Shipping cost aside , I am quite certain 30cm is plenty.
**Edit : Did I miss anything? Shipping is free, is it not?
Attachments
Yes, they fit the 4 pin output connector on the board, with a 3.96mm pin pitch.
Apologies, although the above should fit, the correct cables are:
http://www.ghentaudio.com/item/jst/vhr3n-cable.html For the AC connection, (middle pin not used)
http://www.ghentaudio.com/item/jst/vhr4n-cable.html For the speaker connections
Oh yes he is referring to the shipping cost of amp case. ,,,🤣 I misread his statement earlier.
Do you know the practical difference between the VHR-N and the VHR-M it seems to be some type of "Electric Shock Prevention"? Although Ghent doesn't list the 3 pin "M" version, other sites do have it (because I assume this would apply more to the 3-pin power connection than the speaker connections).
Is it just that it covers the pin slots where the tab pops out to secure it (making it harder to change them later)?
I've tried to find a description of the differences, without success. I think it ids as you describe, the pin release is shrouded on the -M, requiring a different method to release.
Hi George. Beats me. Static charge smote the LED. Understandable but I've got $3 amps that are 5 years old and the LED's still work fine. This Eric Amp is mounted on a wood plank along w/ RCA interface. Two conductor power in. The one mounting hole with ground symbol is grounded to earth. Still using the amp - love the sound.
Hi bonjo.
Nice to hear that the amplifier is intact. Please check if the floor carpet is synthetic. Thousants of volts build up simply while walking over the room.
If floor carpet is synthetic , you have to discharge yourself before touching the hardware.
It is a week now that I have received a second unit.
One module is playing music 18 hours per day, the other is being tortured on the test bench for the same amount of time.
No causalties yet.
George
Nice to hear that the amplifier is intact. Please check if the floor carpet is synthetic. Thousants of volts build up simply while walking over the room.
If floor carpet is synthetic , you have to discharge yourself before touching the hardware.
It is a week now that I have received a second unit.
One module is playing music 18 hours per day, the other is being tortured on the test bench for the same amount of time.
No causalties yet.
George
Attachments
Good advice George.
It is winter where I live and the house gets dry from the wood pellet stove. Most times when walking across the carpet the first thing to be touched gets Zapped⚡, sometimes it's the dog!
. I learned a while ago to discharge myself by touching the metal framework on an adjacent cabinet before the audio system.
Great to hear all the good reports. I am now waiting to order the FFA002 when Eric gets back to work. I am back to work today after a long school holiday break. Hope all had a lovely festive season and happy new year to all. I now have received all the parts like fancy switches and fans for my FFA001
Thanks and regards
Randy
Thanks and regards
Randy
Still working through other must-do projects, so I have not tested my amp. Hopefully today if I get the porch finished. However, with regard to earlier discussions about fixed gain -- and given that an electronic circuit project is on my to-do list -- would the Nelson Pass B1 Buffer Preamp be suitable here? Or is there another more suited for a beginner / non-electrical engineer (and assembling is fine for me, no desire to go too far down the design road)
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/b1-buffer-preamp.124889/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/b1-buffer-preamp.124889/
I tested the amplifier board today and it sounds really good for the price!
I was really impressed!
But it lacks a bit of texture (in comparison to my Denafrips Thello) and a bit of detail and separation.
Obviously that for the price is excellent!
Even though, Is there a way to improve this module a bit?
I was really impressed!
But it lacks a bit of texture (in comparison to my Denafrips Thello) and a bit of detail and separation.
Obviously that for the price is excellent!
Even though, Is there a way to improve this module a bit?
Hi Ian
An easy and risk free way is to bypass the input buffer and drive the main board directly, differential or single ended. It is a bit of low Rin (around 7kOhm differential, 3.5kOhm single ended)
Cannon fodder, b1 buffer is
https://www.passdiy.com/project/preamplifiers/b1-buffer-preamp
George
An easy and risk free way is to bypass the input buffer and drive the main board directly, differential or single ended. It is a bit of low Rin (around 7kOhm differential, 3.5kOhm single ended)
Cannon fodder, b1 buffer is
https://www.passdiy.com/project/preamplifiers/b1-buffer-preamp
George