I want to share a few other comparative quotes with the members to help shed some light on just how competitive R-Theta is.
These are all quotes for the 65605 profile with no machining.
Thermal Solutions
EXT702854B X 8.00" Qty: 50pcs $72.18ea USD
Wakefield - Sold through Richardson Electronics
6274 cut to 10 inches and black anodized is $59.23 CAD/each based on a quantity of 100 pcs
Aavid Thermalloy - Sold through Richardson Electronics
725453B08000G is $74.75 Cad/each at 100 pcs MOQ
Anthony
These are all quotes for the 65605 profile with no machining.
Thermal Solutions
EXT702854B X 8.00" Qty: 50pcs $72.18ea USD
Wakefield - Sold through Richardson Electronics
6274 cut to 10 inches and black anodized is $59.23 CAD/each based on a quantity of 100 pcs
Aavid Thermalloy - Sold through Richardson Electronics
725453B08000G is $74.75 Cad/each at 100 pcs MOQ
Anthony
Cut back
I cut back to one chassis but left the 4 sinks.
(F3 is progressing F5 is a ways off)
Could you clarify the FPE back panel
Tom
I cut back to one chassis but left the 4 sinks.
(F3 is progressing F5 is a ways off)
Could you clarify the FPE back panel
Tom
Re: Cut back
Right, what is drilled out on the back panel? (fingers crossed for IEC inlet)
I downloaded e-viewer and the amp enlosure assembly, and I've got to say it looks great!
That Bulgin (blue) switch would look neat on the front panel.
Lastly, you mentioned your looking into feet. (that would be nice).
tbrooke said:I cut back to one chassis but left the 4 sinks.
(F3 is progressing F5 is a ways off)
Could you clarify the FPE back panel
Tom
Right, what is drilled out on the back panel? (fingers crossed for IEC inlet)
I downloaded e-viewer and the amp enlosure assembly, and I've got to say it looks great!
That Bulgin (blue) switch would look neat on the front panel.
Lastly, you mentioned your looking into feet. (that would be nice).
Re: Re: Cut back
I will second that IEC would be nice
merlin2069er said:
Right, what is drilled out on the back panel? (fingers crossed for IEC inlet)
I downloaded e-viewer and the amp enlosure assembly, and I've got to say it looks great!
That Bulgin (blue) switch would look neat on the front panel.
Lastly, you mentioned your looking into feet. (that would be nice).
I will second that IEC would be nice
Re: Re: Re: Cut back
Definitely includes the standard IEC I did post a suggested layout in the form of a PDF earlier in this thread. I will repost a revise layout later tonight.
I hope to have my samples of the blue switch soon. I will put it in a panel and light it up, I will post a photo.
Anthony
merlin2069er said:
Right, what is drilled out on the back panel? (fingers crossed for IEC inlet)
I downloaded e-viewer and the amp enlosure assembly, and I've got to say it looks great!
That Bulgin (blue) switch would look neat on the front panel.
Lastly, you mentioned your looking into feet. (that would be nice).
tbrooke said:
I will second that IEC would be nice
Definitely includes the standard IEC I did post a suggested layout in the form of a PDF earlier in this thread. I will repost a revise layout later tonight.
I hope to have my samples of the blue switch soon. I will put it in a panel and light it up, I will post a photo.
Anthony
Blue ring switch
Here's what my Bulgin switch looks like ...
A real beauty, with a beauty price too
Coulomb said:
I hope to have my samples of the blue switch soon. I will put it in a panel and light it up, I will post a photo.
Anthony
Here's what my Bulgin switch looks like ...
A real beauty, with a beauty price too

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It might be help for many to make a list of FW amps and how much wattage they need to dissipate.
Re: Blue ring switch
I take it you have this model number? As it is a low voltage switch, are you using a relay circuit for the mains?
MPI002/TERM/BL
Anthony
argofanatic said:
Here's what my Bulgin switch looks like ...
A real beauty, with a beauty price too![]()
I take it you have this model number? As it is a low voltage switch, are you using a relay circuit for the mains?
MPI002/TERM/BL
Anthony
Re: Re: Blue ring switch
Absolutetly correct on both counts!
Relay circuits using a microcontroller. Soft start, speaker disconnect relays. Works great.
Coulomb said:
I take it you have this model number? As it is a low voltage switch, are you using a relay circuit for the mains?
MPI002/TERM/BL
Anthony
Absolutetly correct on both counts!
Relay circuits using a microcontroller. Soft start, speaker disconnect relays. Works great.
rear plate
Is that a fuse holder and Bulgin switch above the IEC?
Or maybe do you have a parts list since I assume the holes contemplate a fairly specific size as to binding posts etc.
Is that a fuse holder and Bulgin switch above the IEC?
Or maybe do you have a parts list since I assume the holes contemplate a fairly specific size as to binding posts etc.
