I hope you are right Phivates - the MTM's I tried in the 80's were a disaster, never tried that again until recently.
Hey folks - if some are you are looking for the 8hr finish that looks pretty darn good, try Valspar (Lowes and Ace) works very well. This is FLAT BLACK Latex Enamel - it would need to be spayed with a cup-gun (the spay gives it a slight gloss)
Hey folks - if some are you are looking for the 8hr finish that looks pretty darn good, try Valspar (Lowes and Ace) works very well. This is FLAT BLACK Latex Enamel - it would need to be spayed with a cup-gun (the spay gives it a slight gloss)
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A little late to the party, but my rock n roll friends prefer this design to every design I've built, regardless of cost.
http://web.archive.org/web/20071207183643/http://www.wadsnet.com/~dtenney/dayton_8MTM.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/20071207183643/http://www.wadsnet.com/~dtenney/dayton_8MTM.htm
Interesting, will check that out.
I found this on a PE page; EV thinks it's a good idea.
Re-tuned my DIY boxes slightly, added 3/4" strips to the slot ports, I think I was hearing a bump around 60hz. (total length is now 6.5"). I don't think they will have a lot of bass, many need bottoms.
[Tweeters should be here today/tomorrow]
I found this on a PE page; EV thinks it's a good idea.
Re-tuned my DIY boxes slightly, added 3/4" strips to the slot ports, I think I was hearing a bump around 60hz. (total length is now 6.5"). I don't think they will have a lot of bass, many need bottoms.
[Tweeters should be here today/tomorrow]
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Integrated Tweeters
The tweeters are so small - didn't have to drill all the way thru box; the "bridge" between the woofers is nice and strong (added 1/2 mdf strip back of baffle).
[my bet is that somebody is using them in a coaxial]
Either they'll sound like Wedding DJ speakers or HiFi - which will be fine either way
woof, did check out the link, very nice; forwarded it to a few friends (who doesn't like a $200 speaker build)
The tweeters are so small - didn't have to drill all the way thru box; the "bridge" between the woofers is nice and strong (added 1/2 mdf strip back of baffle).
[my bet is that somebody is using them in a coaxial]
Either they'll sound like Wedding DJ speakers or HiFi - which will be fine either way
woof, did check out the link, very nice; forwarded it to a few friends (who doesn't like a $200 speaker build)
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Measuring drivers, don't think I'll be at that level for a few years; however would like to be able to use an xo program.
I do have a xo design for this project , will post after some results are in - will try to mesure finished project.
Making boxes is the easy part; have an idea for adding flares to a MTM using "vent strips".
MDF - easy to work with, although very dusty, may order some Medex (wayyy nicer to work with)
SierraPine - Composite Solutions
I do have a xo design for this project , will post after some results are in - will try to mesure finished project.
Making boxes is the easy part; have an idea for adding flares to a MTM using "vent strips".
MDF - easy to work with, although very dusty, may order some Medex (wayyy nicer to work with)
SierraPine - Composite Solutions
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Okay a little head of schedule but here we go and they are sounding very nice.
Bright and cheery and some nice solid bass; no phasing issues left to right. Need a few days to listen to see if I can find something off.
***Really enjoy the set on the floor, could use a little more in the mid, but don't have exact parts as shown in schematic, which are on the way.......... They are 6.5 rumble machines.
but here we go and they are sounding very nice. Bright and cheery and some nice solid bass; no phasing issues left to right. Need a few days to listen to see if I can find something off.
***Really enjoy the set on the floor, could use a little more in the mid, but don't have exact parts as shown in schematic, which are on the way.......... They are 6.5 rumble machines.
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So speaker is up on stool, which is on bench, ear level, the xo is very smooth and thinking these drivers work well together.
Trying a few simple test to see how xo is working; added push buttons (NC) to woofers and tweeters and used generator sweep test.
{I did try to keep still because moving around does not help}
tweeter off - very slight db dip @ 1,300hz
woofers off - very slight db dip @ 1,800hz so thinking xo point is 1,550 (or close to)
also made up reverse toggle switch to check tweeter drop out - which is huge when in reverse.
Trying a few simple test to see how xo is working; added push buttons (NC) to woofers and tweeters and used generator sweep test.
{I did try to keep still because moving around does not help}
tweeter off - very slight db dip @ 1,300hz
woofers off - very slight db dip @ 1,800hz so thinking xo point is 1,550 (or close to)
also made up reverse toggle switch to check tweeter drop out - which is huge when in reverse.
