Yes the b200 has a high QTS (.76) so i dont think bass reflex would be a good idea for it, and the SEAS FA22 are really expensive, but could be worth it.
what about the fostex 8" , and what size sub would you recommend it be paired with?
also, we are looking for a technical consultant to help us, if you guys would be interested or know anyone, please send some information about yourself to 343sound343@gmail.com
thank you !
"really expensive" is relative. Lowther, AES, Cube, voxativ …
But (excluding optional passive XO), about the same price as all 6 of the drivers for the Tysen V2 WAW.
You want 8” and have it sound good, it usually means you have to spend more money than you would for an equivalent quality 5”.
dave
At what frequency? What 8” can do that? Do we have a need for such levels? Average or peak?
It is a midTweeter and to som extent wher eit is XOed will affect how loud it can play.
dave
It is a midTweeter and to som extent wher eit is XOed will affect how loud it can play.
dave
I’m a big fan of SBAcoustics drivers.
very good quality, reasonably priced.
The SB20FRPC30-8 is a full range driver that got very good reviews here.
Connect them directly when inside for background music, and mount them on a MLTL woofer base (for example the SB23NRXS45-8) with powered amps and DSP for outside more lively music. Cut the SB20 at 200Hz+ rather steep with DSP and you will not have excursion issues.
very good quality, reasonably priced.
The SB20FRPC30-8 is a full range driver that got very good reviews here.
Connect them directly when inside for background music, and mount them on a MLTL woofer base (for example the SB23NRXS45-8) with powered amps and DSP for outside more lively music. Cut the SB20 at 200Hz+ rather steep with DSP and you will not have excursion issues.
Obviously there is a wide range of 8"
But never looked at driving them so hard.
But looked and modeled what I had in my library.
Pretty consistent range among many mentioned.
Far as thermal most are 45 to 65 watts
and with 1.5 to 2mm linear travel.
It took a highpass around 200/300 Hz
and 108 to 111 dB seemed most realistic.
That is tippy top of thermal range.
For most of the HiFi type drivers.
Far as linear travel , wasnt as bad as I thought.
Some drivers have up to 2mm to 4mm
Non issue, Power was defining factor.
Basically as mentioned at 45 to 65 watts
on highpass. 108 to 111 dB
Surprised excursion usually below
2mm. Thermal keeps them from going higher.
Far as " design" just need a sub with decent
top end detail and crossover be near typical
baffle step up high for a "sub" 200 to 300 Hz
to feasible push 45 to 65 watt rated 8"
at high levels
But never looked at driving them so hard.
But looked and modeled what I had in my library.
Pretty consistent range among many mentioned.
Far as thermal most are 45 to 65 watts
and with 1.5 to 2mm linear travel.
It took a highpass around 200/300 Hz
and 108 to 111 dB seemed most realistic.
That is tippy top of thermal range.
For most of the HiFi type drivers.
Far as linear travel , wasnt as bad as I thought.
Some drivers have up to 2mm to 4mm
Non issue, Power was defining factor.
Basically as mentioned at 45 to 65 watts
on highpass. 108 to 111 dB
Surprised excursion usually below
2mm. Thermal keeps them from going higher.
Far as " design" just need a sub with decent
top end detail and crossover be near typical
baffle step up high for a "sub" 200 to 300 Hz
to feasible push 45 to 65 watt rated 8"
at high levels
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Yes, I posted some and 'proved' it math wise it was likely needed for the intended app or even some folk's HT apps I've been involved with over the decades.
The one's you listed either have abysmal efficiency and/or too low a power rating regardless of the BW for this app unless multiples are used.
To be honest I think 117 db is more than what’s needed, it’s an outdoor party but just 30-50 people casually in the daytime.
If what Perceval said, that I could “take the SB20FRPC30-8 full range and mount them on a MLTL woofer base (for example the SB23NRXS45-8) with powered amps and DSP for outside more lively music, and Cut the SB20 at 200Hz+ rather steep with DSP and you will not have excursion issues.” Is true, then I would be a happy camper ! As long as it’s at 100 dB range is ok.
As for what whitedragon said, I’m kind of confused because I don’t know many of the terms like thermal extension , I’m sorry I’m a noob. I still appreciate your response and opinion on the SB tho
If what Perceval said, that I could “take the SB20FRPC30-8 full range and mount them on a MLTL woofer base (for example the SB23NRXS45-8) with powered amps and DSP for outside more lively music, and Cut the SB20 at 200Hz+ rather steep with DSP and you will not have excursion issues.” Is true, then I would be a happy camper ! As long as it’s at 100 dB range is ok.
As for what whitedragon said, I’m kind of confused because I don’t know many of the terms like thermal extension , I’m sorry I’m a noob. I still appreciate your response and opinion on the SB tho
Depends on the music genre and how compressed your music is, but historically this is a very common requirement for such apps and better to have too much than wind up having to accept audible distortion in some situations, especially if it's in the critical 300-8 kHz speech BW.
Dunno, didn't have time to 'run the numbers', but agree with severely limiting the low end for indoors, hence the 'sealed box' recommendation.
Speakers are basically a solenoid driven piston, so goes through frequency dependent heating/cooling cycles and as it stays somewhat heated up during a performance, especially a ~continuous one, it alter's its performance parameter specs for the worst (AKA thermal power distortion), though normally this is only in the < ~500 Hz BW unless pushed really hard, so by limiting at least the <80-120 BW to a separate sub is a good plan, especially if the speakers are up high in a room and not near any cooling vents.
Speakers are basically a solenoid driven piston, so goes through frequency dependent heating/cooling cycles and as it stays somewhat heated up during a performance, especially a ~continuous one, it alter's its performance parameter specs for the worst (AKA thermal power distortion), though normally this is only in the < ~500 Hz BW unless pushed really hard, so by limiting at least the <80-120 BW to a separate sub is a good plan, especially if the speakers are up high in a room and not near any cooling vents.
Re 'compression', wasn't aware of this, so you can set your own dynamic headroom to 'taste' or driver specs/whatever. Wasted my time posting all the other. 
Which type of subwoofer enclosures are most efficient/suited for outside use placed at ground level, as I assume they will be?
Cheers!
Cheers!
@Richard Ellis Wouldnt it be better to aim for more modest ~40hz extension for such outside PA purpose?
Cheers!
Cheers!
Would you kindly explain what unloading and its consequences implicates in speaker physics? Preferably simple for non native English speakers. Im quite sure its something I wish to consider in future builds. Cheers and thanks!
@planet10 WAW in speaker terms means? Wish they forum vocabulary would come true, so us newbies dont have to bother people. I might make a thread proposing a new atempt. Sorry🥴
Edit: I will go with Woofer Assisted Wideband if not corrected😊-That took some brainsearch..
Edit: I will go with Woofer Assisted Wideband if not corrected😊-That took some brainsearch..
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In layman's terms (this isn't absolutely 'accurate', but the analogy is close enough to give an idea), the air in the cabinet of a vented box acts like a spring that couples the rear of the driver to the mass of air in the vent. If we stick with 'normal' vented boxes, they will resonate at a given frequency, in the same way as if you blow across the neck of a bottle. At that frequency, the enclosure resonance heavily loads the driver, restricting its movement. Below that frequency though, it no longer loads the driver cone, so if you feed the speaker with a signal that contains a large amount of information below the tuning frequency, you will see the driver moving to very high excursions as it's trying to move air without any help from the cabinet. Sooner or later, you'll run out of available mechanical travel (a driver can only move so far), and either the suspension will bottom out (not great) or the voice coil will smack into the back-plate of the driver's motor (bad).