What’s the purple line represent on this plot?
If you label your data panels (title bar is default with date and time - retype your own), then select legends to be displayed when making screenshot with the “camera” icon, you won’t need to redo your legends manually.
Also, good idea to collect data from 10Hz to 22kHz assuming 44kHz sampling rate on your ADC or sound card. The plots look good though.
If you label your data panels (title bar is default with date and time - retype your own), then select legends to be displayed when making screenshot with the “camera” icon, you won’t need to redo your legends manually.
Also, good idea to collect data from 10Hz to 22kHz assuming 44kHz sampling rate on your ADC or sound card. The plots look good though.
Put mic so that it is closer to speaker than distance from middle of cone to floor. Or aim speaker by tilting down at the floor (blocks on back), then place mic on floor. Since it is on floor, it can't have a floor bounce. The FDW gating takes care of wall reflections on side walls or back.
Floor needs to be smooth and hard though for the HF's - not shag carpet, etc.
Floor needs to be smooth and hard though for the HF's - not shag carpet, etc.
hi hoyungh - never had AN10 in a K12 due to it not being rear-mount friendly. Nirvana drivers seem to have suspensions that are stiff sometimes when new or they get stiff in a few years, raising fs and qts far above spec - - maybe its the black goop used to dope their surrounds (?) My AN10 has fs around 49Hz and Qts ~0.41 - for what it is, it sounded pretty good in K15 and very good in the Karlsonator 12. My AN8 started with parameters close to factory but after a few years, fs went up a half octave or so to mid 60s and Qts up to around 0.38.
Speaking of Nirvana, I wonder what happened in the tall K8 above loaded with AN8 to have no bass at all and a funky input Z when I moved the port to a 3" diameter hole (or duct) near the top of the inner panel? (That HAK8 "high aspect K8" has the same bulk as a K12) Wish I hadn't done that but can block the hole then open the regular slot port up pretty easy.
When empirically piddling with this stuff, it would have made some sense to have a couple of test mule cabinets with removable and movable parts - like a hinged baffle that swings in an arc to adjust angle and front volume - movable port and reflector boards - back panel to move in and out - lowpass shelf, several sets of tapers.
I've not had any income for a month and if lucky (?) - income will resume around March - can't pay bills much less play with drivers - I'd love to hear that 2145 in a new K of some sort.
Speaking of Nirvana, I wonder what happened in the tall K8 above loaded with AN8 to have no bass at all and a funky input Z when I moved the port to a 3" diameter hole (or duct) near the top of the inner panel? (That HAK8 "high aspect K8" has the same bulk as a K12) Wish I hadn't done that but can block the hole then open the regular slot port up pretty easy.
When empirically piddling with this stuff, it would have made some sense to have a couple of test mule cabinets with removable and movable parts - like a hinged baffle that swings in an arc to adjust angle and front volume - movable port and reflector boards - back panel to move in and out - lowpass shelf, several sets of tapers.
I've not had any income for a month and if lucky (?) - income will resume around March - can't pay bills much less play with drivers - I'd love to hear that 2145 in a new K of some sort.
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I am sorry to hear you are in trouble and will pray for this trial to end. Hope you have been keeping healthy and sleeping well.
Have you the new data for the AN10 and AN8 you own?(preferably in akabak format?) What are the rear, top and front volumes and connecting duct sizes for the HAK8?
If we see the K as a DCAAV with a K-coupler we should be able to tune the DCAAV to its optimum then plug the recommended dimensions into X's model to see what comes out.
I thought for a double chamber reflex a high Qts is sort of a good thing?
May God bless you with health strength and good fortune
Have you the new data for the AN10 and AN8 you own?(preferably in akabak format?) What are the rear, top and front volumes and connecting duct sizes for the HAK8?
If we see the K as a DCAAV with a K-coupler we should be able to tune the DCAAV to its optimum then plug the recommended dimensions into X's model to see what comes out.
I thought for a double chamber reflex a high Qts is sort of a good thing?
