I want to build some new desktop speakers, I have a pair of Audax full range drivers in a not well aligned 1/4 wave style pipe but they are missing the top end. I don't really want to go much above £50 on the pair, so far I have seen many that would seem to cover my needs the W3-871 and the Mark Audio CHR70 stick out. Are there any others that look decent that are worth considering or importantly any dogs that I should avoid. I only have about 8w to play with so something moderately efficient would be nice. I am looking for driver suggestions more than box ideas, just incase I have missed something worth looking at.
The CHS-70 on special at Oak Audio seem to fit the bill according to initial reports. I'm really starting to enjoy my CHR70s now that they have some hours on them. 🙂
Sorry, wasn't clear. Here is the driver I was recommending:
CHS-70 | Oak Audio
I don't own this driver but I have a variant of the CHR-70.2 and after about 100 hours it is beginning to sound really good. Lots of bass and a warm fun sound in small Karlsonators. As a bonus, it is not very picky about amplification and sounds nearly as good with a $10 TPA3116 as with a Pass First Watt F2! If the CHS-70 is as good or better and no driver rebate needed it is a great choice.
In an appropriate cabinet with an ACA amp, gain clone or modified 3116 this should make an excellent budget system.
CHS-70 | Oak Audio
I don't own this driver but I have a variant of the CHR-70.2 and after about 100 hours it is beginning to sound really good. Lots of bass and a warm fun sound in small Karlsonators. As a bonus, it is not very picky about amplification and sounds nearly as good with a $10 TPA3116 as with a Pass First Watt F2! If the CHS-70 is as good or better and no driver rebate needed it is a great choice.
In an appropriate cabinet with an ACA amp, gain clone or modified 3116 this should make an excellent budget system.
Thanks for all the ideas, I have ordered the Mark Audio CHS drivers they seem ideal for what I am doing, now I need to acquire some wood to make boxes, looking to see if I can get an old solid wood table off free cycle to chop up or a wardrobe or would ply work better. I was pondering making new desk with cutouts for floor standing speakers to emerge from or does that sound bonkers?

Put in temp boxes made out of bits of MDF in the shed all cuts etc done with hand tools part from a drill. Ill make a decent box later probably when the weather is better so I can work in the yard. Sound ok given its MDF and drivers need loosening up.
That was fast! Did they email you the drivers? 😀
No dimple, I'm wondering if they differ from the Pluvia in other aspects... I also ordered a pair but alas will have to wait until Monday at the earliest.
I believe it was recommended that you should run in these drivers gently. My CHR70s took at least 100 hours before they became really enjoyable. Let us know how they sound after some break in.
No dimple, I'm wondering if they differ from the Pluvia in other aspects... I also ordered a pair but alas will have to wait until Monday at the earliest.
I believe it was recommended that you should run in these drivers gently. My CHR70s took at least 100 hours before they became really enjoyable. Let us know how they sound after some break in.
Question for Scott or Dave: any chance these would work in a baby lab or is the Vas too large?
Perhaps a straight MLTL is the best bet?
Perhaps a straight MLTL is the best bet?
Depends what you call 'best' & what your goals are. I can do a labyrinth for them easily enough, although it'll be larger than some.
I was in a particularly bad place so I took all the anger out on some MDF that was lying around. They have vastly improved after about 8 hours of play, just running the TV sound through them now just to get hours on them. Defiantly need new boxes though as these are just a bit too small.That was fast! Did they email you the drivers? 😀
No dimple, I'm wondering if they differ from the Pluvia in other aspects... I also ordered a pair but alas will have to wait until Monday at the earliest.
I believe it was recommended that you should run in these drivers gently. My CHR70s took at least 100 hours before they became really enjoyable. Let us know how they sound after some break in.
Hi Scott, thanks for the reply. I would like to build relatively narrow boxes with decent extension and a bit of a bass bump, to obviate the need for baffle step correction, but with clear, intelligible vocals. Music only, most likely with no sub.
I enjoy my Karlsonators with CHR70.2 but as fun as they are I find the vocals could be "clearer". And my wife will not allow them in the salon! 🙂
I enjoy my Karlsonators with CHR70.2 but as fun as they are I find the vocals could be "clearer". And my wife will not allow them in the salon! 🙂
Any recommendations for 3" or 4" in sealed box
I have some sealed boxes that 1/8 ft3. I would like to change the drivers and reuse the boxes. They are nice looking boxes with walnut trim and speaker grills. I would be using them as a desktop system supplemented with a sub. A FAST system of sorts.
I have some fostex FE166En's so I am use to the fostex sound. So any recommendations for 3" or 4" drivers that will work well in a sealed enclosure of 1/8" ft3?
Music is rock or blues in a near field setting. Low to moderate volumes.
thanks,
I have some sealed boxes that 1/8 ft3. I would like to change the drivers and reuse the boxes. They are nice looking boxes with walnut trim and speaker grills. I would be using them as a desktop system supplemented with a sub. A FAST system of sorts.
