Hello again, buying parts on weekend so last checkup:
I'm going to use W3-1876S Sub + OmnesAudio T25 tweeter crossed at 1900Hz 4th order. (details in photo)
What do you think of this? Is crossing at this point not too high for subwoofer and not too low for the tweeter (harshness)?
If there are any problems with this setup I'll just use fullrange instead of a tweeter and cross lower.
Tweeter graphs:http://www.oaudio.de/en/Loudspeaker...esAudio/Tweeter/OmnesAudio-T25-H-Tweeter.html
Subwoofer graphs: http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-909-tang-band-w3-1876s-specifications.pdf
Thank you !
I'm going to use W3-1876S Sub + OmnesAudio T25 tweeter crossed at 1900Hz 4th order. (details in photo)
What do you think of this? Is crossing at this point not too high for subwoofer and not too low for the tweeter (harshness)?
If there are any problems with this setup I'll just use fullrange instead of a tweeter and cross lower.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
https://postimage.org/index.php?lang=englishTweeter graphs:http://www.oaudio.de/en/Loudspeaker...esAudio/Tweeter/OmnesAudio-T25-H-Tweeter.html
Subwoofer graphs: http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-909-tang-band-w3-1876s-specifications.pdf
Thank you !
Looking at both PDF's, i might consider 1.5kHz - 1.6kHz as a Starting point to evaluate. Plus, the PDF graphs are Not guaranteed to 100% match your Actual drivers !
If you could get hold of, borrow, an active 24db Variable Xover to determine what suits you, before you buy or build a fixed point Xover, so much the better. And/or a decent test Mic & software to measure. Otherwise it's just pot luck that you acheive the best Xover point !
If you could get hold of, borrow, an active 24db Variable Xover to determine what suits you, before you buy or build a fixed point Xover, so much the better. And/or a decent test Mic & software to measure. Otherwise it's just pot luck that you acheive the best Xover point !
Thank you. Just bought W3-1876S subwoofer. Hope it will arrive until christmas. Anyways, I didn't buy a tweeter, I'll better stick with fullranges as it won't be as strained in both frequency ends. I'm making 40Hz 6th order subsonic today! 🙂
Looked into Elliot 6th order subsonic schematics. I have all the parts but I'm pretty confused now. C7 and C8 seems to have only one end connected? Where should that -15V go? Unconnected?
Thanks
P.S. Feeling stupid 🙁
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
https://postimage.org/index.php?lang=englishThanks
P.S. Feeling stupid 🙁
Thanks. Now I'm 50-50 sure 🙂 . Probably I'm just making short circuit :/ . Red lines represents wiring. Is it so ?
P.S. I could use a tweeter but when a subwoofer plays hardly up to 1900Hz flat and tweeter down to 1600Hz flat can the quality of sound (bass deepness and weight especialy) be unaffected when both tweeter and subwoofer have to play very wide range? Wouldn't a fullrange relieve both drivers crossed at something like 200-500Hz thus making quality of whole spectrum better, but certainly upper treble excluded (Minirig 2.1 scenario)?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
P.S. I could use a tweeter but when a subwoofer plays hardly up to 1900Hz flat and tweeter down to 1600Hz flat can the quality of sound (bass deepness and weight especialy) be unaffected when both tweeter and subwoofer have to play very wide range? Wouldn't a fullrange relieve both drivers crossed at something like 200-500Hz thus making quality of whole spectrum better, but certainly upper treble excluded (Minirig 2.1 scenario)?
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Yes the Red lines do represent the wiring from the caps tp -15V. Though i would put Red = + & Black = -
Looking at how you included the battery into the circuit, makes me wonder if you realise it won't work like that ? The circuit, as is, needs both a +15V & -15V power supply. You can't get that from just one battery ! The circuit would work with a PS of between +9V to +12V & -9V to -12V which could be 2 x 9V or 2 x 12V batteries, as in my screenie
What voltage is the PS for the Amp/s going to be ?
BEFORE you connect ANYTHING to ANYTHING, post back with answers, otherwise .....
Re Tweeter versus Fullrange.
It's up to you what you prefer. Try both ways, if you can
Looking at how you included the battery into the circuit, makes me wonder if you realise it won't work like that ? The circuit, as is, needs both a +15V & -15V power supply. You can't get that from just one battery ! The circuit would work with a PS of between +9V to +12V & -9V to -12V which could be 2 x 9V or 2 x 12V batteries, as in my screenie
What voltage is the PS for the Amp/s going to be ?
BEFORE you connect ANYTHING to ANYTHING, post back with answers, otherwise .....
Re Tweeter versus Fullrange.
It's up to you what you prefer. Try both ways, if you can
Attachments
Using an OPA1642 ($3.33) or OPA1652 ($1.72) for the IC will give you much better performance; though they are both SOIC-only. If a DIP is required, an OPA2134 ($3.90) is the ticket. A little more $$$ than the TL072 ($0.64), but well worth it.
