Alrighty then!
Received my Cardas parts yesterday. I fully expected the binding posts to be sturdy but these are really bombproof!
Spent 15 minutes looking at the spades, still haven't figured out how to mount these. I think crimping is indeed the way to go, there's no way my 20watt soldering iron is up to this job.
Many thanks Rodd!!!
Greetings,
Jarno.
Received my Cardas parts yesterday. I fully expected the binding posts to be sturdy but these are really bombproof!
Spent 15 minutes looking at the spades, still haven't figured out how to mount these. I think crimping is indeed the way to go, there's no way my 20watt soldering iron is up to this job.
Many thanks Rodd!!!
Greetings,
Jarno.
A funny experience.....
I bought 2 pairs of the long bindingposts, rhodium over silver.
When Rodd sent me the pricelist I had never seen the cardas products before (or had not paid attention), but I thought at the price they were offered at the group buy, I wouldnt bother machining some myself...and then there was the plating as well , I looked at the pics at the cardas homepage and chose what seemed good.
I got the bindingposts a couple of days ago, and was impressed by the generally good quality.
So I sat there in front of the computer, I did a search for spades to match the bindingposts, just to see what pricerange the spades from cardas were, and see if it would pay off to machine some myself. The was the pricelist
75 USD a pair for the bindingposts I bought here through Rodd....damn, now I understand why people keep on talking about those....looong time after they have bought them.
Thats 300USD for amp and speakers
Great group buy 🙂
Magura🙂
I bought 2 pairs of the long bindingposts, rhodium over silver.
When Rodd sent me the pricelist I had never seen the cardas products before (or had not paid attention), but I thought at the price they were offered at the group buy, I wouldnt bother machining some myself...and then there was the plating as well , I looked at the pics at the cardas homepage and chose what seemed good.
I got the bindingposts a couple of days ago, and was impressed by the generally good quality.
So I sat there in front of the computer, I did a search for spades to match the bindingposts, just to see what pricerange the spades from cardas were, and see if it would pay off to machine some myself. The was the pricelist



75 USD a pair for the bindingposts I bought here through Rodd....damn, now I understand why people keep on talking about those....looong time after they have bought them.
Thats 300USD for amp and speakers



Great group buy 🙂
Magura🙂
Thanks roddyama,
I spent the afternoon doing my
I got new solder dance
can't wait to fire up that hakko iron and solder up some of those shiny new rhodium plated parts
cheers,
dave
I spent the afternoon doing my
I got new solder dance
can't wait to fire up that hakko iron and solder up some of those shiny new rhodium plated parts
cheers,
dave
My Cardas shipment arrived today - except for the solder. Will it arrive separately?
Everything else looks great. Many thanks.
Those patented binding posts sure took a bit to figure out...
Everything else looks great. Many thanks.
Those patented binding posts sure took a bit to figure out...

Wow, I didn't expect delivery to New Zealand to be so quick.
Thanks for the time and effort you have put into this,
Cheers, Adrian
Thanks for the time and effort you have put into this,
Cheers, Adrian
Thanks for a great group buy!
Got some of the Copper binding posts. Is there anything that can be used to coat these to slow down corrosion? I have some Pro Gold but didn't know if something else worked better.
Also, when soldering the 'ground' to the female chassis mount RCA's, do you just put the wire in the flange slot(looks like a spanner slot) and use high temp to heat the flange?
Thanks, and yes this is the first time I've had "quality" parts like this to sling solder on.
ScottW
Got some of the Copper binding posts. Is there anything that can be used to coat these to slow down corrosion? I have some Pro Gold but didn't know if something else worked better.
Also, when soldering the 'ground' to the female chassis mount RCA's, do you just put the wire in the flange slot(looks like a spanner slot) and use high temp to heat the flange?
Thanks, and yes this is the first time I've had "quality" parts like this to sling solder on.
ScottW
Check the first 5 pages of this thread.scottw said:Thanks for a great group buy!
Got some of the Copper binding posts. Is there anything that can be used to coat these to slow down corrosion? I have some Pro Gold but didn't know if something else worked better.
Yes.scottw said:Also, when soldering the 'ground' to the female chassis mount RCA's, do you just put the wire in the flange slot(looks like a spanner slot) and use high temp to heat the flange?
Re: A Couple Clarifications From Cardas
Here are a couple of clarifications on some of the Cardas parts
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I bought the CFTAs to replace a supply of Tiffany RCA female sockets I have been using.
They seem to be reasonable quality but nothing to write home about compared to good quality commercial parts, especially ones that can be bought cheaply in Hong Kong. Compared to Maplin parts in the UK, the plating is probably superior.
I think I shall stick to premium Cardas parts in future.
What is the correct way of tughtly mounting RCA jacks without hex nuts on the protruding section? Up to now I have used mole grips, separated by tape on quality boxes and just on bare metal for uncritical cosmetic duty.

Here are a couple of clarifications on some of the Cardas parts
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I bought the CFTAs to replace a supply of Tiffany RCA female sockets I have been using.
They seem to be reasonable quality but nothing to write home about compared to good quality commercial parts, especially ones that can be bought cheaply in Hong Kong. Compared to Maplin parts in the UK, the plating is probably superior.
I think I shall stick to premium Cardas parts in future.
What is the correct way of tughtly mounting RCA jacks without hex nuts on the protruding section? Up to now I have used mole grips, separated by tape on quality boxes and just on bare metal for uncritical cosmetic duty.

The mech. quality of rca's and bindingposts is fair on most, even the cheaper ones. The big deal is actually the plating. For the plating to be adequately well adhered and resonably low porousity, it takes you are willing to pay for good quality control.
Magura🙂
Magura🙂
Magura said:The mech. quality of rca's and bindingposts is fair on most, even the cheaper ones. The big deal is actually the plating. For the plating to be adequately well adhered and resonably low porousity, it takes you are willing to pay for good quality control.
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I agree. On this count, WBT premium RCAs have poor palting on some samples. this is consistent over a long period of experience.
I mentioned this to the German designer, Dr --- , at a hifi show and he just looked at me and never even answered. Such Arrogance!!
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As I wrote earlier, Im impressed with the overall quality of cardas. The plating is second to none. Mostly you can detect cracks in the plating with an average microscope and some special red spray thats setteling in the cracks. I couldnt do that with the cardas.
Magura🙂
Magura🙂
Goods arrived..Thanks Rodd!
Don't forget they are non-magnetic as well.The plating is second to none.
The New 2nd Annual Cardas Bulk Purchase Schedule Update.
The Back-Ordered parts should be in and shipped to ME by this weekend. I should get the shipment by mid next week.
The Back-Ordered parts should be in and shipped to ME by this weekend. I should get the shipment by mid next week.
Bas Horneman said:
Don't forget they are non-magnetic as well.
Dont forget that magnetic copper or brass is hard to come by 😉
Magura🙂
Edit:
I have just been educated that teflon sounds bad, and that it must be replaced with cotton at any cost....so the RCA's are doomed.
Magura said:
Dont forget that magnetic copper or brass is hard to come by 😉
Magura
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Don't gorget that cheaper RCAs use Nickel sub-plate under the Gold.
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