In the meantime - the 3l box has become a pair of PC speakers together with a 3d printed sub. For whatever reason, they sound okay in this setting.
Given the idea of a 3d printed front grille - this is my plan for v2 of a Tc9fd-based speaker I found on this forum which really sounds quite nice at is. Building this was a better idea than the entirely new design of the 3l box.
Given the idea of a 3d printed front grille - this is my plan for v2 of a Tc9fd-based speaker I found on this forum which really sounds quite nice at is. Building this was a better idea than the entirely new design of the 3l box.
Well, the Neumann speakers you showed look a lot like the Genelec that were presented earlier in this thread - and yes, printing the front part makes sense as features like these are probably quite hard to make in wood.
But for wood+3d to make sense over 3d alone, the result would have to be bigger - or else the hassle with wood would not be worth it. Which would unfortunately also mean that the front had to be segmented since a big box has a front that could be too big for a 3d print bed - so the end result might look quite different.
But still.
Is there a proven, perhaps 2-way, design with a plan for all the necessary crossovers and whatnot that has features that make it quite difficult to build in wood, but easy to make in 3d+wood ?
But for wood+3d to make sense over 3d alone, the result would have to be bigger - or else the hassle with wood would not be worth it. Which would unfortunately also mean that the front had to be segmented since a big box has a front that could be too big for a 3d print bed - so the end result might look quite different.
But still.
Is there a proven, perhaps 2-way, design with a plan for all the necessary crossovers and whatnot that has features that make it quite difficult to build in wood, but easy to make in 3d+wood ?
I've had good luck with 3d printing. I model with WinISD and VituixCad. It's been a long process with many mistakes but it's getting better. Lot of useful info in this forum. So sharing my experience.
First video with a time-lapse where I printed what is probably the front face of the speaker that today is in my profile pic. A Tang Band W3-2141. The rest of the box is wood.
The second is a Tang Band W23-1287SI 2"x3". I built it in a hurry and later fixed it to have a "Truncated pyramid on parallelepiped" shape. The fix is not pretty but it's working. I lreally LOVE this speaker for the computer desk, it's amazing how a small speaker can sound this good in a 2Lt box. Others have liked it. The frequency response was nice for the fixed box, not the one in the video but the one in the photo. I might rebuild the box of this driver with this same shape in the future.
Note: There's a sub filling the lows, the baffle it's decoupled from the table and you can notice how it vibrates.
Because of this experience I'm building the same shape for a LY-302F. Not sure if I will do the rest with a 3d printer or with a CNC. Attaching photo. Hoping to have it ready this week or next week, as time permits. I put this in a box before with poor results, but now I know that it's really, really easy to do over excursion with this driver so I'm going with a closed box and a 200Hz high pass.
First video with a time-lapse where I printed what is probably the front face of the speaker that today is in my profile pic. A Tang Band W3-2141. The rest of the box is wood.
The second is a Tang Band W23-1287SI 2"x3". I built it in a hurry and later fixed it to have a "Truncated pyramid on parallelepiped" shape. The fix is not pretty but it's working. I lreally LOVE this speaker for the computer desk, it's amazing how a small speaker can sound this good in a 2Lt box. Others have liked it. The frequency response was nice for the fixed box, not the one in the video but the one in the photo. I might rebuild the box of this driver with this same shape in the future.
Note: There's a sub filling the lows, the baffle it's decoupled from the table and you can notice how it vibrates.
Because of this experience I'm building the same shape for a LY-302F. Not sure if I will do the rest with a 3d printer or with a CNC. Attaching photo. Hoping to have it ready this week or next week, as time permits. I put this in a box before with poor results, but now I know that it's really, really easy to do over excursion with this driver so I'm going with a closed box and a 200Hz high pass.