3 way for my dad

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#2
Well, first and foremost, I'm certainly no expert. But, I've never let that stop me before.


1.) How experienced are you at designing and building speakers, and more importantly, crossovers?

If you are experienced and knowledgeable, fine. But if you are not, building a pair of speakers from scratch is very difficult for someone with limited experience.

2.) Next, you suggest a group of speakers, but where did this particular collection come from? Did you sort if out yourself, or are you copying an existing design you found somewhere?

If copying, what design and where, meaning give us a link to it.

If you made it up, how sure are you of your choices? If you picked them based on rated frequency response, there is very little chance of it working.

Again, I don't know you, I don't know your skill or experience level, but the advise most here would give is, copy an existing and proven design until you've built your first dozen speakers. Then you can branch off into ground up design.

To reach an existing and proven design, the designer has gone through countless hours of testing and redesign to get everything right.

If you are doing it on your own with no previous speaker design experience, you better count on a year of testing and design refinement.

Steve/bluewizard
 
#3
I'd start by considering what kind of music your Dad listens to, and what sized cabinets would he be happy to fit in with his existing furniture...

If he'd be happy with 2x 80L cabinets, then how about some links to the driver data so we tell you what we think about the drivers?
 
#5
Your driver selection is a little unconventional. The classic 3-way was a 10-12" woofer, a ~4-5" midrange and a 1" tweeter - crossover points ~ 500 and 4k. If you want a mid with more bass for a lower crossover, you would typically use a larger woofer as well. For a crossover as low as 1900Hz, a 3/4" is not likely suitable either.

A 3-way is at least 2-3 times more complex than a 2-way. If you want to build a 3-way, my suggestion is to look to a proven design instead of attempting to roll your own. I think you would have more success if you reviewed some existing designs and even technical reviews of loudspeakers and cut your teeth on a couple 2 way designs before attempting to design a 3-way.
 
#6

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#7
I've modelled with Boxsim on TS-parameters but I've not measured the drivers.

Here I have a frequencycurve which looks good I'd say.

By the way, my dad likes bass in music, so I told him this means an huge cabinet.
 

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#8
Picture made in Sketchup. The bassreflex-port is in the middle because of eastetics and calculated at about 20 Hz. I was wondering whether it's oke to say that both drivers mid and woofer use the same 80 liters? How can model the bassreflexport with two drivers on it?
 

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#9
Oeps I see the tweeter is 25mm so that's 1 inch instead of 3/4 inch. There are several Designs around Eton-drivers and for the crossover between mid and high I've looked at those.

This i my thirst own crossover. Before thisone
1. Linkwitz Orion, 2x Peerless 10", Seas W22 7", Seas Millenium
www.linkwitzlab.com
2. tangband fullrange
3. CSS FR125S fullrange
4. Eton Bluesmall Eton 550/8 and ER4
http://www.lautsprecherbau.de/
5. ...:cannotbe:

Added pictures
1. crossover
2. frequencyresponse
3. cabinet
4. section

sorry for last message I have to get used to not using TAB when typing a message :smash:
 

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#14
architect, looking at the cross section of the box in post #11, it looks like you are having the same box for woofer and mid....do you think it's a good idea for the midrange driver to be exposed to the woofers low frequencies? Its going to move like passive radiator in low fr area. May be I am wrong, but I would keep em separately.
 
#15
adason,
he is trying to use the same box tuning for both the bass and mid bass drivers. Still not a good idea.

architect,
see if you can perhaps expand the mid bass cabinet a bit (and separate from the woofer) so you can reach the desired 100Hz roll off. Either that or consider running the mid bass with an open back and raise the XO point of the woofer to accomodate the back wave cancellation.
 
#16
architect said:


about 80 liters bassreflex at 20 Hz
Click to expand...


How is that with Fs at 30hz and Xmax of 4.5mm and 80liter
If its with a very long port, dont do that

It looks more like 35hz, which is very good too

But it seems ok to loose some box volume fore the mid chamber, as it seem you are close to get the same bass rolloff with about 70liter netto

You asked how to model two ports
Just use the summed area of both ports

About your box design
Have you calculated the listening height
 
#20
Theres a paralel notch with 27mH in series with woofer what thats good fore
27mh, thats a big one, and in series with signal may not be so good
or do you know something I dont, is it EQ or....?

I have had curcuits on woofer and mid to remove low end ressonance, as I have learned to do so, but I have found that it work ok without and seems to sound better too - but those were series notch in paralel with driver

Also the paralel cap on woofer is awfully big, may not need to be that big...cheaper and easier when smaller


As Pete suggests, you may want to let the woofer play a little midbass

Also Im not sure its too good to have the woofer right down at the floor
 
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