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I'm going to use NE5532. Do you think spending more for opa1652/42 is worth it?
Absolutely! Distortion (THD) on an NE5532 = -94 db; OPA1642/52 = -126 db.
Also slightly better noise figure and faster slew rate.
dotneck.... please spare us!
Three resoundingly dubious aspects to the post.
-1- -94dB vs 126dB. Really nice to quote numbers. They have a magic of their own when used out of context. To quote both of these in the same sentence is silly.
A 5532 in a G=-1 configuration has vanishingly low distortion, which is the number you conveniently quote for the OPA1642.
-2- What earthly subwoofer would have distortion less than two or probably three orders of magnitude more than either op amp! A 3.5" subwoofer is doing a miraculous job to simply be a sobwoofer, set aside levels of distortion.
-3- I challenge you to do any of the following:
- Find a piece of test gear in your lab that can readily measure -126dBc distortion (at any frequency)
- Build a circuit that actually measures this level of distortion
- Show a source that generates a signal at this level of distortion
- Build a real world thing more complex than a block of copper that exhibits this levek if distortion
- for ANY of the above... to be able to sneeze or shout at it without the distortion changing remarkably.
Xappys...
Both op amps are just fine. The 5532 has been around for ever which means it is not shiny and new, and yes there are new devices that are technically "better". Just keep grounded about what "better" means. Sometimes it is all a bit fluffy.
If I had both in my parts draw, I would use the 1642, but I would not hesitate for a second to use the 5532. Don't fuss about either.
Three resoundingly dubious aspects to the post.
-1- -94dB vs 126dB. Really nice to quote numbers. They have a magic of their own when used out of context. To quote both of these in the same sentence is silly.
A 5532 in a G=-1 configuration has vanishingly low distortion, which is the number you conveniently quote for the OPA1642.
-2- What earthly subwoofer would have distortion less than two or probably three orders of magnitude more than either op amp! A 3.5" subwoofer is doing a miraculous job to simply be a sobwoofer, set aside levels of distortion.
-3- I challenge you to do any of the following:
- Find a piece of test gear in your lab that can readily measure -126dBc distortion (at any frequency)
- Build a circuit that actually measures this level of distortion
- Show a source that generates a signal at this level of distortion
- Build a real world thing more complex than a block of copper that exhibits this levek if distortion
- for ANY of the above... to be able to sneeze or shout at it without the distortion changing remarkably.
Xappys...
Both op amps are just fine. The 5532 has been around for ever which means it is not shiny and new, and yes there are new devices that are technically "better". Just keep grounded about what "better" means. Sometimes it is all a bit fluffy.
If I had both in my parts draw, I would use the 1642, but I would not hesitate for a second to use the 5532. Don't fuss about either.
Thanks, I have already thought like that because it filters the unplayable subsonic frequencies. In crossover function opa1642 would make more sense, wouldn't it?
Spare you WHAT?
[/QUOTE]
Three resoundingly dubious aspects to the post.
-1- -94dB vs 126dB. Really nice to quote numbers. They have a magic of their own when used out of context. To quote both of these in the same sentence is silly. [/QUOTE]
???????????????????????
[/QUOTE]
-2- What earthly subwoofer would have distortion less than two or probably three orders of magnitude more than either op amp![/QUOTE]
None, probably....
[/QUOTE]
-3- I challenge you to do any of the following:
- Find a piece of test gear in your lab that can readily measure -126dBc distortion (at any frequency)
- Build a circuit that actually measures this level of distortion
- Show a source that generates a signal at this level of distortion
- Build a real world thing more complex than a block of copper that exhibits this level if distortion[/QUOTE]
Can't. And neither can you, probably. Just quoting the datasheets and trying to find the best.
[/QUOTE] Just keep grounded about what "better" means. [/QUOTE]
Star-grounded or Galactic-grounded?🙄
[/QUOTE] If I had both in my parts draw, I would use the 1642[/QUOTE]
Q.E.D.
I'm almost finished with subsonic filter. It should go before amplifier, right? As seen from schematics, pins 1 and 2 of op-amp seem to be connected together and then go to capacitors / resistors. 1) So can I just short pins 1 and 2 using solder in between?
2) Also, could you upload full schematics with all wiring of batteries shown?
3) Dumb question again: Input and Output only have one connection so how can I connect speaker's / amplifier's postive and negative terminals?
Thank you for your time!
2) Also, could you upload full schematics with all wiring of batteries shown?
3) Dumb question again: Input and Output only have one connection so how can I connect speaker's / amplifier's postive and negative terminals?
Thank you for your time!
@ Xappys
If you respond Fully to my earlier post, i would be more inclined to assist you further.
