yes correct, I can switch between two analog sources if you will. The one which is the output of the DDDAC and the source with the cinch inputs (Aux input) with small remark, this is not a TVC it is a switched attenuator...
How to easily apply a reclocker to the S/PDIF input or convert the S/PDIF to a secondary I2S input...
I apologize to all the hardcore Dac-builders on this forum, for which this is basic knowledge... It is also documented really good on the DDDac website. Anyway, someone out there might find it useful.
While troubleshooting a nonfunctional S/PDIF input with the help of Doede, he showed me how to easily test if the fault was either from the 74VHCT244A I2S-switch/bus-buffer/3.3V to 5.0V converter chip or the WM8804 S/PDIF receiver chip.
Simply lift one leg of the 3 100R resistors from the solder-pad closest to the 74VHCT244A.
Now I could send in an alternative I2S-signal from a Raspberry Pi and test if there was sound by soldering 3 wires onto these pads (or underneath the board). There was sound and the 74VHCT244A was fine.
Next I soldered 3 cables onto the lifted part of the 3 resistors and connected these to the normal 10-pin header I2S connector. Applying a S/PDIF signal, converted to i2S, now flowed into the 74VHCT244A's normal I2S input. There was also sound here, and even when I reconnected the 3 resistors??? The WM8804 was also fine and I never found the real cause of the problem. It's fine now...
I did however realize how easy it is to breakout the I2S-signal (converted from S/PDIF) and route this into a reclocker board like the FiFoPi board... and then back into the 74VHCT244A chip. The regular I2S-S/PDIF switch would still work fine since it really switches between the 74VHCT244A chips 2 I2S inputs.
Alternatively, to one could bypass the S/PDIF input and instead connect a secondary external I2S-input, if you should need one of these.
You could of course also do it like Doede and connect a relay-board in front of the normal I2S input. This could also be implemented fairly easy and be controlled using a mechanical switch, or an Arduino controller-board for the more advanced users. I guess that would be the preferred way of adding more I2S inputs but maybe the breakout I2S-idea could be interesting for some S/PDIF users out there, who also wants to try the reclocking fun with only minimal soldering
I apologize to all the hardcore Dac-builders on this forum, for which this is basic knowledge... It is also documented really good on the DDDac website. Anyway, someone out there might find it useful.
While troubleshooting a nonfunctional S/PDIF input with the help of Doede, he showed me how to easily test if the fault was either from the 74VHCT244A I2S-switch/bus-buffer/3.3V to 5.0V converter chip or the WM8804 S/PDIF receiver chip.
Simply lift one leg of the 3 100R resistors from the solder-pad closest to the 74VHCT244A.
Now I could send in an alternative I2S-signal from a Raspberry Pi and test if there was sound by soldering 3 wires onto these pads (or underneath the board). There was sound and the 74VHCT244A was fine.
Next I soldered 3 cables onto the lifted part of the 3 resistors and connected these to the normal 10-pin header I2S connector. Applying a S/PDIF signal, converted to i2S, now flowed into the 74VHCT244A's normal I2S input. There was also sound here, and even when I reconnected the 3 resistors??? The WM8804 was also fine and I never found the real cause of the problem. It's fine now...
I did however realize how easy it is to breakout the I2S-signal (converted from S/PDIF) and route this into a reclocker board like the FiFoPi board... and then back into the 74VHCT244A chip. The regular I2S-S/PDIF switch would still work fine since it really switches between the 74VHCT244A chips 2 I2S inputs.
Alternatively, to one could bypass the S/PDIF input and instead connect a secondary external I2S-input, if you should need one of these.
You could of course also do it like Doede and connect a relay-board in front of the normal I2S input. This could also be implemented fairly easy and be controlled using a mechanical switch, or an Arduino controller-board for the more advanced users. I guess that would be the preferred way of adding more I2S inputs but maybe the breakout I2S-idea could be interesting for some S/PDIF users out there, who also wants to try the reclocking fun with only minimal soldering
Non Over-Sampling…. Or in this case also non digital filtering
404 …. not good !thanks for the hint on the link - it is fixed now....
Thanks Doede and Extreme_Boky, I'll leave the F6 as is then. Will report back once the build is complete.
Hi Doede. I'm the guy that bought Leifs old boards and I'm somewhat confused by the whole balanced / transformer coupling.
