FWIW........I have/had an F4 and also a 300B SET (Tubelab TSE)
A 300B SET (6-8 watts output) should drive 93db speakers to a very comfortable level. I listened to that setup for years before deciding to build some 97db speakers, mainly because I had some 97db ribbons hanging around.....allowing me to not have to max out the volume knob occasionally.
In my experience you need a preamp with lots of gain to drive the F4........mine wasn't doing it for me and I ended up converting it to an F5.
A 300B SET (6-8 watts output) should drive 93db speakers to a very comfortable level. I listened to that setup for years before deciding to build some 97db speakers, mainly because I had some 97db ribbons hanging around.....allowing me to not have to max out the volume knob occasionally.
In my experience you need a preamp with lots of gain to drive the F4........mine wasn't doing it for me and I ended up converting it to an F5.
Unless you have a big room, have 93db speakers but with system impedance falling pretty low somewhere along the AF band, play them pretty loudly at ~ 100Hz or lower, while perhaps also not having or wanting powered subs, it seems hard to imagine that 8 or 9 wpc from the F4 wouldn't work quite well. So how could 14v into the F4 not produce at least 11 or 12 wpc? I would therefore expect to have great sound when these new speakers arrive. And a shootout with my stock J2 amp should also prove exciting. But I really envy you your 300B amp! Is it everything you expected?In my experience you need a preamp with lots of gain to drive the F4........mine wasn't doing it for me and I ended up converting it to an F5.
http://tubelab.com/personal/we-have-moved/
My setup is in a pretty large room with a vaulted ceiling.....
My Tubelab 300B TSE is my favorite amp; I have 2, a 300B version and a 45 version. The 300B has been in my system for years now. I have DIY powered subs (one in need or repair now that I'm thinking about it), 300B driving mid-woofers and Poindexter's EL-34 Music Machine (triode PP EL-34) on tweeter duty using Mini-DSP. Speakers are open baffle FaitalPro 6FE200's (2x) and tweeters are fountek ribbons.
I still have the F4 stuffed boards..in case I feel like trying them again someday, but I guess I'm into the zero global feedback tube sound....lol
My Tubelab 300B TSE is my favorite amp; I have 2, a 300B version and a 45 version. The 300B has been in my system for years now. I have DIY powered subs (one in need or repair now that I'm thinking about it), 300B driving mid-woofers and Poindexter's EL-34 Music Machine (triode PP EL-34) on tweeter duty using Mini-DSP. Speakers are open baffle FaitalPro 6FE200's (2x) and tweeters are fountek ribbons.
I still have the F4 stuffed boards..in case I feel like trying them again someday, but I guess I'm into the zero global feedback tube sound....lol
Think about the factors that affect the "sound" of a 'typical' 2 stage, No feedback single ended 2A3 amplifier (if you agree that is 'typical').
One:
The input/driver tube type and manufacturer; the 2A3 tube manufacturer; the partial cancellation of the 2nd Harmonic Distortion caused by the interaction of the input/driver tube and the 2A3. And, the voltages, currents, and plate loads: on the input/driver tube, and on the 2A3 tube.
Two:
The output transformer Quality; primary impedance; primary inductance; level of pre-saturation power versus low frequencies; and distributed capacitances and leakage inductance.
Three:
The loudspeaker; the interaction of the amplifier damping factor with the loudspeaker impedance versus frequency; the room dimensions; reflections and absorptions; and the loudspeaker setup of location, toe-in, etc.
Remeber, the 2A3 amplifier is only 1 part of the complete Hi Fi Stereo playback System.
It can not be the only influencer of the "sound" of your playback system.
Expecting one part of a system to fix an un-wanted characteristic "sound", might be over optimistic.
Often, a 2A3 amplifier is most influential on the 'sound' of a System, when it is simple: A CD player; 2A3 Amplifier; and loudspeaker.
One:
The input/driver tube type and manufacturer; the 2A3 tube manufacturer; the partial cancellation of the 2nd Harmonic Distortion caused by the interaction of the input/driver tube and the 2A3. And, the voltages, currents, and plate loads: on the input/driver tube, and on the 2A3 tube.
Two:
The output transformer Quality; primary impedance; primary inductance; level of pre-saturation power versus low frequencies; and distributed capacitances and leakage inductance.
Three:
The loudspeaker; the interaction of the amplifier damping factor with the loudspeaker impedance versus frequency; the room dimensions; reflections and absorptions; and the loudspeaker setup of location, toe-in, etc.
Remeber, the 2A3 amplifier is only 1 part of the complete Hi Fi Stereo playback System.
It can not be the only influencer of the "sound" of your playback system.
Expecting one part of a system to fix an un-wanted characteristic "sound", might be over optimistic.
Often, a 2A3 amplifier is most influential on the 'sound' of a System, when it is simple: A CD player; 2A3 Amplifier; and loudspeaker.