Having just completed the cutting and routing part of the woodwork, I now understand that I would have been better off if I went for a completely new cabinet instead of modification.
What I thought would be a saving of time and a simplification is in fact a complication and a set of additional constraints.
Lesson learned the hard way aka a stupid mistake.
It remains to be seen if I can improve these speakers.
So, from my new experience: modifying the cabinet is the same amount if not more woodwork, so no advantage even in my situation. Maybe ok only if the mods are an absolute mnimum.
When you first said "factor of 2", I thought, wow, this guy is much better than me at estimating... But factor of 3 is more my level of estimation accuracy...
While slowly working on cabinet assembly (only a few hrs per week), I am also catching up on crossovers and EQ theory. I hope to be able to do system setup in a prioritised sequence of steps rather than getting confused and lost trying to chase many things at the same time. Based on my limited knowledge (a lot of which comes from this thread which does not focus on active DSP), I see the following order of setup:
I have no idea if I need, should or can do something with phase response. Could somebody point me to some useful reading?
Just a recap of the project: it is a slim 3-way floor-stander with dual 5in subwoofers for LF and with Hypex FA253 DSP amp.
- set channel levels
- set crossover filters LF/MF/HF (frequency, type, slope)
- add baffle step correction
- smooth out local peaks/dips in magnitude response (above 200Hz)
- phase response?
- Linquitz transform (or similar) within the limits of distortion/Xmax and power
- Room EQ
- Apply Harman curve (or similar subjective preference curve)
- Apply any other subjective preference
I have no idea if I need, should or can do something with phase response. Could somebody point me to some useful reading?
Just a recap of the project: it is a slim 3-way floor-stander with dual 5in subwoofers for LF and with Hypex FA253 DSP amp.
Last edited:
Maybe
1. Measure with REW
2. Simulate with VituixCAD
3. Transfer filters to DSP
4. Evaluate,
IF happy == true -> leave as is
ELSE -> go to 1.
yes, that 1-4 sequence probably will be repeated within each of the 9 steps.
I just want to undersadn exactly what and how I am trying to achieve in each of the 9 steps and if the order of setup is right.
I just want to undersadn exactly what and how I am trying to achieve in each of the 9 steps and if the order of setup is right.
Ok, lets return to the list:
1. Setting speaker levels is possible only after measurement, as manufacturer data usually is not very correct and the measurements are done for 1kHz sine. Tweeter for example and woofer-subwoofer is not playing 1kHz in your project, so does not make sense. It is a curve (function), not a single digit.
2. Sim will show what curves you need, it is your project, choose the one you want to look good on graph AND to sound good.
3. BSC - trivial. That is part of crossover, probably with the right crossover slope there are no additional filters included. Your project is active, you have full control about it
4. 200Hz is not magic number, but if you can get full spinorama, you will see where the attention is needed. Trivial. But depending on the measurement, ~170-200Hz resolution is the best we can do when measuring in typical living rooms
5. I am not smart enough to comment about phase, but if you see it as separate driver delay - it can be simulated in VituixCAD and done in DSP. Polarity of course can be inverted too. It is the part of crossover too.
6. Have no idea why you need it.
7. Room EQ is the very last step, after al the other steps
8. VituixCAD has built in preference rating, it is pretty accurate and similar to Harman curve. But as it is your speaker - you can choose any curve you want
9. Of course!
1. Setting speaker levels is possible only after measurement, as manufacturer data usually is not very correct and the measurements are done for 1kHz sine. Tweeter for example and woofer-subwoofer is not playing 1kHz in your project, so does not make sense. It is a curve (function), not a single digit.
2. Sim will show what curves you need, it is your project, choose the one you want to look good on graph AND to sound good.
3. BSC - trivial. That is part of crossover, probably with the right crossover slope there are no additional filters included. Your project is active, you have full control about it
4. 200Hz is not magic number, but if you can get full spinorama, you will see where the attention is needed. Trivial. But depending on the measurement, ~170-200Hz resolution is the best we can do when measuring in typical living rooms
5. I am not smart enough to comment about phase, but if you see it as separate driver delay - it can be simulated in VituixCAD and done in DSP. Polarity of course can be inverted too. It is the part of crossover too.
6. Have no idea why you need it.
7. Room EQ is the very last step, after al the other steps
8. VituixCAD has built in preference rating, it is pretty accurate and similar to Harman curve. But as it is your speaker - you can choose any curve you want
9. Of course!
Last edited:
Not sure what you mean. If there is any sound coloration? I do not expect it to have any sound of its own. Having said that, I did notice the sound of HF was a bit harsh with the old drivers, but this may have nothing to do with the Hypex. Will see with the new drivers. I expect no harshness.
ok, but I wanted to know about Hypex, does it drive well as an amp? great control? long story short, how amp is valid?