if all else fails, PartsExpress sell internationally. i got one for $60AU inc airmail shipping to Perth. not cheap, but quick.
sonic impact amp
IS there anyone else in OZ that want to get this , We should get together and get a group buy going eh.
IS there anyone else in OZ that want to get this , We should get together and get a group buy going eh.
How to attatch the PC board to the new case?
I'm in the process of reboxing mine.
How do you mount the PC board to the new case?
If all else fails, I was thinking of gluing it on with some silicone or RTV, leaving a little clearance for ventilation.
What did you guys do?
Thanks,
KT
I'm in the process of reboxing mine.
How do you mount the PC board to the new case?
If all else fails, I was thinking of gluing it on with some silicone or RTV, leaving a little clearance for ventilation.
What did you guys do?
Thanks,
KT
The easiest mounting method Ive found is to use standoffs, made of plastic in which a slot is cut, that the board will slip into. Pick 3 to 4 appropriate spots on the board where you can fit it into the slots and
use them to clamp the board in place.
I actually turn standoffs of Delrin and centerdrill them to screw mount. If you offset drill a couple, you can rotate them and they will act as cams and clamp the board quite tightly against the stationary, opposing standoffs.
amt
use them to clamp the board in place.
I actually turn standoffs of Delrin and centerdrill them to screw mount. If you offset drill a couple, you can rotate them and they will act as cams and clamp the board quite tightly against the stationary, opposing standoffs.
amt
can't open case of sonic t amp
how do you get the case open? i removed 2 screws in bat. compartment but can't figure how to open case. thanks formd
how do you get the case open? i removed 2 screws in bat. compartment but can't figure how to open case. thanks formd
You could use a hacksaw around the perimeter, or carefully use a hammer and chisel, or, peel the rubber feet off the bottom and take the rest of the screws out. It's a common hiding place for screws.
Regards
Regards
Mounting the SI board
I use plastic cylindrical standoffs (like those used to mount PC motherboards) that are internally threaded. I mount the standoff to the case with two stainless steel machine screws and then I use the two large holes in the SI board to put two plastic screws thru and into the standoffs.
The standoffs can be cut to length and I cut them to about 3/8 inch long.
There is also another type of standoff used on PC motherborads that has a flat circle on one side and a spring clip post on the other. The spring clip portion fits thru the large holes on the SI board and then you can glue the flat circle portion to your case.
Both of these optons are pre-made, cheap and can be found at any computer retailer.
Robert
I use plastic cylindrical standoffs (like those used to mount PC motherboards) that are internally threaded. I mount the standoff to the case with two stainless steel machine screws and then I use the two large holes in the SI board to put two plastic screws thru and into the standoffs.
The standoffs can be cut to length and I cut them to about 3/8 inch long.
There is also another type of standoff used on PC motherborads that has a flat circle on one side and a spring clip post on the other. The spring clip portion fits thru the large holes on the SI board and then you can glue the flat circle portion to your case.
Both of these optons are pre-made, cheap and can be found at any computer retailer.
Robert
Thanks for the mounting suggestions, guys.
I like the idea of mounting them through the existing holes with plastic spacers and screw, but I have some wires running through one of those holes. I think the slotted standoffs may be the key, here.
Great suggestions.
Thanks,
KT
I like the idea of mounting them through the existing holes with plastic spacers and screw, but I have some wires running through one of those holes. I think the slotted standoffs may be the key, here.
Great suggestions.
Thanks,
KT
Purchasing an SI AMP
I have two still on back order with parts express. Being as I am an impatient person I bit the bullet went to SI's website and ordered one at full cost. With shipping I have 45.00 US dollars in it. Could have waited but oh well.
http://www.si-5.com/frontEnd/cm_productDetail.jsp?productID=18
I have two still on back order with parts express. Being as I am an impatient person I bit the bullet went to SI's website and ordered one at full cost. With shipping I have 45.00 US dollars in it. Could have waited but oh well.
http://www.si-5.com/frontEnd/cm_productDetail.jsp?productID=18
Awright, with my first post on diyAudio I present the Xmod:
Features:
Custom cut hole for led light, volume control on top for easy access when on the floor. Original artwork with black marker for better shielding.
Notice the use of strips.