I have some fostex FE166En's so I am use to the fostex sound. So any recommendations for 3" or 4" drivers that will work well in a sealed enclosure of 1/8" ft3?
Music is rock or blues in a near field setting. Low to moderate volumes.
thanks,
1/8" ft^3 = 3.5 litre
to get any hint of bass you'll need to vent them.
Some drivers i have handy in the sim sw:
Sealed 3.5 litre,
FE103En F3 ~200, F10 ~100Hz, Q = 0.53
FE126En F3 ~200, F10 ~100Hz, Q = 0.56
FF85wk F3 ~140, F10 ~80Hz, Q = 0.63
FF105wk F3 ~120, F10 ~70Hz, Q = 0.63
FF125wk F3 ~110, F10 ~66Hz, Q = 0.73
A5.2 F3 ~130, F10 ~72Hz, Q = 0.61
A6m F3 ~120, F10 ~60Hz, Q = 0.58
A6p F3 ~110, F10 ~73Hz, Q = 0.75
Pluvia 7 F3 ~91, F10 ~60Hz, Q = 0.86
A7.3 F3 ~97, F10 ~60Hz, Q = 0.82
dave
to get any hint of bass you'll need to vent them.
Some drivers i have handy in the sim sw:
Sealed 3.5 litre,
FE103En F3 ~200, F10 ~100Hz, Q = 0.53
FE126En F3 ~200, F10 ~100Hz, Q = 0.56
FF85wk F3 ~140, F10 ~80Hz, Q = 0.63
FF105wk F3 ~120, F10 ~70Hz, Q = 0.63
FF125wk F3 ~110, F10 ~66Hz, Q = 0.73
A5.2 F3 ~130, F10 ~72Hz, Q = 0.61
A6m F3 ~120, F10 ~60Hz, Q = 0.58
A6p F3 ~110, F10 ~73Hz, Q = 0.75
Pluvia 7 F3 ~91, F10 ~60Hz, Q = 0.86
A7.3 F3 ~97, F10 ~60Hz, Q = 0.82
dave
thanks Dave
thanks Dave for providing those options.
For musical choices I focus on guitar centered music. Electric and acoustic. And the older I get the more I just want my system to sound musical. I don't get caught up in soundstage or imaging anymore.
That said, I believe I have read that you are a fan of the FF85WK. Any other speakers from that list that you would recommend with my limited and vague criteria. 😉.
Also on Q, I have read different preferred numbers. What range for Q does your experience recommend.
thanks again.
thanks Dave for providing those options.
For musical choices I focus on guitar centered music. Electric and acoustic. And the older I get the more I just want my system to sound musical. I don't get caught up in soundstage or imaging anymore.
That said, I believe I have read that you are a fan of the FF85WK. Any other speakers from that list that you would recommend with my limited and vague criteria. 😉.
Also on Q, I have read different preferred numbers. What range for Q does your experience recommend.
thanks again.
I believe I have read that you are a fan of the FF85WK. Any other speakers from that list that you would recommend with my limited and vague criteria.
Been asked that alot. I am a big fan of the FF85wKeN, our tweaked version of the driver. We have just done up 2 sets of uFonkenPlus, one with stock drivers the other with treated drivers measured to the same sensitivity. Hopefully soon i will be able to make good comments on the stock driver.
Our other favorite midTweeter is the A7.3eN. The new A5.2 is a candidate to go head-to-head with the FF85
Also on Q, I have read different preferred numbers. What range for Q does your experience recommend.
You are planning to XO them, probably 0.58-0.9 would be best.
dave
Buy some passable Headphones?
Decent ones feature 30 mm driver units.
Not massively different than a 70 mm (claimed as a 4") speaker.
Decent ones feature 30 mm driver units.
Not massively different than a 70 mm (claimed as a 4") speaker.
Not massively different than a 70 mm (claimed as a 4") speaker.
Pretty standard cone size for a 4".
dave
Been asked that alot. I am a big fan of the FF85wKeN, our tweaked version of the driver. We have just done up 2 sets of uFonkenPlus, one with stock drivers the other with treated drivers measured to the same sensitivity. Hopefully soon i will be able to make good comments on the stock driver.
Our other favorite midTweeter is the A7.3eN. The new A5.2 is a candidate to go head-to-head with the FF85
You are planning to XO them, probably 0.58-0.9 would be best.
dave
How much bigger is the uFonkenPlus than the standard uFonkenWK ? Are there any pictures and why the bigger box ?
The uFonken is 2 litres… this was the maximum the older FF85k wanted. The FF85wk is OK with a larger 2.5 litre box, and goes ~10 Hz lower. This is what we use for the uFonkenSET. The uFonkenPlus uses this same larger volume in the same format as the uFonken.
Listening to one of the 1st pairs as we speak.
dave

Listening to one of the 1st pairs as we speak.
dave
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