I have a TVC with Cinch input (or RCA if you will) how do I connect pos/neg/common from the DDDAC ?
thanks.
PS: please forgive me for not reading the previous 794 pages to find the answer.. DS.
I have a TVC with Cinch input (or RCA if you will) how do I connect pos/neg/common from the DDDAC ?
thanks.
PS: please forgive me for not reading the previous 794 pages to find the answer.. DS.
As long as neither of the Two TVC inputs is connected to ground, you can just connect it to POS and NEG - do not connect anything to the common...
Hi all,
Hope you can point me in the right direction with the following:
I have replaced my hifiberry hat with a Fifopi with stock clocks. Music is coming out of my device however I do not like the sound at all. It seems as if soundstage has collapsed. I have connected the FIFOPI J5 to the dddac onboard 5v power supply and J3 with the supply that was connected to the hifiberry before (Salas l-adapter psu).
Volumio was set to Generic I2S to get it working. It also seems that volume is down compared to hifiberry.
Any idea what could be wrong? I would not expect that the stock clocks version would be (far) worse than the Hifiberry hat?
Could it be in wiring of I2S lines?
TIA
Robin
Hope you can point me in the right direction with the following:
I have replaced my hifiberry hat with a Fifopi with stock clocks. Music is coming out of my device however I do not like the sound at all. It seems as if soundstage has collapsed. I have connected the FIFOPI J5 to the dddac onboard 5v power supply and J3 with the supply that was connected to the hifiberry before (Salas l-adapter psu).
Volumio was set to Generic I2S to get it working. It also seems that volume is down compared to hifiberry.
Any idea what could be wrong? I would not expect that the stock clocks version would be (far) worse than the Hifiberry hat?
Could it be in wiring of I2S lines?
TIA
Robin
Power connections are ok - If you connect theI2S wrongly you will have NO sound.
Even with standard clocks you should have a normal good sound, like before
The "less volume" sounds not ok and indicated a software setting wrong (volume setting somewhere?)
so how much volume are we talking? Just play a track (anything between 100 and 1kHz will do for most multimeters) at 0dBFS and measure the output of the DAC at POS and/or NEG versus Common. You should get ~ 1.2 Vac eff.
.
Seems another issue
Thanks again, checked and OK. I connected everything and powered up, no sound. ( just hum.. ) The schematics that came with the boards are not correct, and I'm not able to tell by looking under it, but am I supposed to connect "pin to ground" to get the SPDIF signal through ?
I have to get I2s to GND to get output indeed.
What are you guys selecting as audio resampling option in Volumio with FifoPi?
I got stereo output to work only if I select target bit depth 24, is that how it's supposed to be?
Also, how did you all set the jumper on FifoPi with the dddac?
What are you guys selecting as audio resampling option in Volumio with FifoPi?
I got stereo output to work only if I select target bit depth 24, is that how it's supposed to be?
Also, how did you all set the jumper on FifoPi with the dddac?
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Thanks again, checked and OK. I connected everything and powered up, no sound. ( just hum.. ) The schematics that came with the boards are not correct, and I'm not able to tell by looking under it, but am I supposed to connect "pin to ground" to get the SPDIF signal through ?
yes there´s supposed to be an optional switch there for selecting s/pdif or I2S source
the 3 pins (I2S, GND, SPDIF) are to select between usb and spdif input, without either one connected to GND it's normal to not have sound
As it seems that you use spdif as input you want to connect the spdif pin to the (gnd) pin yes.
That said, in your picture there seems to be missing oscillator and caps, which i guess you would need when using spdif, perhaps someone with knowledge of your board can help further.
Greetings Oli
PS: Just saw the WM8804 transceiver.... I guess you are fine without the "extra" oscillator and caps?! Don't bother all this when it plays after connecting the SPDIF pin to GND ;D
As it seems that you use spdif as input you want to connect the spdif pin to the (gnd) pin yes.
That said, in your picture there seems to be missing oscillator and caps, which i guess you would need when using spdif, perhaps someone with knowledge of your board can help further.
Greetings Oli
PS: Just saw the WM8804 transceiver.... I guess you are fine without the "extra" oscillator and caps?! Don't bother all this when it plays after connecting the SPDIF pin to GND ;D
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