Re: rear plate
I can post the dimensions when I get home tonight.
The RCA input jack is standard as is the Switch hole and the XLR connector. There are several mounting patterns available for the XLR I can specify which one I used.
I think holes used for Binding posts follow a standard for some WBT type posts. This can be changed, I will verify.
The small D hole is for an ETA Circuit Breaker Fairly standard.
The large hole is for a standard rocker switch, not Bulgin.
The square hole is Standard IEC Male 3 prong. I usually use a Corcom input/filter block.
Anthony
tbrooke said:Is that a fuse holder and Bulgin switch above the IEC?
Or maybe do you have a parts list since I assume the holes contemplate a fairly specific size as to binding posts etc.
I can post the dimensions when I get home tonight.
The RCA input jack is standard as is the Switch hole and the XLR connector. There are several mounting patterns available for the XLR I can specify which one I used.
I think holes used for Binding posts follow a standard for some WBT type posts. This can be changed, I will verify.
The small D hole is for an ETA Circuit Breaker Fairly standard.
The large hole is for a standard rocker switch, not Bulgin.
The square hole is Standard IEC Male 3 prong. I usually use a Corcom input/filter block.
Anthony
non-anodized
Anthony, I went for the natural look because of the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor).
My phono preamp has a natural brushed aluminum face plate and I discovered one day that my thumbprints were all over it after I had positioned it.
Is there some method of laying a protective coat over the aluminum, such as lacquer or a clear anodized process?
Ahhh, and once this really gets off the ground, in honor of Canada, the first piece of music to be played on my F5 will be Rush! Maybe something from Caress of Steel😀
Anthony, I went for the natural look because of the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor).
My phono preamp has a natural brushed aluminum face plate and I discovered one day that my thumbprints were all over it after I had positioned it.
Is there some method of laying a protective coat over the aluminum, such as lacquer or a clear anodized process?
Ahhh, and once this really gets off the ground, in honor of Canada, the first piece of music to be played on my F5 will be Rush! Maybe something from Caress of Steel😀
Re: non-anodized
Untreated Aluminum can be protected from the fatty acids found on finger tips by rubbing in a fine macine oil intended to protect bare metals.
Another method is a clear laquer coat, it has to be sprayed in thin multiple coats to take properly or it will blemish, discolor or flake.
The alternative is to Clear Anodize Aluminum.
This photo I took of my preamp demonstrates the Laquer finish after sanding the panel in one direction only with fine sandpaper.
Preamp
Regards
Anthony
sonidos said:Anthony, I went for the natural look because of the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor).
My phono preamp has a natural brushed aluminum face plate and I discovered one day that my thumbprints were all over it after I had positioned it.
Is there some method of laying a protective coat over the aluminum, such as lacquer or a clear anodized process?
Ahhh, and once this really gets off the ground, in honor of Canada, the first piece of music to be played on my F5 will be Rush! Maybe something from Caress of Steel😀
Untreated Aluminum can be protected from the fatty acids found on finger tips by rubbing in a fine macine oil intended to protect bare metals.
Another method is a clear laquer coat, it has to be sprayed in thin multiple coats to take properly or it will blemish, discolor or flake.
The alternative is to Clear Anodize Aluminum.
This photo I took of my preamp demonstrates the Laquer finish after sanding the panel in one direction only with fine sandpaper.
Preamp
Regards
Anthony
Alodine is another alternative for protecting aluminum: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3982&highlight=
Thanks Anthony and Peter! That makes me feel better...I've got a curious toddler whom we now nickname Houdini. I just imagined all her finger prints on my chassis!
Canadian
It just dawned on me you're talking Canadian so I figure a full blown large chassis is about $322 Canadian or about $250 US.
Does that sound right?
Not bad - I may go back to two
Tom
It just dawned on me you're talking Canadian so I figure a full blown large chassis is about $322 Canadian or about $250 US.
Does that sound right?
Not bad - I may go back to two
Tom
Re: Canadian
ok, how much is a small chassis? I might switch to 2 smalls.
tbrooke said:It just dawned on me you're talking Canadian so I figure a full blown large chassis is about $322 Canadian or about $250 US.
Does that sound right?
Not bad - I may go back to two
Tom
ok, how much is a small chassis? I might switch to 2 smalls.
Re: Canadian
Mostly correct Tom, I have updated the wiki so it is clear. All prices are in $CAD with the exception of the Back Panel from FPE which is in $USD.
I agree in $USD it is quite a deal.
Regards
Anthony
tbrooke said:It just dawned on me you're talking Canadian so I figure a full blown large chassis is about $322 Canadian or about $250 US.
Does that sound right?
Not bad - I may go back to two
Tom
Mostly correct Tom, I have updated the wiki so it is clear. All prices are in $CAD with the exception of the Back Panel from FPE which is in $USD.
I agree in $USD it is quite a deal.
Regards
Anthony
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