A Small Contribution-3D Printed Record Clamp

Attached are PNG's of the components of a 3D printed record clamp, and a photo of a completed unit. If there is any interest I will be happy to post the the Freecad files (better, because then it is easy to make your own modifications) and the .STL files. I am making these available under the CC-BY-SA license (that is the sharing license). The design was inspired by several designs that I have seen on thingiverse (for example Ghostly Record Clamp by Feroto - Thingiverse ). None that I saw included the knurling (which helps to twist the knob), the locking wings (which helps with tightening the knob) or the strobe pattern (yes that's a strobe pattern that really works with a 60 hz light).


I made this on an inexpensive DaVinci Pro 1.0 Jr. printer) using 3D Fuel Pro PLA. It seems to work well on my ancient, but still serviceable Thorens TD-160 with home made record mat.


Thanks for looking.
 

Attachments

  • knob.PNG
    knob.PNG
    70.1 KB · Views: 168
  • Collet.PNG
    Collet.PNG
    48 KB · Views: 170
  • Plate.PNG
    Plate.PNG
    51.7 KB · Views: 165
  • Completed Assembly.jpeg
    Completed Assembly.jpeg
    47.5 KB · Views: 173
Herewith the .STL files. The Freecad files, even zipped, are larger than what diyaudio permits (about 6 mb for two of the three). I'll have to figure out a better

way to distribute them-or I can just e-mail them..



By the way, you can see the formula to calculate the number of bars here:Howmany lines on a strobe disc?- Vinyl Engine


but for Europe, the formula yields 180 bars for 33 1/3. (in the US and Japan it is 216).
 

Attachments

  • record_clamp_stl.zip
    676.8 KB · Views: 18
Files are on the way. I can't really tell you what the best filament to use is. I decided that I like, for my printer, 3D-Fuel, Pro PLA. As far as I can tell, this is what is also known as a "Tough" PLA. I find the 3D-Fuel Pro PLA filament to be reasonably priced compared to other tough PLA's, easy to work with and pretty, well, tough. In an earlier version I was making the collets out of PETG because the cheaper PLA I was using kept cracking when I tightened down the knob. But I couldn't (on my machine) get a good finish using PETG (I couldn't eliminate the stringing). I also ended up tweaking the collet design to add a little strength. It seems to work with fine with the Pro PLA.


I have been playing with Cura to do my printing, and still have a lot to learn as to how best to optimize it. I can tell you that I mostly use the default settings for PLA (except temperature) and I am printing at a density of 60%. But this is really going to vary quite a bit depending on your machine.