Good day.
What happens if you put the R and C in series and apply this parallel to the midrange inductor?
I think the C can work out around 0.22 -0.5uF. I cannot remember what the resistor value should be, and I don't have VituixCad on this laptop to help me.
This trick can work when the a woofer is used in a two way design, in this three way design probably because of the additional midrange shaping components it may prove to be a non starter, which may lead to the use of a dedicated notch. If you can get the response below 25dbs, maybe 30dBs it shouldn't be an issue for listening, even if it still gives the smallest of response wiggles.
What happens if you put the R and C in series and apply this parallel to the midrange inductor?
I think the C can work out around 0.22 -0.5uF. I cannot remember what the resistor value should be, and I don't have VituixCad on this laptop to help me.
This trick can work when the a woofer is used in a two way design, in this three way design probably because of the additional midrange shaping components it may prove to be a non starter, which may lead to the use of a dedicated notch. If you can get the response below 25dbs, maybe 30dBs it shouldn't be an issue for listening, even if it still gives the smallest of response wiggles.
You are trying to boost the response with a high Q filter and this shows a low impedance. This is why the baffle response was suggested, it would be interesting to find an excuse to reduce the treble. Perhaps you could introduce a downward tilt in the response.that cap is the cause of the low impedence. But change it is not so easy.
Make the 5k notch using a .7mH coil, a 2uf cap, and 1 ohm resistor in series with each other. Place that after the x-over between the + and - mid terminals. I guessed at the values. Change the cap to change the frequency. Change the coil to change the width of the notch.
thanks all
following your suggestion and trying to reuse the old schema I reached this point
I loose a bit in sensitivity, but at least the impedence seems good and also the slope is quite linear.
Wdyt?
following your suggestion and trying to reuse the old schema I reached this point
I loose a bit in sensitivity, but at least the impedence seems good and also the slope is quite linear.
Wdyt?
Those frd and zma files are handy for learning and practice. For the design of a real crossower, you will need the real files obtained by recording the drivers in the actual box. I don't understand why you use a 4 ohm tweeter?
I don't have any measurement instruments. The tweeter is part of my old speakers. I'm trying to reuse what I already have instead to by other drivers.Those frd and zma files are handy for learning and practice. For the design of a real crossower, you will need the real files obtained by recording the drivers in the actual box. I don't understand why you use a 4 ohm tweeter?
Make a notch like I suggested, and put it where I said. Good results will follow.
Can't put a resistor on the woofer that way!. It will overheat in about 30 seconds.
There's two types of notches. Parallel, and series. I can never remember which is which, so I described it for you. You have one type, but what you need is the other . At least worth a try.
Can't put a resistor on the woofer that way!. It will overheat in about 30 seconds.
There's two types of notches. Parallel, and series. I can never remember which is which, so I described it for you. You have one type, but what you need is the other . At least worth a try.
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Then why are you trying to design your own speaker? That is like trying to construct a wooden cabinet without ruler and try square.I don't have any measurement instruments.
Maybe just tune the bass reflex enclosure a bit lower to get rid if the bass peak?Wdyt?
Make a notch like I suggested, and put it where I said. Good results will follow.
Can't put a resistor on the woofer that way!. It will overheat in about 30 seconds.
There's two types of notches. Parallel, and series. I can never remember which is which, so I described it for you. You have one type, but what you need is the other . At least worth a try.
sorry i forgot to answer to your previos post.
I tryed it
Is this what you described? I hope that I understood well.
You values seems not correct, so I played a bit.
Not sure if it is really better. But may be I didn't understand what you described.
Don't leave. I'm going to check something. Change you're mid filter low-pass to a single .8mH coil. Get rid of everything else. (Keep the high-pass.)
I would disable the woofer and tweeter sections, and look just at the mid frequency response. Get rid of phase info on the SPL graph. Get down to basics. Forget impedance for the moment too.
I would disable the woofer and tweeter sections, and look just at the mid frequency response. Get rid of phase info on the SPL graph. Get down to basics. Forget impedance for the moment too.
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You still have 2.2ohm. Remove it.
something like this?Don't leave. I'm going to check something. Change you're mid filter low-pass to a single .8mH coil. Get rid of everything else. (Keep the high-pass.)
I would disable the woofer and tweeter sections, and look just at the mid frequency response. Get rid of phase info on the SPL graph. Get down to basics. Forget impedance for the moment too.
Yes. Are tweeter and woofer out of the circuit? Just remove a chunk of wire in the schematic.
I guess you removed their response with the software. I don't use that software, so I've seen others open a circuit.
The mid response looks like what I had in mind. Maybe some more adjustments, but very close.
Did you try .7mH, and 1.5uf and 1 ohm as a notch?
I guess you removed their response with the software. I don't use that software, so I've seen others open a circuit.
The mid response looks like what I had in mind. Maybe some more adjustments, but very close.
Did you try .7mH, and 1.5uf and 1 ohm as a notch?
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Interesting changes for post 37. What does the frequency response look like with the two other drivers enabled with those Xover values?
this is removing connection for tweeter and wooferYes. Are tweeter and woofer out of the circuit? Just remove a chunk of wire in the schematic.
I guess you removed their response with the software. I don't use that software, so I've seen others open a circuit.
The mid response looks like what I had in mind. Maybe some more adjustments, but very close.
Did you try .7mH, and 1.5uf and 1 ohm as a notch?
this is with values you suggested
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