You won't hear any difference with a 5532 😉
If you respond Fully to my earlier post, i would be more inclined to assist you further.
You won't hear any difference with a 5532 😉
As I mentioned I'm going to use NE5532. I could finish subsonic today if I knew the following:
1) Can I short pins 1 and 2 (In- with output) as it looks like it from schematics.
2)I'm leaning to use 2 x 18650 battery packs (3 batteries per pack so approx 12.6V full each)
3)Input and Output only have one connection so how can I connect speaker's / amplifier's postive and negative terminals?
4) Subsonic must go before amplifier?
Thank you
1) Can I short pins 1 and 2 (In- with output) as it looks like it from schematics.
2)I'm leaning to use 2 x 18650 battery packs (3 batteries per pack so approx 12.6V full each)
3)Input and Output only have one connection so how can I connect speaker's / amplifier's postive and negative terminals?
4) Subsonic must go before amplifier?
Thank you
@ Xappys
Yes on the first half of a Dual OpAmp = UA1. on the other half UA2 it's pins 7 & 6. The diagram is wrong !
OK, BUT, what battery voltage are you going to use for the Amp ? You probaly don't need + & - 12.6V for the Sub Filter. + & - 4.2V = 2 x battery packs should be fine for IT. The Amp needs more voltage, & does NOT need a + & - supply, Only a + & common/ground !
Not sure what you mean Exactly ! I'm presuming the TPA3116 2.1 you already have is a ready made built Amp on a PCB that you bought, & did not build yourself ?
You said you like how it sounds, so how have you wired up the speaker/s & inputs before now ? If you can draw a diagram & post it, so much the better.
What voltage was the power supply for it ?
YES, Definately !!! The Subsonic filter is NOT stereo, it's Mono, which i thought you realised ? You need 2 for stereo !
*
I believe you really need to stop & think more about All this.
Having 3 batteries doesn't make sense. If the Sub filters were redesigned to work off the same single battery as the Amp, that would be a LOT better for you ! Plus you could have a higher voltage supply = more power to the speakers
If you like, i could do that for you
Yes on the first half of a Dual OpAmp = UA1. on the other half UA2 it's pins 7 & 6. The diagram is wrong !
OK, BUT, what battery voltage are you going to use for the Amp ? You probaly don't need + & - 12.6V for the Sub Filter. + & - 4.2V = 2 x battery packs should be fine for IT. The Amp needs more voltage, & does NOT need a + & - supply, Only a + & common/ground !
Not sure what you mean Exactly ! I'm presuming the TPA3116 2.1 you already have is a ready made built Amp on a PCB that you bought, & did not build yourself ?
You said you like how it sounds, so how have you wired up the speaker/s & inputs before now ? If you can draw a diagram & post it, so much the better.
What voltage was the power supply for it ?
YES, Definately !!! The Subsonic filter is NOT stereo, it's Mono, which i thought you realised ? You need 2 for stereo !
*
I believe you really need to stop & think more about All this.
Having 3 batteries doesn't make sense. If the Sub filters were redesigned to work off the same single battery as the Amp, that would be a LOT better for you ! Plus you could have a higher voltage supply = more power to the speakers
If you like, i could do that for you
Hello everyone, sorry for being away for so long.
Well I've shaped my plans a bit differently: made a 2.1 system for PC. As a subwoofer driver I used Omnes Audio SW6.01. It was quite cheap - under 40 euros with delivery. As sattelites I used 2.5" fullranges from Sony dock.
Details:
• Subwoofer is ported, tuned to about 36 Hz for pretty much flat response.
• Port is only 3.8 cm diameter, but for my relatively quiet listening doesn't make obvious chuffing noise.
• Fullranges are in 600 cm3 sealed boxes with lightly stuffed polyfill.
• Subwoofer box is made out of chip board (I know it's bad, that's only stuff I had at that time), Fullrange box is 12mm MDF.
If anybody is interested, I could upload some photos + frequency measurements + soundtest ON WEEKEND.
Thanks for reading ! 🙂
Well I've shaped my plans a bit differently: made a 2.1 system for PC. As a subwoofer driver I used Omnes Audio SW6.01. It was quite cheap - under 40 euros with delivery. As sattelites I used 2.5" fullranges from Sony dock.
Details:
• Subwoofer is ported, tuned to about 36 Hz for pretty much flat response.
• Port is only 3.8 cm diameter, but for my relatively quiet listening doesn't make obvious chuffing noise.
• Fullranges are in 600 cm3 sealed boxes with lightly stuffed polyfill.
• Subwoofer box is made out of chip board (I know it's bad, that's only stuff I had at that time), Fullrange box is 12mm MDF.
If anybody is interested, I could upload some photos + frequency measurements + soundtest ON WEEKEND.
Thanks for reading ! 🙂
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