on a different cutout.

Anthony
 

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gjorgji said:
Anthony, if there is enough interest for doing FPE, I am in. In previous posts you've mentioned that it might not happen due to low response. I think from doing the panels with FPE is worth while invest for this build.
BTW, you maybe want to change the home page of your profile to point to the WIKI 😉

Gjorgji

Good suggestion. I had to point to the Group buy page as the title of my group buy is too long for the script box. I can not edit the name as the wiki is all screwed up.

Anthony
 
Re: Re: Re: rear plate

Coulomb said:





The cutout is for any R13-135 style switch, I used these ones. This can be changed if everyone agrees on a different cutout.

Anthony

Here is a drop in switch from Mouser. The data sheet has the contact rating at 16A @ 125VAC, I think the Mouser data entry clerk made a typo rating it at 10A @ 125VAC. This model has a 110 AC Red indicator as well.



R13-135

Anthony
 
Re: Re: rear plate

Coulomb said:



I can post the dimensions when I get home tonight.

The RCA input jack is standard as is the Switch hole and the XLR connector. There are several mounting patterns available for the XLR I can specify which one I used.
I think holes used for Binding posts follow a standard for some WBT type posts. This can be changed, I will verify.

The small D hole is for an ETA Circuit Breaker Fairly standard.
The large hole is for a standard rocker switch, not Bulgin.
The square hole is Standard IEC Male 3 prong. I usually use a Corcom input/filter block.

Anthony

Specifically this ETA style CB

Type 106

For higher current applications

Type 1140

Anthony
 
For the Chassis buyers / Rear panel buyers perhaps I could organize a bulk buy on the parts required. This type of thing is easy for me to put togther, I buy millions of dollars of electronic parts a year in my job as a Procurement Manager.

Binding posts
RCA Jacks
XLR Connector
Input switch
Power line switch
ETA CB
IEC Connector.

I know the Quality Level discussion could get lively, but we could start by setting a $ dollar cap. For the sake of argument we could start at $50, do we want to spend more or less on these parts?

I will make some reccomendations and put a parts list together.

Dear God what a can of worms! :whazzat:

Anthony
 
Here is a matrix of the options I have researched for the back panel components. Once the selection is finalized I can ensure the panel cutouts match the selections.

I have priced with bulk discounts where possible MOQ = 25

I have not contacted Parts Connexxion or Take Five Audio as yet. I suspect a discount can be had once we decide what we want, if anything.

Any feedback on selections is welcomed.

Anthony
 

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I guess I was sort of thinking that you would pick what you thought was best for a total of around $50. That being said I don't really have experience with anything other than parts express stuff. It's cheap and has worked OK. I also use stuff that I can scavenge off of disposed equipment at work.
Therefore I really don't know the advantages of using higher quality stuff other than paying more for it! I will defer to other members opinions🙂

ps - when I downloaded the attachment I had to rename it with the .zip extension. Maybe my browser stripped the .zip extension off - I don't know. Anyhow it worked fine after I renamed it.
 
parts

I was able to come to 84.69 with real quick math. and by pulling off the feet (ouch) that saves 20 so about 65 for the parts. That doesn't seem too bad Intro price on an F5 is $2495 at Reno HIFI. So....

But of couse I might not be able to build one as well as Mr. Pass

Tom
 
I have updated the Panel parts kit spreadsheet, once opened you will notice I have added to it. All pricing is in $USD, and the amounts include the right multiples required for one panel. There a lot of options listed, different configurations could be considered.

There are three suggested configurations listed on the sheet $50, $65 & $95. Depending on the choices some cutouts would need to be adjusted on the rear panel. The process then would be pick the parts and then modify and submit the panel to FPE for manufacture.

Depending on the configuration chosen I may ask a US member to buy the parts and ship me the Canadian orders. The US member can then mail out the parts kit saving US members the sales tax. I can ensure the suppliers charge the right pricing.

The only caveat is that in order to get this pricing, we must hit the lowest MOQ of 20 sets. So we need 20 Panel orders and 20 Parts kit orders, this could be difficult. I will update the wiki with a voting column for the Panel parts kit.

As far as the rear panel goes, if we go with Natural (Silver grey) we can get it for under $40 USD.

Anthony
 

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Good job

Must have taken some work to get that together

I was wondering about the XLR.

I guess by putting in the hole you could put in an unwired connector if you didn't want to use it but then again if no one wanted it it would be an extra hole in the rear panel .

Just a thought I don't want to open a can of worms.
(might do me good to figure out how to do a balanced input)

Tom
 
Re: Good job

tbrooke said:
Must have taken some work to get that together

I was wondering about the XLR.

I guess by putting in the hole you could put in an unwired connector if you didn't want to use it but then again if no one wanted it it would be an extra hole in the rear panel .

Just a thought I don't want to open a can of worms.
(might do me good to figure out how to do a balanced input)

Tom

I could look into supplying panel plugs, they are round, bright, shiny and have spring clips to hold them in place. 😎

Anthony
 
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