Hi All.
Just assessing the crossovers out of vintage 3 way Jamo Loudspeakers.
There are two blue colored smaller ALCAP Capacitors.
One is 2.2mfd 50vnp, and the other is 6mfd 50vnp.
Then there is a larger blue ALCAP capacitor which is 450uF 50vnp.
Is this correct and who supplies poly caps which are 450 uF?
thanks
Cliff
Just assessing the crossovers out of vintage 3 way Jamo Loudspeakers.
There are two blue colored smaller ALCAP Capacitors.
One is 2.2mfd 50vnp, and the other is 6mfd 50vnp.
Then there is a larger blue ALCAP capacitor which is 450uF 50vnp.
Is this correct and who supplies poly caps which are 450 uF?
thanks
Cliff
The largest Poly I can find is 220uF
FFVE4H0227K-- | AVX 220μF Polyester Capacitor PET 300V dc +-10% | RS Components
FFVE4H0227K-- | AVX 220μF Polyester Capacitor PET 300V dc +-10% | RS Components
Alcap come in some oddball capacities, falconacoustics have a good selection of them ClarityCap Solen & Alcap capacitors, audio components for loudspeaker crossovers.
For the 450uf, your probably going to have to parallel a few smaller caps. Never seen film caps that large, they really would be enormous. A Solen 220uf 250v is the size of a large beer can!
For the 450uf, your probably going to have to parallel a few smaller caps. Never seen film caps that large, they really would be enormous. A Solen 220uf 250v is the size of a large beer can!
Here is the can.
It's about 45 mm long.
Maybe it's 4.50uf but there's no dot???
Your link offers ALCAP Caps to 200mfd although the accompanying illustration includes the 450mfd version.
My attempt is to upgrade the caps to improve the sound.
Is it still worth replacing the smaller 6 mfd & 2.2 mfd electrolytics with poly?
Also, as poly caps aren't viable to 450 mfd, then is replacing the 40 year old cap with a new ALCAP of the same value worth it?
The replacement might have deteriorated on the parts shelf?
Attachments
Last edited:
Maybe use one of these,
470RY100 Non Polarised Axial Electrolytic | Wagner Online Electronic Stores
What model Jamo is it? and is the cap in line with the woofer?
and what is wrong with the sound of the speaker that you want to improve?
cheers, Arthur
470RY100 Non Polarised Axial Electrolytic | Wagner Online Electronic Stores
What model Jamo is it? and is the cap in line with the woofer?
and what is wrong with the sound of the speaker that you want to improve?
cheers, Arthur
Thanks Arthur.
They're Jamo Dynamic d3e
Jamo Dynamic d3e Compact Speakers For Sale
I picked them up in distressed state.
The woofers need re rolling.
I thought, attend to the low hanging fruit by upgrading the caps while I was at it.
I think the cap is in line with the woofer.
Your lead might be the go, as long as these electrolytics are not New Old Stock and deteriorated on the shelf.
cheers
Cliff
Last edited:
Wagner have a high turnover of passive components so you wont be getting old stock,
I see you are also refurbishing some sound dynamics and some MS 45Ti speakers, dont spend too much (nothing wrong with yellow caps either, Metalised Polypropylene Pmt, Polypropylene | Wagner Online Electronic Stores)
This guy uses them, and he used to work for Linn Loudspeakers as a speaker designer.
Products-Kantu | Legend Acoustics (zoom into the crossover pictures)
cheers, Arthur
I see you are also refurbishing some sound dynamics and some MS 45Ti speakers, dont spend too much (nothing wrong with yellow caps either, Metalised Polypropylene Pmt, Polypropylene | Wagner Online Electronic Stores)
This guy uses them, and he used to work for Linn Loudspeakers as a speaker designer.
Products-Kantu | Legend Acoustics (zoom into the crossover pictures)
cheers, Arthur
Its very confusing to use old style units, yes I know the caps are printed that way, but they are ancient - at least put the value in quotes verbatim "2.2MFD" and indicate 2.2µF 🙂
470µF must be a DC blocking cap, and economically has to be bipolar electrolytic. 470µF is rather a low value for good bass response though, consider higher value like 1mF or 2.2mF.
If you don't need DC blocking, I'd suggest bypassing it - if the amp has speaker protect for instance.