May God bless you with health strength and good fortune
(prayer sincerely appreciated) - if I can move some transformers and bass guitars then might scrape by. I should pull the AN8 and measure its parameters. One AN10 is just sitting out so I can get those.
do you think there's some "art" involved in getting a nice smooth sounding new K? - or can it be reduced to some rules to follow?
do you think there's some "art" involved in getting a nice smooth sounding new K? - or can it be reduced to some rules to follow?
here's the plan for that tall K8 "XK8" - maybe you can Akabak it and get an idea of what drivers might work best and what porting - or better - a new different "K". My XK8 are built with flat boards shown with red-dotted-lines. The new 3 inch diameter port is in the center of the upper board. I have a Tang band W8-1772 in the other XK8 cabinet
the cabinet with the upper port hole and AN8 made a very strange input Z plot
https://i.imgur.com/7HnLKMJ.png
the cabinet with the upper port hole and AN8 made a very strange input Z plot
https://i.imgur.com/7HnLKMJ.png
Freddi for a K15 the speaker chamber is 72L the upper chamber is 38L. For the tall K8 the speaker chamber is 28L the upper chamber is 42L. For a dual chamber reflex we need to make the speaker chamber 46L and the upper chamber 23L. Do you think you can use styrofoam sheets to make the barrier between the speaker chamber and upper chamber higher up the back portion.
it shouldn't be too difficult to glue in place using the caulking stuff plumbers use. the 3 ducts should be 2inches dia 8cm long if you are using your w8-1772.
What do you think?
The box as it stands has a quarterwave resonance of 120Hz. Not sure can find driver resonant freq 120 hz for such a large box.
it shouldn't be too difficult to glue in place using the caulking stuff plumbers use. the 3 ducts should be 2inches dia 8cm long if you are using your w8-1772.
What do you think?
The box as it stands has a quarterwave resonance of 120Hz. Not sure can find driver resonant freq 120 hz for such a large box.
Freddi I am sorry that i am not good at using libre draw to make pictures. If you are on whatsapp I can sketch it out with pen and paper and send you a picture. when i click on the picture icon above it asks for a url. I also havent learnt to take a picture with my laptop camera.
it appears as i get older there are more and more things to learn and less and less time to do the things i like(doesnt that sound like a grumpy old chinaman?
)
it appears as i get older there are more and more things to learn and less and less time to do the things i like(doesnt that sound like a grumpy old chinaman?
)Oh and Freddi I dont know what its like where you are but where I am people throw away styrofoam stuff used for packing and construction sites often have odd pieces of pvc pipe lying around so I am fortunate I don't have to spend much for this hobby.
I certainly wish I had read about X and his ideas earlier instead of ....
I certainly wish I had read about X and his ideas earlier instead of ....
- not driven since ~1993 so don't really go anywhere other than doctor for BP meds and H&R Block. I need to find some packing to hopefully sell at Ebay. - - got one 2" pvc K-tube made some years back which has a stub which could cut off.
do you think a standard DBR with K-coupler placed in front would pretty much work? - the upper vent might be shorter than with direct radiator arrangement due to the path and load of the coupler
I need to find some packing to hopefully sell at Ebay. - - got one 2" pvc K-tube made some years back which has a stub which could cut off.do you think a standard DBR with K-coupler placed in front would pretty much work? - the upper vent might be shorter than with direct radiator arrangement due to the path and load of the coupler
i sincerely hope that doesnt mean you dont move around much. since i stopped work i have struggled with that and now use an app called lark. it sort of tracks my movements and reminds me to keep moving. after all dont want to end up like my dad who went from couch potato to dementia.
the two options are dcaav and dbr. you might as well try both. using 3inch drives i couldnt hear difference but resonant freq about 100 so shelf from 55 to 100+hz for dbr was good/acceptable? X sort of mentioned the dips our ears sort of fill in. 1772 in this case shelf for dbr is 40+ to 80hz. for dcaav shelf would be from 40+ to 200. let me check out whether i have made any errors and list out the options.
and if you can teach me how to send pics that would be good
the two options are dcaav and dbr. you might as well try both. using 3inch drives i couldnt hear difference but resonant freq about 100 so shelf from 55 to 100+hz for dbr was good/acceptable? X sort of mentioned the dips our ears sort of fill in. 1772 in this case shelf for dbr is 40+ to 80hz. for dcaav shelf would be from 40+ to 200. let me check out whether i have made any errors and list out the options.
and if you can teach me how to send pics that would be good
Freddi i dont know if this will help but there is a herb that lowers blood pressure when its too high and raises it when its too low. try googling "jiaogulan".
its sold as tea bags and really helped me when i was tested as having hypertension and high blood sugar. eventually changing my diet and regular exercise stopped that. i sort of dislike the idea of having to take medication for the rest of my life
its sold as tea bags and really helped me when i was tested as having hypertension and high blood sugar. eventually changing my diet and regular exercise stopped that. i sort of dislike the idea of having to take medication for the rest of my life