41 Hz Amp 6?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jump to Latest
#121
Nuuk said:
Well if you can see a line on the diodes, you are luckier than I was! 😉

The line denotes the cathode and the line on the board denotes the same thing. So you put line to line. :att'n:
Click to expand...


Many Thanks, I will try this straight away. It is not going to be easy rectifying this problem, there are a lot of components in the way of the diodes. I'll let you guys know how I get on.
 
#123
One diode seem to have died, I don't get any current through it. Since I have three Amp6 amplifiers it should be possible to get at least one working. When checking the current on the regulator I have an input of 20.5V the output is only 0.3V, so one seem blown. I will try the other two Amps as soon as all diodes have been turned.
 
#125
Hi All,
Ok things are progressing... well sort of. I managed to completely kill one of the AMP6 modules, The TA2020 actually blew up, a large piece of it came flying out with a bang. Looking on it from the bright side I now have one module I can use for spare parts.

I have had more luck with another one of the modules. It is now connected to the Stereo, and the Green light is on. However no sound comes out of it, not even a sounds when I switch on the module. I have connected a switch to the mute jumper. The green light get more intense when the circuit from the jumper is closed.

The only thing I can think of that can be wrong is the fact that I still have some parts unused. There are two Resistors called R9 and R10 (10 ohm 0.5W). They are called "Speaker output filter Rzobel", are these necessary?
Also, R1 is empty on the PCB, it is called "Sleep Signal pin pull-up", should it be empty?
 
#126
Ninfendo said:
The only thing I can think of that can be wrong is the fact that I still have some parts unused. There are two Resistors called R9 and R10 (10 ohm 0.5W). They are called "Speaker output filter Rzobel", are these necessary?
Also, R1 is empty on the PCB, it is called "Sleep Signal pin pull-up", should it be empty?
Click to expand...

Why didn't you install those parts???

The zobel filter is there for a reason. To quote one of the Tripath datasheets: "Zobel resistor, which in conjunction with CZ, terminates the output filter at high frequencies. The combination of RZ and CZ minimizes peaking of the output filter under both no load conditions or with real world loads, including loudspeakers which usually exhibit a rising impedance with frequency."

The sleep signal pull up resistor shouldn't make a difference if you keep the sleep jumper closed, but you should still install R1 anyway so the sleep function will work properly should you ever want to put the amp to sleep.
 
#128
Ninfendo, sorry about your amp, but I have kill a couple myself. Those tripath chips are more fragile than I had image. Anyways, you can always order extra chips from Jan, I am sure he is getting a lot of email saying "Can I just order a few of those chips...."

Anyways, the missing resistor R9, R10 will not kill your amp, they just output filter, sound will come out even if you don't put them it.
 
#129
I need a bit of help guys, while I was trying to remove the FETs and follow sparkgap's tips at the 41hz forum (the printout of the orientation of the FETs are reversed, thus the need to remove the FETs from the board and solder them facing the opposite way than that printed on the board), I accidentally plucked out one of the legs of the FETs. Is there an alternative FET I can use aside from 2n7000? Its not readily available here. Thanks
 
#131
He means the little LED driver FETs Jan added. Just find the datasheet for the 2n7000 then look for a comparable FET in the same SOT23 package. Digikey has a nice search that allows you to search for parts in various ways - the package is just one of them that helps narrow your search down.
 
#133
OK, that makes sense!

I didn't even know they were FETs. Just thought they were general purpose NPN trannies. Never even looked close at them. I don't remember my amp board being printed wrong. Hmmm.... I'll look on the next one.
 
#134
Need a bit of help guys. If I have the flat side of the FETs facing me, the middle legs (gates) should be the ones connected to the chip, the left legs (source) connected to the resistors for the leds while the right leg (drain) is connected to ground ? It seems my board is faulty, on d1 i think, both gate and source are shorted. Thanks
 
#136
nteresting sidenote. I checked 2n7000's data sheet, and there are actually 2 types of these in the same To-92 body, and if you look at the relation of the Drain and Source leg, there's actually a diode in between them. I think the proper orientation should be the Drain leg is the kathode end while the Source leg is the anode. If you received the other type, where the kathode is at the Source Leg and the Anode at the Drain leg, then you have to put the MOSFET in the opposite orientation as that printed on board. Is this correct? To test which one you have, use your resistance tester's red probe on the right leg (assuming you have the flat side facing you) and the black probe to the left leg, if you get a reflection, then use the printed orientation, if you don't get a reflection on the tester, reverse the probes to verify, and if you do get a reflection, attach the MOSFET in the opposite orientation. But if you don't get a reflection any which way you connect the probes of the tester, you have a busted MOSFER :bigeyes:

Btw, I'm wondering if its better to use Belden's 89259 for line connections (source input to volume pot to input cap then PCB board). I'm currently using twisted cat5s inside. Sounds ok, just wondering if 89259 is better or will it cause the amp to oscillate? Thanks
 
#137
BWRX said:


Same here, except it's an amp3 😀

It's on top of my CD player, within a foot of my laptop using wireless internet, and three feet away from my halogen lamp and there's very little noise!

You can see the little regulator board on top of a UCD180 box and the amp on the CD player. Not exactly a noise free environment!
Click to expand...

Have you completed the UCD180 yet? How does it compare to the Tripath amp?

Thanks,

Paul
 
#138
Well, I have all the parts to finish my mono UCD but it just so happens that I shorted the output and burnt a resistor and possibly some other parts about a month ago... so... no I haven't replaced the parts to get it up and running again. But I would like to soon so I can have an amp for an active sub! Or if it sounds really good I may just save up and make another one 🙂 In the meantime I'm very happy with how the amp3 sounds.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom