it will be good to see X simulate Beta 8 in a Karlson. I've run Beta 8cx years ago in a "K10" coupler with about 1 cubic foot rear/ 1/2 cubic foot front chamber. That may have been slightly large with regards to maximum power handling. It sounded something balance wise like my Klipschorn. There was a cavity peak around 210Hz. That might be mitigated with more height while keeping bulk constant (?) A K-tube with compression driver would be the natural compliment to a woofer in a K15 style coupler.
the front deflecting shelf, which also tuned K15 lower than without that feature, was deleted in Karlson's smaller couplers. (K12/K8). It may have been used with his K18. An extra chamber connected to the top of the front chamber could be used to balance a peak (it it occurs). It would be interesting to have X investigate that feature and perhaps give some rules on adding it.
a K-tube tweeter may be mounted "in" the front chamber per Karlson's "X15". K12, after 1955, had its port panel canted forwards 10 degrees from perpendicular. For example, a K-tube could be mounted through a hole in that panel and tip of the tube, about flush with the front aperture plane. There will be some influence from the mix of the tube's output inside the chamber and the more direct emission at high F's straight down the tube and out the front. X15 sounded very good that way as does my K18 run 2-way with a tube.
putting the K-tube on top, like with Transylvania Power Company's system, of course removes the effects of chamber reflections and re-emissions through the front aperture. Either way can be a good way to go. I think also, when using a K-tube on top, that its worth investigating use of a baffle at the compression driver's exit plane to offset foldback and LF droop from a "small baffle". Test with cardboard then finish with something more permanent.
K-tube on top - btw, Acoustic Control's little 115BK makes a nice alternative to a front load midbass horn
K-tube "inside"
a classic Karlson 12 is an option for 8 inch drivers. I would make it stock and use adapter rings for 8 or 10 inch drivers.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Here's a question for X
when do you see the rear lowpass gap shelf "useful" ?
here's where that feature as a full width board, returned in some K12. The first K12 in 1954 had a movable board on the back panel to adjust the rear gap area.
1960's K12 Kit which came un-vented (apparently there were instructions on how many holes to drill for popular speakers
of that day)
1954 K12 with adjustable rear low pass gap
the front deflecting shelf, which also tuned K15 lower than without that feature, was deleted in Karlson's smaller couplers. (K12/K8). It may have been used with his K18. An extra chamber connected to the top of the front chamber could be used to balance a peak (it it occurs). It would be interesting to have X investigate that feature and perhaps give some rules on adding it.
a K-tube tweeter may be mounted "in" the front chamber per Karlson's "X15". K12, after 1955, had its port panel canted forwards 10 degrees from perpendicular. For example, a K-tube could be mounted through a hole in that panel and tip of the tube, about flush with the front aperture plane. There will be some influence from the mix of the tube's output inside the chamber and the more direct emission at high F's straight down the tube and out the front. X15 sounded very good that way as does my K18 run 2-way with a tube.
putting the K-tube on top, like with Transylvania Power Company's system, of course removes the effects of chamber reflections and re-emissions through the front aperture. Either way can be a good way to go. I think also, when using a K-tube on top, that its worth investigating use of a baffle at the compression driver's exit plane to offset foldback and LF droop from a "small baffle". Test with cardboard then finish with something more permanent.
K-tube on top - btw, Acoustic Control's little 115BK makes a nice alternative to a front load midbass horn
K-tube "inside"
a classic Karlson 12 is an option for 8 inch drivers. I would make it stock and use adapter rings for 8 or 10 inch drivers.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Here's a question for X
when do you see the rear lowpass gap shelf "useful" ?
here's where that feature as a full width board, returned in some K12. The first K12 in 1954 had a movable board on the back panel to adjust the rear gap area.
