I haven't built the F6 yet, the chassis is not quite done and still at the machinist...
The F4 is my favorite Pass amp so far, and by a wide margin. (But that is comparing Ferrari's, they are all wonderful...)
buzz really likes his F6, and I am very enthusiastc to give it a try.
But which is best? You have to build them all to find out. 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
The F4 is my favorite Pass amp so far, and by a wide margin. (But that is comparing Ferrari's, they are all wonderful...)
buzz really likes his F6, and I am very enthusiastc to give it a try.
But which is best? You have to build them all to find out. 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
I know I know 🙂
Just thinking out-loud 🙂
I guess it will be F6 for me first... but I really want to give F4 a try as well 🙂
Double SSLV BiBs powering BA3 on full dual mono and then driving F6 and/or F4 directly should be really interesting too 🙂
I just worry what coupling caps I will find to match the quality of the Russian FT3s on my DCB1...
Just thinking out-loud 🙂
I guess it will be F6 for me first... but I really want to give F4 a try as well 🙂
Double SSLV BiBs powering BA3 on full dual mono and then driving F6 and/or F4 directly should be really interesting too 🙂
I just worry what coupling caps I will find to match the quality of the Russian FT3s on my DCB1...
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pictures are missing
Hi 6L6....what happened to your pics for the build thread, a week ago they were still here?
Hi 6L6....what happened to your pics for the build thread, a week ago they were still here?
valvesound -
I've run into bandwidth issues with the hosting site I use... I'm at the free limit and am not sure how I am going to proceed... Starting to pay for something has it's pitfalls as I would then have to pay indefinitely...
Anyway, the good news is that the Free limit is a monthly issue and will reset in a couple days (Anniversary of my joining day, not end of month, so it's an odd date...)
My suggestion is as follows;
Wait until you see everything again.
Save the page locally so you can view it off-line. -- This way you have it and are not at the mercy of photobucket.
I will do something in the near future to alleviate this problem. Probably a PDF and a re-make of the photo part of the thread and host all the photos locally. Like anything, it's going to take a bit of time.
I've run into bandwidth issues with the hosting site I use... I'm at the free limit and am not sure how I am going to proceed... Starting to pay for something has it's pitfalls as I would then have to pay indefinitely...
Anyway, the good news is that the Free limit is a monthly issue and will reset in a couple days (Anniversary of my joining day, not end of month, so it's an odd date...)
My suggestion is as follows;
Wait until you see everything again.
Save the page locally so you can view it off-line. -- This way you have it and are not at the mercy of photobucket.
I will do something in the near future to alleviate this problem. Probably a PDF and a re-make of the photo part of the thread and host all the photos locally. Like anything, it's going to take a bit of time.
6L6....a question on the components:
I see the caps (220uF) aren't noted on the BOM?
Where did you buy the 22.1 and 22.1k resistors from? Do they have to be X.1 or can I use 1% 22E and 22k instead?
Thanks
I see the caps (220uF) aren't noted on the BOM?
Where did you buy the 22.1 and 22.1k resistors from? Do they have to be X.1 or can I use 1% 22E and 22k instead?
Thanks
I looked in the diy store and did not see the power supply board where does one find it? Is there a generated parts list any where?
Whould 330uf caps be ok to use on my F4 or should I buy 220uf caps? I have a lot of the 330uf caps.
I can't imagine it would hurt anything to use the 330uF. I would use them.
Maybe someone with more knowledge can verify.
Maybe someone with more knowledge can verify.
My take is that they would produce a longer time constant at turn on that is a good thing . I would say 470 mfd would be fine. You could ask Papa or Zen mod for sure . As long as the voltage rating is high enough you should be fine .
I had a closer look at the simulation.....changing from 220u to 330u has a minuscule effect to the frequency response below 1Hz. The 330u allows lower frequency through. About a 2dB difference at 0.1 Hz. Nothing to be concerned about.
Has anybody auditioned various makes of the caps for C1 and C2? They are signal coupling so I guess have an influence on the sound.
i was looking at Elna Silmic, Nichicon muse ES and FG. Any suggestions?
i was looking at Elna Silmic, Nichicon muse ES and FG. Any suggestions?
Elna RFS, Nichicon FG, KZ. All relatively cheap and basically as good as it gets with electrolytic. You could also try some of the organic polymer Nichicons and Panasonics.
There is a company called Rubicon that makes several styles of quality caps. I've used them alot in SMPs applications because they are the best bang for the buck compared to OsCons etc. They are however, the company that made Black Gate caps! And, I don't doubt you can find similar caps in their line without the Black Gate label that are the same caps. 😀