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Hi Bigun,
Im really interested with these drivers. I have the super 8 and super 12 but im not using them anymore. My current setup is isophon ph2132e crossed around 270hz 1st order with a 15" hawthorne audio mid bass. No measurement were done yet as i don't have equipments yet and crossover point was determined with parts I have on hand. Im thinking of just going fullrane in open baffle. See attached Pics for my current setup.
Could you please point me to the thread where bud purvine had some thoughts on
drivers.
Thanks
I don't if Bud Purvine still contributes here, actually don't know if he's still breathing. I did a search awhile back and kept a copy some of his comments from various places - which means unfortunately I can't you to a specific thread. Bud is a person with great experience and some great insights into drivers - so I put a lot of stock into what he has to say.
As for the AlNiCo version - I don't honestly think I'd want to pay that much extra. And so I didn't. I can't comment on the sound difference from my own experience, but based on people I have asked, people who should know, the difference from the ferrite to the AlNiCo is not huge. But when you are pushing the edge for every little gain, even a small difference is important for some people. And some folks just like to say they have AlNiCo.
I don't entirely agree with this, because what the AN15 can do that no other speaker I have heard can do is faithfully reproduce the dynamics of real instruments.I remember Bob Brines saying once the full range drivers are eq'd flat, they sound very very similar.
EQing a speaker flat has no effect on the dynamic performance of a driver.
know alnico seems to act like a shorting ring.
Phy and musicians stressed better dynamics also in alnico.
It would tough for a true shootout, needing to get the same qts / overhang / etc to compare ferite vs alnico.
A comparison required for sure.
Usually the Alnico magnets create a beefier motor than the ceramics, but, at least in the case of the AN8, the alnico motor is quite a bit wimpier, so needs to be taken with a grain of salt. Seems that could be the case with the 15" too, it is rated 4 dB less efficient.
dave
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I don't entirely agree with this, because what the AN15 can do that no other speaker I have heard can do is faithfully reproduce the dynamics of real instruments.
EQing a speaker flat has no effect on the dynamic performance of a driver.
I have to say the AN15 is the best full range I've yet heard. But I am building with some Alpair 10.3's for a friend and these may finally give me another favourable perspective on full range.
But it sure is nice to behold that 15" driver and it's golden plug - puts a smile on my face.
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I've heard OB before but it wasn't really a full range driver and it was very old and a bit dusty. My previous full range experience has been in boxes - but the issue was treble peakiness and I don't blame the box for that so much.
I had the super 12 before in a box but had to take the back covers off. They sounded great without the back cover. I ultimately had to replace it with an alnico driver thouh. I just like the sound of alnico drivers better. Its just my taste.
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Unfortunately, at my age, the subtleties would be lost.
Do you know how old BudP is?
I reckon I would wager, older than you by quite some margin.
How about Nelson Pass, he's not exactly a spring chicken either.
Edit: I am not arguing for Alnico, I've never done the comparison. Just saying don't underestimate the ear.
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When I think about the room, with the speaker more or less in one corner I wonder if what I really have is an 'Open Baffle with corner loaded horn' - if such a thing exists ?
Building Audio Nirvana 15" speakers into existing cabinets...
All,
I'm making the bold move of doing my first speaker DIY project with something slightly out of the ordinary. The previous owners installed a beautiful (in my humble opinion) wood cabinet that extends the length of the living room. They put speakers in the cabinet previously, but I thought it would be fun to build speakers using the existing cabinetry.
Now, this obviously brings up a lot of challenges, notably that it's likely that a large part of the cabinet will be vibrating - I don't think it's going to be possible to brace the inside of the existing cabinet sufficiently to prevent this from happening. I'd appreciate any thoughts / suggestions on things to add additional bracing from the inside.
There was a bit of discussion earlier in this thread (read all 40 pages) about the purpose of the horizontal brace below the speaker, and that it helps to distribute energy to the side and rear panels. Seeing that the side and rear panels won't actually get any sound out to the listener, and may actually be detrimental, does it make more sense to skip that?
Any suggesting on porting vs. skipping it? I saw a little discussion, but not much on that.
The volume of the cabinet is approx 45.5"H x 22.25"W x 17"D. I was planning to put foam on the side and back internal walls, and doing as much work as I can to seal the speaker cabinet so that there isn't any leakage into the other sections.
Thanks in advance!
All,
I'm making the bold move of doing my first speaker DIY project with something slightly out of the ordinary. The previous owners installed a beautiful (in my humble opinion) wood cabinet that extends the length of the living room. They put speakers in the cabinet previously, but I thought it would be fun to build speakers using the existing cabinetry.
Now, this obviously brings up a lot of challenges, notably that it's likely that a large part of the cabinet will be vibrating - I don't think it's going to be possible to brace the inside of the existing cabinet sufficiently to prevent this from happening. I'd appreciate any thoughts / suggestions on things to add additional bracing from the inside.
There was a bit of discussion earlier in this thread (read all 40 pages) about the purpose of the horizontal brace below the speaker, and that it helps to distribute energy to the side and rear panels. Seeing that the side and rear panels won't actually get any sound out to the listener, and may actually be detrimental, does it make more sense to skip that?
Any suggesting on porting vs. skipping it? I saw a little discussion, but not much on that.
The volume of the cabinet is approx 45.5"H x 22.25"W x 17"D. I was planning to put foam on the side and back internal walls, and doing as much work as I can to seal the speaker cabinet so that there isn't any leakage into the other sections.
Thanks in advance!
Attachments
Looks like you could try an infinite baffle.
Get rid of those doors and get yourself some really thick (eg 35mm) bamboo ply or some other type of wood that compliments the rest of your furniture,
Nice amps by the way 😎
Get rid of those doors and get yourself some really thick (eg 35mm) bamboo ply or some other type of wood that compliments the rest of your furniture,
Nice amps by the way 😎
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Joined 2009
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Well I did try the back on again today. Nope. Took it back off. But I realized I had yet to try this speaker out with my Bryston amp and my YBA CD player with some of my best quality recordings - or at least I don't remember using that combination for a long time as it's usually hooked up to my dynalab FM tuner. So this afternoon I hooked up and spun up a Diana Krall CD. Wow, it sounds good - reminds me that this driver is VERY worthy 😀
The clarify on voices is wonderful.
The clarify on voices is wonderful.
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Thanks for info
Read all 40 pages just bought 3 an cast 15's and 2 cast 8's these will be behind a false screen wall with drivers around 3 ft from back wall I want some serious movie theatre sound. 5.1 on my pioneer avr and for critical listening 2 channel on my Nelson f5. Thinking after reading your thread about doing open baffle phy hp style. But was wondering how critical the front baffle strength will need to be any thoughts would much appreciated
Read all 40 pages just bought 3 an cast 15's and 2 cast 8's these will be behind a false screen wall with drivers around 3 ft from back wall I want some serious movie theatre sound. 5.1 on my pioneer avr and for critical listening 2 channel on my Nelson f5. Thinking after reading your thread about doing open baffle phy hp style. But was wondering how critical the front baffle strength will need to be any thoughts would much appreciated
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