1960's K12 Kit which came un-vented (apparently there were instructions on how many holes to drill for popular speakers
of that day)
1954 K12 with adjustable rear low pass gap
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"FIG.1" of Karlson's 1951 patent is interesting - it appears to have quite a bit of front chamber volume and rear chamber ported out the rear. The radio section fit on top. 1951 was the year Karlson\s classi K15 was built and tested. It remained basically unchanged at his death in 1973. Just the port and shelf gap changes in 1956.
a bit on the Acoustic Control 115BK 15 inch K-coupler
it was approximately the size of Karlson's "X15". Without the front aperture inset of 1.5 inches, 115BK would be 27" tall by 20.5" wide by 13.5" deep. It had about a 27 square inch vent and radial arc "wings". With a 5% or so efficient 15, I would consider it as an alternative to a midbass horn plus it sounds good as a 2-way with K-tube on top (like its cousin from Transylvania Power Company who manufactured "The Tube". With EVM15L, 115BK sounded very good on electric guitar.
~ground plane
it was approximately the size of Karlson's "X15". Without the front aperture inset of 1.5 inches, 115BK would be 27" tall by 20.5" wide by 13.5" deep. It had about a 27 square inch vent and radial arc "wings". With a 5% or so efficient 15, I would consider it as an alternative to a midbass horn plus it sounds good as a 2-way with K-tube on top (like its cousin from Transylvania Power Company who manufactured "The Tube". With EVM15L, 115BK sounded very good on electric guitar.
~ground plane
"K10" size (1.82 cubic foot bulk) 0.62 scale K15 with FE206EN
not a bad match and nice little size. I think it might (?) have more "hit" than a Karlsonator 8 but would not go as low. It probably would work with Beta8cx - its larger than xrk971's XKi for Beta8cx.
I'd like to hear X's ideas on a dedicated little K for FE206EN since its such a nice Karlson driver.
soprano and harp
https://youtu.be/NaWvtfI6FiA
drums
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpGkYpAcUdw
not a bad match and nice little size. I think it might (?) have more "hit" than a Karlsonator 8 but would not go as low. It probably would work with Beta8cx - its larger than xrk971's XKi for Beta8cx.
I'd like to hear X's ideas on a dedicated little K for FE206EN since its such a nice Karlson driver.
soprano and harp
https://youtu.be/NaWvtfI6FiA
drums
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpGkYpAcUdw
Hi X - - I thought you modeled FE206EN in a scaled K15 but can't yet locate a simulation. FE206EN plays pretty well in the 0.62 scale K15. What tweaking in aspect, and maybe front chamber shape might one make in hopes of even better results? Does the volume division of the rear chamber by the rear shelf matter much?
I need to load a Delta10a into the cabinet below to see how it compares with K12 loaded with pym1298 (which is pretty much the same as Kappa12a) - just to see and hear the bottom size limits of a really punchy K-coupler.
what would you expect to happen if the baffle had less tilt so to pull an 8" speaker a bit closer to the aperture? could the back chamber be reduced in volume accordingly and not raise the LF cutoff?
the exterior bulk of this little cabinet is about 1.82 cubic feet - maybe a lower limit for regular K to have some semblance of LF. I have a Delta10a in an older K10 and the output is subjertively impressive. Also B102 in a slit vent "Pioneer K12" does well. I want big horn performance in 2 cubic feet. It just about can be done. Would be nice to have a neo motor 10 (to save weight), internal K-tube and a handle on top for carrying ;^)
btw - speaking of 10" drivers - my builder is making progress on the scaled University Classic - I hope it plays reasonably well - don't expect it to be quite as good as my RCA-Fan horn - but maybe it will have some goodness. Apparently the rectangular throat was figured too large for a 10 so Jesse put in four corner blocks. Do you think the modified throat will have any adverse effects ? I assume the original rectangular opening went past a 10" driver's gasket boundary.
I think this horn is about 6 cubic feet, so 1.9 cubic feet larger than the X15 Karlson - it should
be a good comparison IF the Classic scales right and behaves right.
I need to load a Delta10a into the cabinet below to see how it compares with K12 loaded with pym1298 (which is pretty much the same as Kappa12a) - just to see and hear the bottom size limits of a really punchy K-coupler.
what would you expect to happen if the baffle had less tilt so to pull an 8" speaker a bit closer to the aperture? could the back chamber be reduced in volume accordingly and not raise the LF cutoff?
the exterior bulk of this little cabinet is about 1.82 cubic feet - maybe a lower limit for regular K to have some semblance of LF. I have a Delta10a in an older K10 and the output is subjertively impressive. Also B102 in a slit vent "Pioneer K12" does well. I want big horn performance in 2 cubic feet. It just about can be done. Would be nice to have a neo motor 10 (to save weight), internal K-tube and a handle on top for carrying ;^)
btw - speaking of 10" drivers - my builder is making progress on the scaled University Classic - I hope it plays reasonably well - don't expect it to be quite as good as my RCA-Fan horn - but maybe it will have some goodness. Apparently the rectangular throat was figured too large for a 10 so Jesse put in four corner blocks. Do you think the modified throat will have any adverse effects ? I assume the original rectangular opening went past a 10" driver's gasket boundary.
I think this horn is about 6 cubic feet, so 1.9 cubic feet larger than the X15 Karlson - it should
be a good comparison IF the Classic scales right and behaves right.
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here's someone's take on the Karlsonator12 - that slit above the aperture seems like a good idea for some Ks -- panels look awfully thin. 18mm Baltic birch is good for a "Karlson 10" - 15mm works too but maybe a bit thin for the back panel of a K10 (bracing between the rear lowpass shelf and rear panel are helpful.)
ad Nerds.dk - Hifi, Stereo & Lyd
ad Nerds.dk - Hifi, Stereo & Lyd
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I put a PAudio BM15CX38 inside a Karlson K15. I modified the inside port to 31/2 inch, for crossover I just take a 3 uf condenser with 2 db attenuation, probably 3 or 4 db was better, before I try a 1,5 Khz crossover but the simple 3uf condenser sound better. I put more damping materiel around the speaker. It's sound very good.
Someone mount the BM15CX38 in Karlson?
Someone mount the BM15CX38 in Karlson?
I have a P-Audio SN15C in K15. One of my K12 is loaded with a BM 12CXA - it doesn't sound good - I know its not the cabinet as the cabinet sounded wonderful in the midrange with a Lafayette SK58 coax. Maybe running just a highpass cap would sound better than my current crossover (?)
do you have pictures of your K15 ?
do you have pictures of your K15 ?
Very Pretty - - in case you need a Karlson logo decal (I could use some for sure)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/237948-speaker-kicks-butt-large-spaces-96.html#post4954248
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/237948-speaker-kicks-butt-large-spaces-96.html#post4954248
speaking of FE206EN, here's a comparison of it to Beta10cx (wrong tweeter polarity) in my 0.62 scaled K15. A little BSC might be used with FE206EN
here's Beta10cx with ASD1001 and Eminence's crossover values - it required "reverse" polarity
Its interesting that the little scaled K with Beta10cx is stronger in the 100-200Hz octave than Beta10cx in
the Karlsonator12
here's Beta10cx with ASD1001 and Eminence's crossover values - it required "reverse" polarity
Its interesting that the little scaled K with Beta10cx is stronger in the 100-200Hz octave than Beta10cx in
the Karlsonator12
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hey xrk971 - where would you locate a port in this particular K-coupler ? What might happen with an alternative port location? The easiest thing I could do is to use a 3" hole saw "somewhere"
the construction on my XK8's reflector used flat panels and full height aperture
here's an audio clip of sax from Alan Parsons' "Soundcheck" with a 1772
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1RYpD9MrV0
the construction on my XK8's reflector used flat panels and full height aperture
here's an audio clip of sax from Alan Parsons' "Soundcheck" with a 1772
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1RYpD9MrV0