Take a look at some Accuton drivers, most of them have a smooth rolloff, no nasty +10db breakups that are difficult to tame.
I tested my accutons without any filtering and they sounded very smooth, no ear-shredding cone breakup sound like from a pure alu driver.
I never liked small dome drivers, it puts the crossover point in the frequency range of the human voice. I rather like a driver that can do 200-3000.
I tested my accutons without any filtering and they sounded very smooth, no ear-shredding cone breakup sound like from a pure alu driver.
I never liked small dome drivers, it puts the crossover point in the frequency range of the human voice. I rather like a driver that can do 200-3000.
I would give 8 to all. It is an excellent mid-dome. Bandwidth is rather limited, from 800Hz to 4kHz.
A good mid to consider is the 5" Audax HM130CO. I have it with a Heil AMT. You will be able to go pretty low with this Audax. Soundwise, it's fantastic. A bit pricey though.
For less than half the price, consider Zaph ZA14. It doesn't sound as wonderful as the Audax but still has very "Clean" mids. I just finished re-working this driver. Click here for details.
The bass driver is an 8" Kevlar - Usher 8137A. This driver sounds like the famous Scanspeak.
Attachments
Which is only usable to 2500: http://medleysmusings.com/bohlender-graebenar-neo10-planar-transducer/
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Lynn Olson generally dislikes them. He also hasn't found a decent replacement for the Vifa P13 midwoofer. There's a search on
According to MedleysMusings by ErinH, the SS10F is not as good a midrange as bigger cousin 12MU http://medleysmusings.com/driver-tests-master-list/ These tests include Klippel method but written reports are not easy to compare.
Dome midranges have awful dispersion in their break-up region. If you plan on using them up to 3 kHz or so this is probably not an issue. If you do plan on using them higher up, use a metal or ceramic dome.
Softer cone midranges can have somewhat wider dispersion than stiff cone drivers. A good example is the Seas MCA15RCY. Added bonus is that such drivers will perform much better at lower crossover frequencies. A larger driver may also have less problems with edge diffraction in the midrange if you're not planning on adding a large edge radius.
Softer cone midranges can have somewhat wider dispersion than stiff cone drivers. A good example is the Seas MCA15RCY. Added bonus is that such drivers will perform much better at lower crossover frequencies. A larger driver may also have less problems with edge diffraction in the midrange if you're not planning on adding a large edge radius.
Yeah, and while doing this the voice coil simply vaporizes.
Come on, who cares about Xmax with a midrange?
dome mids are not popular but this Zaph's design is rated top class Zaph|Audio - ZDT3.5 it uses Dayton RS52 dome, it has diameter of 52mm (2") cloth dome. Don't expect much bass but dispersion is wide.
RS52 is aluminum dome, not cloth...hence the sharp breakup mode typical for metal domes
Dayton Audio RS52AN-8 2" Dome Midrange 285-020
break up is easy to remove and in general this dome mid is fine sounding
but if you are scared of metal dome, dayton makes another dome, sticky cloth (uncovered and unprotected) which has no significant breakup mode
Dayton Audio DC50F-8 2" Dome Midrange 285-010
I have used both, and I like them, but they are best suited for 4-way speaker systems, my humble opinion
Sure: http://i.imgur.com/AAzNwuF.jpg and http://i.imgur.com/lDRyqpM.jpg
There was a concern about it's power handling rating, I illustrated how it's really of no concern when used above 400hz in your average home environment.
While the RS52 does have a bad rep on the PE board, I've heard it used correctly and it can sound very nice.
5.5" would be my choice, even bigger if possible. If constructed properly should be able to work quite wide and with good dispersion. Small domes would give you clarity but will take out presence and fundament of voices, violins and etc. They always sounded thin and unnatural to me. Many vintage drivers were in the 8" size for fullrange/widerange and cone tweeters up to 3", somehow they sound more lifelike to me. Haven`t heard the ATC dome but its the only one that has a spider, which is an interesting feature I think.
What you haven't showed. You just showed that the maximum excursion is never reached in such a scenario.
But in the midrange the thermal compression is important. This driver is rated with 30W long term, which is more important for home use than the 15W (who listens 100h continously?). These values are meant as "don't break", and not as "still sounds good". This midrange will compress much earlier, especially with the not so high efficiency (87 dB/W).
Of course, this won't matter under normal conditions, but if you like to play a little louder than will become an issue.
I wouldn't be concerned with Xmax if the low end was crossed say at 500 or above, but if we're talking about in the 2-300 range then most certainly YES.
I'm currently bouncing between drivers in the 3"- 6.5" range. Despite possibly being MTM AS design (bouncing on this), the lower section is an MLTL. Crossover is in the 150-400Hz range. Best cost effective driver that I like for the MTM is a 4" and that places it's lower end to ~350Hz due to the Xmax limitation only. Personally am leaning for much lower point. Say covering the 200-3000k range. I did this twenty years ago with a JBL titanium dome tweeter and 5/ 5" fullrange's coupled to an dual isobaric sub in a single 43" tower. MMTMMM with a back loaded, floor coupled sub.
BTW those 5's were rated for 10w MAX. Had no issue handling 150w and with a 91dB/w/m would do hearing damage long before there was distortion in a typical living room.
I believe Lynn doesn't like because of it's rather limited bandwidth. Most 2"-3" are of poor design with lots of distortion. Key word here is most, not all. He himself has stated that he hasn't been able to make a 3 or greater way speaker. This is not that Lynn can't build such a beast, but to make it sound the way he wants, it's a no go. So sticks with 2 way designs that do sound like what he wants. If I had the space to house monster size speakers I'd build some LTO's in a skinny minute.
I've meddled with 2"-3" softdomes in the past. Limited bandwidth (x-max limited), distortion and odd rocking modes. Best used in 4 way or greater designs. 3 way is enough, 4way perhaps if your still young enough to hear above 20k
If you need more, go back to the drawing board. 
Looks like one of my baby's from the 80's
Poleaze flush mount
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Poleaze flush mount
Ha, Ha, Ha... you guys are funny, getting all homophobic about mounting. Frankly, I'm not religious about it. Whether you prefer Front mounted, Flush mounted or Rear mounted, I have no issues with that.
In fact, my first priority is how the speakers should look like. I just can't do Monkey coffins.
No, not really. This Scan Speak still makes 100 dB in the Xmax limits, and it will get support by the woofer, so the excursion based distortion will not really be an issue.
And then we're talking about 50 W, which this driver can surely handle short time, but not long time.
I think crossing the Scan Speak at 200 Hz is a good compromise of mechanical and electrical power handling. Although I would prefer a higher crossover, nothing bad about it.
... and chamfering the baffles around the drivers, very important. Easy trick if recessing drivers is not your thing is using some thin hardboard material. Paneling / flooring lamentes as well as some paper products layered work well. I tend to stay away from the easier to cut lighter weight materials. 1/8" hardboard is a favorite. I'm always time aligning the drivers so they always are staggered, figuring ways to get it just right with minimal tools eg router / planer etc
Used black leather once over the hardboard and 2" copper pipe cut laterally for the side roundovers for a seriously mean looking speaker.
Used black leather once over the hardboard and 2" copper pipe cut laterally for the side roundovers for a seriously mean looking speaker.
Are you considering baffle step loss when calculating this?
True, music being what it is. I tend to think of the peak dynamics which puts lower limits on drivers.
Somewhere around there.
Tend to cross ~200-350, 2.2-3.5k, subs if used below 100 (typically below 80).- Status
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