You mean 'competition'?
No, but many here find it important that technical info is correct. After all, you wouldn't want to build something on wrong info and then have it fail, right?
Jan
No, but many here find it important that technical info is correct. After all, you wouldn't want to build something on wrong info and then have it fail, right?
Jan
you meant you have correct information then, let's hear it once and for all: how likely you find people is committed just because you of sounded or unsound posted something without digested it. So if I make some mistakes say in tube models posts >200, how many people already dead by your reasoning?
Let it go. We were discussion heater-cathode voltages. Your info was incorrect. That's all.
You can have the last word.
Jan
You can have the last word.
Jan
It's much better you sell your idea in your own articles, don't try to quote me without making sure if you know the entire story, not half truth by your friend who cannot refrain to post unprepared. Damage already done.
I'm just going to do a SE with a choke loaded 6J51P (triode strapped) driver. On the 6C33C, I will run about 275v on the plate and 175-200ma with cathode bias. I already have the 12v toroid and will use that for the heaters.
I don't have any 6C33C datasheet handy at the moment, nor did the OP exactly specify whether he wants to connect more than one tubes' filaments in series or in parallel. But I seem to recall that the 6C33's heater consists of two individual filaments put into two cathode sleeves - similar to 12AT7's and others. Hence I interpret the original question to be related to just one tube. In this case it doesn't matter how the heater halves are connected - see 12AT7 again. Due to the huge heater current draw, I'd prefer series connection and 12.6 V feed.
To that weird side discussion: If a tube suffers from an internal arcing or meltdown between cathode and plate, you've got some much more bigger issue with it than exceeding it's cathode to heater voltage rating, I'd say.
Best regards!
For 6C33C: whatever is easy.
When grid bias and signals are a Volt or so, careful heater biasing may reduce hum/buzz in heater leakage.
But any reasonable use of 6C33C has 70V or more of grid signal! It is about a hundred times less sensitive to such disturbance than your little tubes.