Materials used:
1 Styrofoam from sonic impact box
8 black strips
Tools used:
Knife
This mod really enhances the dynamics and frequency response, the overall sound has more twang and the treble is more saturated, and is at the same time dryer. I was really amazed that styrofoam could enhance it's characteristics this way, I guess there's no knowing when it comes to audio. I will try to arrange some ABXing asap.
Anyhow,
I award the Xmodded sonic impact with the following scores:
Treble 95%
Bass 80%
Twang 85%
Value 100%
Sound 82%
A total of 443% out of 500%!
I Award it with my platinum editors choice award.
Features:
Custom cut hole for led light, volume control on top for easy access when on the floor. Original artwork with black marker for better shielding.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Notice the use of strips.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Materials used:
1 Styrofoam from sonic impact box
8 black strips
Tools used:
Knife
This mod really enhances the dynamics and frequency response, the overall sound has more twang and the treble is more saturated, and is at the same time dryer. I was really amazed that styrofoam could enhance it's characteristics this way, I guess there's no knowing when it comes to audio. I will try to arrange some ABXing asap.
Anyhow,
I award the Xmodded sonic impact with the following scores:
Treble 95%
Bass 80%
Twang 85%
Value 100%
Sound 82%
A total of 443% out of 500%!
I Award it with my platinum editors choice award.
grkn- Sometimes the simplest things are the most sophisticated 😀
Are you going to sell cabinet kits? 😉
seriously though- it might overheat. After a few hours my non styro enclosed model gets warm!! I like the CE type labeling for correct polarity!
Bill, Thanks for selling me my SI amps! Sorry you turned out to be a humanitarian rather than a billionaire!
Good to hear Parts express is getting more- 3 isn't enough!!
Are you going to sell cabinet kits? 😉
seriously though- it might overheat. After a few hours my non styro enclosed model gets warm!! I like the CE type labeling for correct polarity!
Bill, Thanks for selling me my SI amps! Sorry you turned out to be a humanitarian rather than a billionaire!
Good to hear Parts express is getting more- 3 isn't enough!!
Connecting a 4 tab ALPS pot
I am the preverbial newbie thus I need some assistance. On the Blue ALPS pot I have there are 4 tabs each for both the right and left channels. Most of the pot diagrams I see are only showing three. Could some one let me know what the 4 connections are used for and how I would connect the alps for this amplifier application. I understand the wiring for the 3 tab pots just need some clarification for the 4 tab.
BTW
I could have waited to get my 2 for under 30 but like I said I'm impatient. The flip side is I've scavenged a chassis to keep the cost down on the first attempt.
I am the preverbial newbie thus I need some assistance. On the Blue ALPS pot I have there are 4 tabs each for both the right and left channels. Most of the pot diagrams I see are only showing three. Could some one let me know what the 4 connections are used for and how I would connect the alps for this amplifier application. I understand the wiring for the 3 tab pots just need some clarification for the 4 tab.
BTW
I could have waited to get my 2 for under 30 but like I said I'm impatient. The flip side is I've scavenged a chassis to keep the cost down on the first attempt.
MAKING A T-AMP MONOBLOC
I need the advice of someone with expertise in audio engeniering.
I have a couple of questions about transforming 2 T-AMPS (Sonic Impact T-amp) in a single monoblock piece...inside a single box (that i will make) and sharing the same potenciometer.
So (THE QUESTIONS), can I connect the amps so that:
- IN EACH AMP THE LEFT AND RIGHT INPUTS ARE CONNECTED IN ONLY ONE RCA INPUT TERMINAL, CREATING THE SAME SIGNAL IN BOTH CHANNELS - TRANSFORMING IT IN A SINGLE ONE. (THE "A" BINDING POSTS CONNECTS TO THE BASS/MID UNIT AND THE "B" TO THE TREBLE IN ONE SPEAKER. THE SAME FOR THE OTHER).
- THE SAME TOGGLE SWITCH AND POTENCIOMETER SERVES AND CONTROLS THE 2 AMPS SIMULTANITLY.
- INDEPENDENT LED'S AND POWER SUPPLY CONNECTIONS FOR EACH PBC.
In response to one of many e-mails amt wrote:
"I believe you can split the signal and use it as input for both L/R
channels, but I think impedences and the output of the source you will use
are factors as well. Keep in mind that if you are going to use passive
crossovers in this scheme, you lose some of the benefits of biamping.
