41 Hz Amp 6?

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#103
My bag nb. 2 for AMP6 (delivered just before Xmas, completed by now) reads 6pcs of those capacitors (just like pepolman says in the other thread).

BTW, I like your website:

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#105
Nuuk said:
Now, can anybody tell me why the red LED is lit on my AMP-6 when the power is turned on (but not in sleep mode)? :xeye:
Click to expand...

Ya know, something just occured to me, and this may be the beer talking, but by chance did you guys switch the red and green LEDs? In the manual (thanks pepolman) it says the green LED should be on during normal operation and the red LED should only be on when the internal fault logic is tripped. Seeing that you guys have working amps and the lights are mixed up leads me to think you guys switched them or they were labeled incorrectly in the kit. Someone trace which pin controls which LED and we'll have an answer...
 
#109
That could be it then. Over on the 41hz forums pepolman posted about the positions of his LEDs and said both his amps work fine. I interpreted what he posted as green LED at D15 and red LED at D16. This sounds opposite of what you have, but how it is labeled in the instructions. Jan may have just made a mistake there. No change in functionality of the amp at all, just a lit red LED instead of a green one.
 
#111
Fault!

Hi Everybody,

I have just finished building three AMP 6 amplifiers. I have just started testing one of them to see if it works, however so far no luck. I use a 15 Volts, 300 VA toroidal transformer. When I connect the Amp to the transformer, the component market Q3 (LM1084 Voltage regulator, 5A adjustable voltage) goes really hot. Is this supposed to happen?

None of the LEDs gets ever switched on.

Also the component named C5 (1 uF, Charge pump output decoupling) is currently not mounted as the manual says nothing about it. Is this correct?
 
#112
Did you check your PCB for soldering short circuits? The amp consumes only tens of miliampers which cannot heat up the regulator so much. My manual mentions the C5 capacitor and I wonder whether the charge pump used for proper switching the output FETs can work without it.
 
#113
phofman said:
Did you check your PCB for soldering short circuits? The amp consumes only tens of miliampers which cannot heat up the regulator so much. My manual mentions the C5 capacitor and I wonder whether the charge pump used for proper switching the output FETs can work without it.
Click to expand...

I have been in touch with Jan, C5 is definitely needed. I have now soldered it on. On all my 3 AMP6 the regulator gets extremly hot when I plug in the transformer. I have only tried for a few seconds as I am afraid of blowing something. This is very strange, it happends when I only connect the transformer without J2 and J1 connections. Same happends when I connect everything to J1 and J2.

Have anyone touched the regulator when connected and had a similar experience?
Since the problem appear with all three Amps I wonder if I perhaps soldered some component wrongly.
 
#114
Ninfendo, there are people here who may be able to help you because of their technical knowledge but they probably don't have an AMP-6 in front of them to know what J1, J2 etc refer to! 😉

This is very strange, it happens when I only connect the transformer without J2 and J1 connections. Same happends when I connect everything to J1 and J2.
Click to expand...

So it happens with J1/J2 connected or not? This dosesn't make much sense! It goes without saying that your regulator will only get hot when the power is applied to the circuit.

It sounds like you made the same mistake as I did, ie soldered in the chip before you tested the PSU section. This caused me problems too! My error was in soldering in the large SMD diodes the wrong way round.

When you apply power, what voltage are you getting out of the regulator? If you connect your meter to the circuit with crocodile clips, you can turn on the power briefly to read the meter, and then off again to prevent the regulator getting hot. :att'n:
 
#115
Hi Ninfendo,
Yes - the regulator will get hot, very hot. Even though the amp draws very little current at idle, the regulator has to drop the higher voltage you are sending it. That voltage drop is turned in to - what? Heat.

E.G. I used a nominal 15V transformer that actualy puts out 16.3V. After rectification and filtering, that gives me about 20V. The regulator has to drop that to 14V, thus the heat. So you will need a heat sink on the regulator for sure. If you are mounting it in a metal case, you can use the case - with an insulator. That's the best solution.

You've solved the C5 problem, it certainly needs to be there. No C5 - no ocillation, no switching, no sound!
 
#116
Nuuk said:
Ninfendo, there are people here who may be able to help you because of their technical knowledge but they probably don't have an AMP-6 in front of them to know what J1, J2 etc refer to! 😉



So it happens with J1/J2 connected or not? This dosesn't make much sense! It goes without saying that your regulator will only get hot when the power is applied to the circuit.

It sounds like you made the same mistake as I did, ie soldered in the chip before you tested the PSU section. This caused me problems too! My error was in soldering in the large SMD diodes the wrong way round.

When you apply power, what voltage are you getting out of the regulator? If you connect your meter to the circuit with crocodile clips, you can turn on the power briefly to read the meter, and then off again to prevent the regulator getting hot. :att'n:
Click to expand...

Guess What! I have not paid any attention to the way I have mounted the SMB Diodes, I guess I will have more success after rectifying this. I cannot see a negative or positive side on the diodes. There is however a line going across one of the sides of the diodes, should it be on the side of the PCB with the white line?
 
#117
Guess What! I have not paid any attention to the way I have mounted the SMB Diodes, I guess I will have more success after rectifying this. I cannot see a negative or positive side on the diodes. There is however a line going across one of the sides of the diodes, should it be on the side of the PCB with the white line?
Click to expand...

If you look at the diode so that the tiny writing is the correct way up, the white line on the PCB should be to the left of the diode. Hope this makes sense! 😉
 
#118
panomaniac said:
Hi Ninfendo,
Yes - the regulator will get hot, very hot. Even though the amp draws very little current at idle, the regulator has to drop the higher voltage you are sending it. That voltage drop is turned in to - what? Heat.

E.G. I used a nominal 15V transformer that actualy puts out 16.3V. After rectification and filtering, that gives me about 20V. The regulator has to drop that to 14V, thus the heat. So you will need a heat sink on the regulator for sure. If you are mounting it in a metal case, you can use the case - with an insulator. That's the best solution.

You've solved the C5 problem, it certainly needs to be there. No C5 - no ocillation, no switching, no sound!
Click to expand...

This is great stuff, after rectification I measure 20.5V. I will try turning the diodes and then and then see if I have more luck
 
#119
Nuuk said:


If you look at the diode so that the tiny writing is the correct way up, the white line on the PCB should be to the left of the diode. Hope this makes sense! 😉
Click to expand...


Thanks for the quick answer, so how do I know what is the correct way of turning the diode? The text is up, but what about polarity? There is also a line on the diode itself
 
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