2.2µF and 6µF film caps are no problem, except that you might have to parallel a 2.7µF and a 3.3µF to get 6.0µF (or use 10µF and 15µF in series)
470µF must be a DC blocking cap, and economically has to be bipolar electrolytic. 470µF is rather a low value for good bass response though, consider higher value like 1mF or 2.2mF.
If you don't need DC blocking, I'd suggest bypassing it - if the amp has speaker protect for instance.
2.2µF and 6µF film caps are no problem, except that you might have to parallel a 2.7µF and a 3.3µF to get 6.0µF (or use 10µF and 15µF in series)
Thanks Arthur.
Always like to discuss Australian offerings.
I'm finding the options and pricing for crossover parts is a nightmare.
Far too many to for a person like me to economically explore without great expense and time.
My limited knowledge of Speaker Manufacturers is that they're all competing in a market overloaded with competitors. Each trying to survive while maintaining healthy profit margins.
As a result many manufacturers are skimping when it comes to crossover parts, as these are unseen by most buyers.
There has always been a market for operators upgrading crossovers fitted to currently released Loudspeakers. Even back in the eighties I was swayed to a pair of EV's over the JBL's I was after, only to find out it was an unfair comparison as the EV's had been recapped from new.
You can quote any major brand Loudspeaker and be able improve it new examples by testing and reviewing the supplied crossovers.
It's a sad state but apparently supplying quality crossover parts can have a big impact on the final rrp of a new set of Loudspeakers.
That's where I think DIY has its place.
Sorry Mark.
I'll refrain from using MFD.
Thanks for technical assistance.
Regarding the 470µF Electrolytic, do you recommend I experiment with 1mF or 2.2mF bipolar electrolytic Caps?
So far, I'm only familiar with µF film caps.
Which specific electrolytic caps do you recommend which come in mF values?
thanks.
Last edited:
No worries, but as you will learn in your quest for good sound you will hopefully find out that crossover topology is where its at, not rolling boutique parts.
cheers, Arthur.
cheers, Arthur.
^ That's for sure!
The cap that Arthur posted would be the direct replacement. A 470 uF non-polarized electrolytic. If it's in series with the woofer then it's a high pass filter probably meant to limit woofer excursion. If it's in parallel, then it's part of a low pass filter.
Is it a 4,6 or 8 ohm woofer?
The cap that Arthur posted would be the direct replacement. A 470 uF non-polarized electrolytic. If it's in series with the woofer then it's a high pass filter probably meant to limit woofer excursion. If it's in parallel, then it's part of a low pass filter.
Is it a 4,6 or 8 ohm woofer?
As to uF and mF, you'll find that mfd = microfarads = uF.
The only one I know of in that value has a reduced voltage to keep the size manageable.
Lefson C-MOD. 470uF is only 35V rated.
LEFSON C-MOD 470uF / 35V
Later,
Wolf
The only one I know of in that value has a reduced voltage to keep the size manageable.
Lefson C-MOD. 470uF is only 35V rated.
LEFSON C-MOD 470uF / 35V
Later,
Wolf
First lookup here in Denmark gives me a retailer, that has NP 1000uF/75Vdc in stock for
4.99$ a piece. With a little digging you should be able to find equal sizes "over there" too 🙂
4.99$ a piece. With a little digging you should be able to find equal sizes "over there" too 🙂
Wolf, I think that MarkT was referring to caps in the millifarad range correctly as mF. Perhaps to clarify his point in post #8.
If that is correct, then to answer CliffR52's question:
m = milli = 1000 x micro
so 1.1mF = 1000µF, 2.2mF = 2200µF
Hi Mark.
I must profusely apologise to you and all the other posters.
I'm working on 5 crossovers simultaneously and mixed up the speakers.
This crossover design is for Wharfedale Diamond 3 two way Speakers.
8 ohm design, 100 watts handling with 86 Db sensitivity.
Should the advice be the same.
That is to replace the ALCAP 450 µF electrolytic capacitor which services the Woofer, to 1mF or 2.2mF values?
See my poor hand drawn schematic.
Do you still recommend going to a higher value?
thanks
Cliff
Attachments
The cap in series with the woofer is acting as a high pass filter at approximately 45 Hz. I suspect that is to limit cone excursion and damage to the woofer. You could remove or bypass it if you don't play too loud. It looks like it's there just to protect and clean up the small woofer.
I wonder if there is a more modern way of protecting the woofer without resorting to an electrolytic cap?