Limiting the bandwidth of each amp helps, as well as the better control over
the xo points if using an active xo"
Thanks for all your help Art 🙂)
So can anybody help me MORE with this questions?
I need the advice of someone with expertise in audio engeniering.
I have a couple of questions about transforming 2 T-AMPS (Sonic Impact T-amp) in a single monoblock piece...inside a single box (that i will make) and sharing the same potenciometer.
So (THE QUESTIONS), can I connect the amps so that:
- IN EACH AMP THE LEFT AND RIGHT INPUTS ARE CONNECTED IN ONLY ONE RCA INPUT TERMINAL, CREATING THE SAME SIGNAL IN BOTH CHANNELS - TRANSFORMING IT IN A SINGLE ONE. (THE "A" BINDING POSTS CONNECTS TO THE BASS/MID UNIT AND THE "B" TO THE TREBLE IN ONE SPEAKER. THE SAME FOR THE OTHER).
- THE SAME TOGGLE SWITCH AND POTENCIOMETER SERVES AND CONTROLS THE 2 AMPS SIMULTANITLY.
- INDEPENDENT LED'S AND POWER SUPPLY CONNECTIONS FOR EACH PBC.
In response to one of many e-mails amt wrote:
"I believe you can split the signal and use it as input for both L/R
channels, but I think impedences and the output of the source you will use
are factors as well. Keep in mind that if you are going to use passive
crossovers in this scheme, you lose some of the benefits of biamping.
Limiting the bandwidth of each amp helps, as well as the better control over
the xo points if using an active xo"
Thanks for all your help Art 🙂)
So can anybody help me MORE with this questions?
A bit OT, but I was so thrilled when I found it I just had to share this:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?j=1&id=1051384790856&skuId=4248095&type=product
It's a power adapter for a Yamaha keyboard, I just picked one up at my local Best Buy for about $20. 12v DC, 1700ma, and it's got a nice RF choke on it. Best part is it's got the correct connector for the t-amp and it sounds nice and clean.
I am a bit suspicious of the 13.5v adapter Parts Express recommends for the T-amp, as the tripath documentation on the chip specs 13.2 volts as the max it will handle...
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?j=1&id=1051384790856&skuId=4248095&type=product
It's a power adapter for a Yamaha keyboard, I just picked one up at my local Best Buy for about $20. 12v DC, 1700ma, and it's got a nice RF choke on it. Best part is it's got the correct connector for the t-amp and it sounds nice and clean.
I am a bit suspicious of the 13.5v adapter Parts Express recommends for the T-amp, as the tripath documentation on the chip specs 13.2 volts as the max it will handle...
Parts Express Power Supply
I have been running the Parts Express 13.5 volt supply for a week or so. This morning I swapped my normal amp.
While putting the SI up I powered up the power supply, and checked the voltage. Unloaded the voltage mesures 18.1 volts. This is way above the Tripath maximum limit.
My amp was run 3 -4 hours a day for about 10 days. It sounded real nice. I have seen others post that the SI sounds better when run at 13.8 volts compared to 12 volts.
My last stab at batteries was some special AA. These are 2400 mah rechargeables. The power supply sounded louder and more dynamic. Guess it should, that is 18 volts versus 13.2 for the fresh batteries.
I amy stop and get the Yamaha power supply. But I suspect it will measure closer to 14 volts than 12. Seems these power supplies usually measure a higher voltage than rated.
It may be that they are say 12 volts at 1700 ma. Unloaded it may be 14 or so.
George
bwbass said:
I have been running the Parts Express 13.5 volt supply for a week or so. This morning I swapped my normal amp.
While putting the SI up I powered up the power supply, and checked the voltage. Unloaded the voltage mesures 18.1 volts. This is way above the Tripath maximum limit.
My amp was run 3 -4 hours a day for about 10 days. It sounded real nice. I have seen others post that the SI sounds better when run at 13.8 volts compared to 12 volts.
My last stab at batteries was some special AA. These are 2400 mah rechargeables. The power supply sounded louder and more dynamic. Guess it should, that is 18 volts versus 13.2 for the fresh batteries.
I amy stop and get the Yamaha power supply. But I suspect it will measure closer to 14 volts than 12. Seems these power supplies usually measure a higher voltage than rated.
It may be that they are say 12 volts at 1700 ma. Unloaded it may be 14 or so.
George
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