Greetings,
New member. I’m sort of stuck on the input. The purchased kit has both balanced and unbalanced input hardware. The only input on the module is Vi+ and Vi-. I’m not sure if both balanced and rca input jacks use this one connection, or if it’s one way or the other?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
New member. I’m sort of stuck on the input. The purchased kit has both balanced and unbalanced input hardware. The only input on the module is Vi+ and Vi-. I’m not sure if both balanced and rca input jacks use this one connection, or if it’s one way or the other?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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What kit if I may ask?
A differential ("bal") input is ment to be hooked up to a differential source where 3 wires are used; +/-/0, thus in/out is matching.
If a two wire source (+/0), one can hookup like:
Out---In
+ --- +
0 --- 0
0 --- -
If your kit contains an active receiver board with SE-2-Diff conversion, this is taken care of on that board and the board to amp connection is differential. It would mean that that board has both type of connections; RCA and XLR..
Good luck!
//
A differential ("bal") input is ment to be hooked up to a differential source where 3 wires are used; +/-/0, thus in/out is matching.
If a two wire source (+/0), one can hookup like:
Out---In
+ --- +
0 --- 0
0 --- -
If your kit contains an active receiver board with SE-2-Diff conversion, this is taken care of on that board and the board to amp connection is differential. It would mean that that board has both type of connections; RCA and XLR..
Good luck!
//
This is a kit from https://ghentaudio.com/products/bh315c-m1xr
I have everything installed but when I have the RCA jack plugged into the board there’s all sorts of static and noise. RCA jack couldn’t be more simple to solder. POS/neg.
I have everything installed but when I have the RCA jack plugged into the board there’s all sorts of static and noise. RCA jack couldn’t be more simple to solder. POS/neg.
Yes, that will work. But you may not be able to achieve full output from the 1000as without a buffer. The amp requires 4v p-p input to achieve full output, and most RCA outputs are 2v p-p.
Yup. Low level hum making me crazy. Not a bad little case. This module is used in the Rotel RB-1092. Powerful amp..
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Ground loops and maximum output is why I went from a mini-DSP 2x4HD with RCA outs to a mini-DSP FLEX with balanced outputs. I needed a ground loop isolator on my USB input to get rid of the ground loop from the computer (NAS). But that solution was limiting my output to 48KHz through the USB. Balanced differential is just so much better when it comes to noise isolation. The 1000as is a beast when it comes to power, yet still has a low noise floor. So much better than the cheap Chinese amps found on Ebay and AliExpress.
BTW, I have the same case. It is actually well made. You may want to add ferrites to the outputs to limit RF output per the Icepower Spec sheet.
I’ve two preamps that have balanced outputs, so I may re-solder the rca input over to the balanced. The case has a toggle switch to go with the rca or to balanced. I may use it.
I went out to my old company for a little aid. Confirmed my one amp is dead. I put my new amp module in. Wiring is straight forward. When it’s all in, I plugin the source via rca and there’s the noise again..just awful. Remove the rca, all quiet. It’s grounded perfectly. I added one more ground point to the module.
I brought it home to my Rotel system, all plugged in. Interesting, that when I unplugged the preamplifier, the static roar came back….loud.
With the preamp and the other two Rotel amps plugged in, the hum is still there, but very low. The current it provides to my massive RBH Reference sub is crazy. I could drop my Sheetrock walls should I desire it.
I brought it home to my Rotel system, all plugged in. Interesting, that when I unplugged the preamplifier, the static roar came back….loud.
With the preamp and the other two Rotel amps plugged in, the hum is still there, but very low. The current it provides to my massive RBH Reference sub is crazy. I could drop my Sheetrock walls should I desire it.
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OK, slow down. Your power connection - from your pic it appears you may have the L (Live) and N (Neutral) reversed. If your switch is on top in back, you are switching your Neutral leg. Please check this first.
Please post a closeup of the connector that has inputs.
These kits are really not documented properly...but do check power connection first
OK, the switch is both nuetral and live, but still looks off...follow pic below - outputs go to Amp power connector
Please post a closeup of the connector that has inputs.
These kits are really not documented properly...but do check power connection first
OK, the switch is both nuetral and live, but still looks off...follow pic below - outputs go to Amp power connector
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OK, looks llike your switch is just reversed, but L and N connected correctly...cannot see your Mains Ground connection
Post pic of your input connector. I just used the three connections below for XLR. For Single Ended, just tie the AGRD to the neg input (Vi-)
Post pic of your input connector. I just used the three connections below for XLR. For Single Ended, just tie the AGRD to the neg input (Vi-)
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Where does this yellow wire on mains ground pin go? The ground pin on amp power connector (your black wire) should go to chassis Screw stud and chassis screw stud wire should go to the Mains Ground on power plug. That should be all that is needed...You have that second red wire connected to amp chassis bolt going somewhere...dont beleive you need that...
Yellow wire looks like it goes under the amp module? Connect it to Earth chassis Screw Stud
Yellow wire looks like it goes under the amp module? Connect it to Earth chassis Screw Stud
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At last, noise free power that could be possibly be dangerous. My many thanks to you for helping.
