No. I'm not interested in single driver designs.
I build mostly small sealed 2-ways for crossing to a sub at 60hz.
For deep bass, speaker location is everything. My room, and preferred speaker placement, would have uneven bass. I like the speakers well into the room. Five or six feet. There's a big null around 55hz in that location. With a sub in a good location, there's not a null there. Since I cross to the sub at about 60hz, the null might even be a benefit. Nothing is perfect, but this works for me. There are nice subwoofer drivers that work well in very small boxes. My current sub is not small, but I'm considering one for another room, and it might be small. Maybe 1.5 cu-ft.
I'm looking at several. Here's one that I'm considering for a sealed design. It would be marginal for an action movie, but plenty for music. There's many options. It takes some looking to find the ideal driver. For music at modest SPL, it should be easier.
https://www.parts-express.com/Peerl...omex-Cone-Subwoofer-8-Ohm-264-1646?quantity=1
A simple sub in a good location might give you another six or seven dB below fifty hertz. Measuring helps find the good locations in the room.
I build mostly small sealed 2-ways for crossing to a sub at 60hz.
For deep bass, speaker location is everything. My room, and preferred speaker placement, would have uneven bass. I like the speakers well into the room. Five or six feet. There's a big null around 55hz in that location. With a sub in a good location, there's not a null there. Since I cross to the sub at about 60hz, the null might even be a benefit. Nothing is perfect, but this works for me. There are nice subwoofer drivers that work well in very small boxes. My current sub is not small, but I'm considering one for another room, and it might be small. Maybe 1.5 cu-ft.
I'm looking at several. Here's one that I'm considering for a sealed design. It would be marginal for an action movie, but plenty for music. There's many options. It takes some looking to find the ideal driver. For music at modest SPL, it should be easier.
https://www.parts-express.com/Peerl...omex-Cone-Subwoofer-8-Ohm-264-1646?quantity=1
A simple sub in a good location might give you another six or seven dB below fifty hertz. Measuring helps find the good locations in the room.
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not for 75€ ....I'm looking at several. Here's one that I'm considering for a sealed design.
https://www.parts-express.com/Peerl...omex-Cone-Subwoofer-8-Ohm-264-1646?quantity=1
Oh, I thought you were willing to spend more. If you don't want high SPL, there are less expensive options than the other one I mentioned. It's a driver I'm considering, but I need to play loud on occasion.
Possibly this one.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SD270A-88-10-DVC-Subwoofer-295-486?quantity=1
There's many options. What would you use for an amp? That makes a difference in choosing sometimes.
Possibly this one.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SD270A-88-10-DVC-Subwoofer-295-486?quantity=1
There's many options. What would you use for an amp? That makes a difference in choosing sometimes.
OK, I thought it could work with your current speakers and provide a smaller box..
Interestingly, I cannot help but wonder if your original Speaker components cannot be made to fulfil your requirements, possibly a new and better Xover in should allow them to give a bit more.
Sometimes a speaker stands or falls by its overall balance, getting Baffle step right, good crossover integration and setting treble balance correctly can make a poor speaker design better.
Maybe you should consider that as your first project if you proceed and purchase your measuring equipment.
If you want a full ranger hop over to the full range forum you will get some helpful advice there I am sure.
Interestingly, I cannot help but wonder if your original Speaker components cannot be made to fulfil your requirements, possibly a new and better Xover in should allow them to give a bit more.
Sometimes a speaker stands or falls by its overall balance, getting Baffle step right, good crossover integration and setting treble balance correctly can make a poor speaker design better.
Maybe you should consider that as your first project if you proceed and purchase your measuring equipment.
If you want a full ranger hop over to the full range forum you will get some helpful advice there I am sure.
I started my design using this one, then changed it with SB26SFCL38-8 due to the cone excursion.Oh, I thought you were willing to spend more. If you don't want high SPL, there are less expensive options than the other one I mentioned. It's a driver I'm considering, but I need to play loud on occasion.
Possibly this one.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SD270A-88-10-DVC-Subwoofer-295-486?quantity=1
There's many options. What would you use for an amp? That makes a difference in choosing sometimes.
Did you see any diy project based on SD270A-88?
I'm using a My_Ref Fremen Edition as amplifier
56€ when you log in, if you buy 2 pcs, at TLHPwith a woofer price around 75€
I have used a Peerless 10" woofer in a ported 3 cu-ft box, and with music. The 8mm x-max was sufficient for SPL in the 90dB to 95dB range. It was borderline at 98dB. A bigger driver can play louder at 8mm excursion. Some drivers are expensive because they have lower distortion at higher spl, or because they can work in a smaller box. Some need twice the power of others. It's interesting, and complicated. Some argue that more than one sub is needed. I have one nice 15". I need a second sub for my other room, and would prefer a smaller box, and would prefer to spend less, but that's hard to do. I may just buy another like I have, but it's about $250 currently.I started my design using this one, then changed it with SB26SFCL38-8 due to the cone excursion.
Did you see any diy project based on SD270A-88?
I'm using a My_Ref Fremen Edition as amplifier
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which one? SLS-P830668?I have used a Peerless 10" woofer in a ported 3 cu-ft box, and with music, excursion was not an issue, and an 8mm x-max was sufficient for SPL in the 90dB to 95dB range. It was borderline at 98dB.
thanks. I will take into account when I will decide to buy56€ when you log in, if you buy 2 pcs, at TLHP
View attachment 1452072
This is discontinued. I've had it for about 20 years. Used it in some 3-way center channel speakers and as a sub. They sell something very similar for about $70 I think. Yes, it's the 830668.
https://madisound.com/pdf/peerless/850146.pdf
https://madisound.com/pdf/peerless/850146.pdf
This is the driver I should buy.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...-Series-HF-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-295-468?quantity=1
I currently have the HO version of this. This is even better in a sealed 3 cu-ft box than the HO.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...-Series-HF-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-295-468?quantity=1
I currently have the HO version of this. This is even better in a sealed 3 cu-ft box than the HO.
Another question about vituix crossover simulation..
In the drivers tab, for each driver, which impedence should be used? The vendor one or the one simulated with Enclosure tool?
In the drivers tab, for each driver, which impedence should be used? The vendor one or the one simulated with Enclosure tool?
Yes, please.
I bought two SSF102.40 8 ohm drivers 2 years ago.
they still need some more breaking in and a new measurement.
the impedance and TSP measurement was done in ancient speaker workshop, with added mass.
so don't blame lavoce for the TSP deviations!

impedance free air:

and zoomed in:

response measurements done with REW on open baffle, at nearfield (non-gated), 10 cm distance (non-gated) and 25 cm (gated):

... and the (smoothed) datasheet response with overlay of the three curves shown above:

distorsion of nearfield measurement (thus H2 is stronger than it will be in farfield):

burst decay of 25 cm distance measurement:

the measurements reveal a (surround?) resonance at around 700 Hz.
severe cone breakup at 2 kHz.
this driver has a specially low installation depth of less than 10 cm - at the expense of a noisy suspension.
there will be some chuffing at the rear side at higher amplitudes, this was very noticeable during the breaking in!
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- 3 way project - final impedence too low