Gradually progressing the mods: everything is sanded. No more drilling, so the amp boxes get glued on. Hope to prime and paint this weekend 🤞
After that - final assembly, which is:
- attach drivers, attach front panel
- line the internals with butyl and foam, route the cables
- solder drivers and bolt the back panel and amp on
Maybe you should've sold the Monitor Audio set and got a pair of Nuance 3CLs if you were going to cut the box.
3cls are approx 300 a pair and the tweeter is outstanding. The 3CLs crossover is junk and got replaced.
Those Monitors are 3 to 4k maybe more
3cls are approx 300 a pair and the tweeter is outstanding. The 3CLs crossover is junk and got replaced.
Those Monitors are 3 to 4k maybe more
The original speakers are pretty basic: thin walls, zero bracing, cheap drivers. They would not get more than 50-100 quid if sold. As these are my first ever speakers (over 25 years old) I wanted to give them a second life.
Shellac priming:
First coat I hated it. Did not cover anything and was very uneven. Second coat I thought ‘maybe it will work’. Third coat: ‘looks like it is working’. Fourth coat I switch to a roller and it works perfectly.
As for a first timer, it was not easy. Working time is very short, so it is tricky with a brush, much better with a roller. But I think I have over-egged the thickness.
Sanding started badly (clogging) but improved. Lots of work. Shellac is great!
First coat I hated it. Did not cover anything and was very uneven. Second coat I thought ‘maybe it will work’. Third coat: ‘looks like it is working’. Fourth coat I switch to a roller and it works perfectly.
As for a first timer, it was not easy. Working time is very short, so it is tricky with a brush, much better with a roller. But I think I have over-egged the thickness.
Sanding started badly (clogging) but improved. Lots of work. Shellac is great!
Painting was next and another first timer experience. I opted for a spray can.
I planned to do two or three coats with one hour interval but ran out of paint after exactly one. Duh! One more can ordered.
My main fear was over-applying and causing paint runs, so I moved the spray a lot. Maybe too much.
Best I could manage:
I planned to do two or three coats with one hour interval but ran out of paint after exactly one. Duh! One more can ordered.
My main fear was over-applying and causing paint runs, so I moved the spray a lot. Maybe too much.
Best I could manage:
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I keep my fingers crossed it will come out acceptable.
Textured paint definitely a back up option. I also thought about a leather (or similar) wrap, vinyl wrap or even carbon fibre skin. But climbing too many learning curves at the same time is not a good idea, so I just went for a spray can.
I am working in a small flat, so there are limits to what I can realistically do. My wife is approaching the limits of her almost endless patience.
Textured paint definitely a back up option. I also thought about a leather (or similar) wrap, vinyl wrap or even carbon fibre skin. But climbing too many learning curves at the same time is not a good idea, so I just went for a spray can.
I am working in a small flat, so there are limits to what I can realistically do. My wife is approaching the limits of her almost endless patience.
Hi there!
I have noticed your post with some delay, so my observations may be too late.
If you want to improve the original speaker further you have to consider to build a new baffle with an integrated wave guide for the tweeter for time alignment and even more important to come over the poor directivity graph course in the crossover area of between the bass mid range woofer and the small tweeter, 0.75 inch (19 mm) dome tweeter first guess
i am only good with Visaton Boxsim and no skills in Vituix CAD but for a first impression of what you get with similar Visaton Chassis some screenshots in the next post
I have noticed your post with some delay, so my observations may be too late.
If you want to improve the original speaker further you have to consider to build a new baffle with an integrated wave guide for the tweeter for time alignment and even more important to come over the poor directivity graph course in the crossover area of between the bass mid range woofer and the small tweeter, 0.75 inch (19 mm) dome tweeter first guess
i am only good with Visaton Boxsim and no skills in Vituix CAD but for a first impression of what you get with similar Visaton Chassis some screenshots in the next post
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this is the reason why newer designs especially for active studio monitors you always have a baffle integrated wave guide for the tweeter
here one of the hundreds of examples on the market
even though it might be a little bit out of scope here just an example of a Visaton design with directivity graph made right
here one of the hundreds of examples on the market
even though it might be a little bit out of scope here just an example of a Visaton design with directivity graph made right
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Did you see the waveguided tweeter and the chamfered baffle?
Post in thread '3-way to active - Hypex FA253 - learning project'
Here is a mock up of the beveled front panel.
