hello everyone,
I am definitely a newb, so i want to share my design and ask for some advice ( any) before i start the build. have a vision for a stereo 3-way bookshelf. I need your help determining if the specs of these components are a good fit, espeasely in the electrical sens, can they all operate together?
here is an image of the box i want to build (10cmX32cmX38cm) , using 10mm birch plywood stacked and glued, the finish layer of the front baffle is 5mm cork sheet. i used WINISD for the box volume and ports design, what do you think of it's looks and design?
I am definitely a newb, so i want to share my design and ask for some advice ( any) before i start the build. have a vision for a stereo 3-way bookshelf. I need your help determining if the specs of these components are a good fit, espeasely in the electrical sens, can they all operate together?
here is an image of the box i want to build (10cmX32cmX38cm) , using 10mm birch plywood stacked and glued, the finish layer of the front baffle is 5mm cork sheet. i used WINISD for the box volume and ports design, what do you think of it's looks and design?
Attachments
Anything else aside, the pre-built crossover probably won't work properly, as it's not designed for those drivers and cabinets. It will make sound, but that's about all. Have you looked for other finished and well designed projects which se those or similar drivers and cabinet?
Geoff
Geoff
Geoff’s first sentence also came out of my brain. A good idea, particularily a newbie, to choose an existing design where someone clever has alredy done the hard work of sorting out the XO. The XO is the hardest, and usually the weakest point of any multi-way loudspeaker. And XO needs to be specificlly designed for the specific drivers and box. Room & support equipment too.
Looks like a vented mid? Not usually a good idea.
And i have a serious dislike of translam builds. You aren’t doing anything exotic shapewize that would warrant translam. Doig it that way will cost more and not work as well.
dave
Looks like a vented mid? Not usually a good idea.
And i have a serious dislike of translam builds. You aren’t doing anything exotic shapewize that would warrant translam. Doig it that way will cost more and not work as well.
dave
There are at least a few 3 way DIY bookshelf designs already out there, here's one I found after a quick Google search:
I'm not endorsing it, haven't heard it etc but maybe something like it might work for you?
Member "Wolfteeth" on this forum has a nice small 3 way, I'll try to find the link.
Geoff
I'm not endorsing it, haven't heard it etc but maybe something like it might work for you?
Member "Wolfteeth" on this forum has a nice small 3 way, I'll try to find the link.
Geoff
Don't. Do more research before purchasing anything.
You can try some project by Scott Hinson first. FB page: DIYRM
Or search his old post here
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/initium-ii-free-diy-loudspeaker-design.312364/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/synergy-horns-dayton-and-prv.244890/
You can try some project by Scott Hinson first. FB page: DIYRM
Or search his old post here
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/initium-ii-free-diy-loudspeaker-design.312364/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/synergy-horns-dayton-and-prv.244890/
There are a lot of solid designs. Look in the Multi-way forum. More than a few solid designs. And keep in mind, the many “towers” you might like, can usually be turned into a smaller box that fits on a stand. You are most interested in the worked out XO.
What size can you tolerate? What would be your preference?
I can’t suggest any. My stand-mounts are usually 1-way.
What kind of kit do you have? The speaker should be considered as part o a system with the amplifier (and whatever connects them).
dave
What size can you tolerate? What would be your preference?
I can’t suggest any. My stand-mounts are usually 1-way.
What kind of kit do you have? The speaker should be considered as part o a system with the amplifier (and whatever connects them).
dave
Well my problem is that I bought the subwoofer driver because of its flat size/price/looks and I take the mid and tweeter are from a small boom box I built a few years ago. The only thing I don't have is the XO... So copying a design is not an option I guess.
When you say "will not work properly" are you saying it will suck? Or not be optimum. I can live with the later, and will upgrade the XO in the future...or build a proper one now (don't know how)
If that thing isn't called the anglerfish then they missed an opportunity. Looks neat, but man that xover looks kinda bad.
Vented mid, yes. According to a Kirby meets audio build and to WINISD it's a much lower F3, so I thought it's a good idea... i think I can close the port if I want or not built it, what do you think?
the translam design is something I want to do. For esthetic/artistic reasons and cost effective (yes) it's an easy fast build thet dose not need an additional finish to hide the real form, it's pure brutalism.
A vebted box rolls off 4th order which makes it more difficult to crossover and it can unload if not properly filtered. you want a smooth roll off — the vented box goes lower (no real advantage) and then plummets.
Not easy, not cheap, not fast to do a translam. And way pricier.
dave
Not easy, not cheap, not fast to do a translam. And way pricier.
dave
It's almost certain that it won't work properly, at the very least, the tweeter will probably play too loud, there won't be any Baffle Step Compensation and the crossover points will probably be the wrong points for your drivers. The sound will likely be bass shy and harsh, but you might get lucky - but is it really worth spending your time and money on something with which you'll be unhappy?
I've done a few comparisons in Xsim, for example, looking at the Dayton BR-1 kit and comparing its custom crossover with one made using values from a speaker calculator and a pre-made Dayton crossover - the results looked, and would have sounded, awful.
I won't ramble on, but here's a discussion I just looked up on Google:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...or-diy-speaker-improvement-restoration.36537/
Geoff
Fine / unseen design and look @SNIRAVIV ! 😎😎😎
Yes, you will have to tweak / design a suitable crossover, but no doubt that you will end with a satisfactory results !
What I always find critical in a 3-way enclosure is the woofer to midrange transistion : where are the voices ?... If the result is not pleasant, try a lower Fc, say circa 400-500Hz, in order to retrieve the voices in your midrange - that can allow it : it may sound more "natural". That's what I did on myDIY 375L Vintage Monitors, where the Fc is 400Hz :
For the same reason, the tweeter to midrange transition is often over 4000Hz. Here I choose 5000Hz.
T
Yes, you will have to tweak / design a suitable crossover, but no doubt that you will end with a satisfactory results !
What I always find critical in a 3-way enclosure is the woofer to midrange transistion : where are the voices ?... If the result is not pleasant, try a lower Fc, say circa 400-500Hz, in order to retrieve the voices in your midrange - that can allow it : it may sound more "natural". That's what I did on myDIY 375L Vintage Monitors, where the Fc is 400Hz :
For the same reason, the tweeter to midrange transition is often over 4000Hz. Here I choose 5000Hz.
T
One of the early mistakes I made in this hobby was taking advice from Kirby. I don't know if he's incompetent, or if he just way over simplifies things for his videos, but speaker design is much MUCH more complicated than he suggests in his videos
@Bryguy There are just too many self proclaimed YT experts out there spreading inaccurate and misleading info. They may have good intentions, but they end up steering people in the wrong direction based on their ignorance. Once you buy the parts and think you'll just "do what he did", you're stuck with the results of a bad design which is hard to correct. The crossover is the most underestimated thing and often the most expensive. Correcting that requires virtually all new parts if the drivers chosen aren't easy to work with (the cheaper ones often aren't).
Not a bad idea. I've done alot of my first designs this way. The cork has the added benefit of surface dampening. Its just usually a crumbly mess to work with if you don't have the right tools.