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Sounding better than ever; made small adjustment to notch filter and success!
Also series woofer coil is smaller than post 49, (but larger gauge wire); but now have more of a full body sound.
The series 4.7R for tweeter is larger than planed, but can add parallel resistors; have some .33r here.
The cork-board xo will fit inside speaker box.
(To be clear, only the hands on guy here, didn't design xo)
Will take some measurements next week, just want to listen for a while
Also series woofer coil is smaller than post 49, (but larger gauge wire); but now have more of a full body sound.
The series 4.7R for tweeter is larger than planed, but can add parallel resistors; have some .33r here.
The cork-board xo will fit inside speaker box.
(To be clear, only the hands on guy here, didn't design xo)
Will take some measurements next week, just want to listen for a while
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Well I'm glad this could work out for you. These drivers really do want to work together, every variable I could possibly throw at the simulation maintains good phase alignment, balance, and smooth on AND off axis response. Actually very impressive off axis considering it's an 8" mtm.
You were great to work with to
You were great to work with to
Jay thanks! I know you really put some time into this and it is really appreciated!!
Will try some different resistors for tweeter e.g. 3.3, 3.9.
The MTM's are wayyyy more of a challenge then I realized; which is there is a lot going on when the two woofers combine - the on-off push buttons were quite revealing
Will try some different resistors for tweeter e.g. 3.3, 3.9.
The MTM's are wayyyy more of a challenge then I realized; which is there is a lot going on when the two woofers combine - the on-off push buttons were quite revealing
Did pull these apart, painted and re-assembled.
I found out they need a good deal of speaker wool:
4oz Poly Fill which doesn't absorb anything, but holds/positions the "good" wool close to the speaker drivers.
Added 12oz of typ. speaker wool on top of the 4oz.
[I had a lesser amount and the bass was off , but fine now]
I found out they need a good deal of speaker wool:
4oz Poly Fill which doesn't absorb anything, but holds/positions the "good" wool close to the speaker drivers.
Added 12oz of typ. speaker wool on top of the 4oz.
[I had a lesser amount and the bass was off , but fine now]
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Humor Greebster or trying to tell me something?
My favorite is the 16ohm white pair in the center of the pic, only 23" tall and ROAR like a LION; that's with "overkill" power, but is really stunning/spectacular. You'll soon forget these are low cost, affordable drivers.
The 600 watts does seem to take care of the low volume setting problem with the SF's. I.e. as other folks have mentioned, need to turn up the volume or the woofer/tweeter balance is off.
Again, the woofers don't move much, which is very strange for the amount of bass pouring out of them.
btw, love the RS28F Dayton tweeters, they sound like 2 drivers, mid and tweeter.
Maybe time to jump on-board?
My favorite is the 16ohm white pair in the center of the pic, only 23" tall and ROAR like a LION; that's with "overkill" power, but is really stunning/spectacular. You'll soon forget these are low cost, affordable drivers.
The 600 watts does seem to take care of the low volume setting problem with the SF's. I.e. as other folks have mentioned, need to turn up the volume or the woofer/tweeter balance is off.
Again, the woofers don't move much, which is very strange for the amount of bass pouring out of them.
btw, love the RS28F Dayton tweeters, they sound like 2 drivers, mid and tweeter.
Maybe time to jump on-board?
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Iso
They all sound very nice, and again about the same. All 4 four of the xo's work beautifully.
I did blast the 8" pair for most of the day yesterday, hooked them to the low side of xo and let em rip; they were chugging along like sub-woofers, no problem. The 8" cones were bobbing nicely; how nice would that be to harness that power
...is there such a thing as a Iso 2-way.
Hard to beat that peanutbutter thick bass from a Iso, but would the mid be sacrificed? The 8" SF would be a perfect candidate for a Iso box; 1.5ft3 range.
They all sound very nice, and again about the same. All 4 four of the xo's work beautifully.
I did blast the 8" pair for most of the day yesterday, hooked them to the low side of xo and let em rip; they were chugging along like sub-woofers, no problem. The 8" cones were bobbing nicely; how nice would that be to harness that power
...is there such a thing as a Iso 2-way.Hard to beat that peanutbutter thick bass from a Iso, but would the mid be sacrificed? The 8" SF would be a perfect candidate for a Iso box; 1.5ft3 range.
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