With dual rectifiers you should be fine with something in the range of 100uF. You might need to get a bit clever mounting them, depending on whether or not you can fit smaller mounting brackets. If a CLC filter is used the cap after the choke can be a rather larger value.
It's not a question of swapping the big caps for something smaller, but instead changing the load the rectifier is switching into.
You need to draw out the circuit to determine what's there, it's more than just the big cap after the rectifier. Blindly swapping caps isn't always the answer.
EDIT: this is not trying to contradict what Kevin said, I didn't see his most recent post before typing. 🙂
You need to draw out the circuit to determine what's there, it's more than just the big cap after the rectifier. Blindly swapping caps isn't always the answer.
EDIT: this is not trying to contradict what Kevin said, I didn't see his most recent post before typing. 🙂
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Also, does anyone know what this is? It's connected to the only cap I did not replace...
That looks like a bridge rectifier, maybe for a DC heater supply. They're sometimes used to separate signal ground from safety ground/chassis, but this has an electrolytic across it, so probably a heater or bias supply. You'll be able to tell by watching where the wires go.
All good fortune,
Chris
Thanks Chris! I thought it might have something to do the auto bias? But it looks like it goes to the heaters of all the tubes.
Auto bias won't be wanting fixed Voltages. I'm now concerned this has been modified. Did you buy it new or used?
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