Here is a 2.75 liter cabinet for the FE85 that may work for the FE83.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/268524-xki-xs-ab-initio-karlson-6th-order-bandpass-5.html#post4200325
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/268524-xki-xs-ab-initio-karlson-6th-order-bandpass-5.html#post4200325
No, in fact the Karlson aperture acts as an acoustic lens to improve the dispersion and it is uniform over 0 to 45 deg. The aperture introduces a couple of frequency features (the famous "W") but they don't sound bad. The wide and uniform dispersion makes up for this in many cases. The speaker sounds very good and has a huge sweet spot.
Look at the polars on the RS100P-4:
at towards the top of the slot, I hear no significant timbre change in a 90 degree window on the little Karlsonator😀 The small driver and small slot are good in that aspect. My L.Cao F6 in a Karlsonator 6 has more noticeable shift in the 10K region. Rainstorm recordings are good things to show the warts on fullrange speakers. Several large fullrange have been tried in the Karlsonator12 with good result and if I were motivated, would load coaxial 10" and 12" - but those aren't very popular on the fullrange forum.
This look about right?
(Link in prior post didn't seem to work, so I deleted it and converted it to a jpeg🙂
https://www.dropbox.com/s/orwjihirugnzc54/Picture 15.jpg?dl=0
(Link in prior post didn't seem to work, so I deleted it and converted it to a jpeg🙂
https://www.dropbox.com/s/orwjihirugnzc54/Picture 15.jpg?dl=0
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Should the curtain be thinner than 1/2, and if so, how thin before it becomes its own resonator, and if not, should it be chamfered in back or tapered?
Looks very nice - great drawing. Since your material is thicker - I would increase the chamber depth a bit to account for added volume of wood in vent and baffle panel. Instead of 6-3/8 make it 6-3/4. Front panel with aperture can be as thin as 1/4 in even - half may be too thick for good lens effect. If you can make it out of thin plexiglas or aluminum even. I use 0.1875 this foam core and it vibrates but doesn't bother me.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I wonder if the acoustic activation of the foam core by the driver and vent behind it are contributing to off-axis performance? I have some scraps of 1/4" apple ply that would be perfect, I think, for the curtain..
confused, 66mm is near 2 5/8"?, closed-cell foam as used in packing?.
any suggestion of dimensions for .134 sq ft?, sealed cabinet...
any pictures by chance?
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You're quite right, I was relying on an excel conversion spreadsheet with a typo!
But wait, that's not all... it appears my laptop slipped an auto-correctionby me that would have consequences... NOT closed-cell, but open-cell foam. You want to add resistance to the passage of air, but closed cell foam would bottle it up... Sorry for the confusion.
Here's my lash-up box for the sealed cabinet:
But wait, that's not all... it appears my laptop slipped an auto-correctionby me that would have consequences... NOT closed-cell, but open-cell foam. You want to add resistance to the passage of air, but closed cell foam would bottle it up... Sorry for the confusion.
Here's my lash-up box for the sealed cabinet:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Hi Greg
The link is vexing me! Here is again:
The link is vexing me! Here is again:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Drivers this size have very small mounting holes - while your drawing may be only representative, I'd strongly suggest using terminals that can mounted from the outside.
We happen to use a dirt cheap round plastic recessed cup with 5-way binding posts - requires a 2" hole saw- and 4 #5 x 1/2" wood screws. After over 10 annual DIY love-ins, we've yet to have someone feel strongly enough to demonstrate that the mondo mass / bling gold plated WBT / Cardas , or ultra low mass $$ Eichmann pods sound better- and yes, we've tried several of those audiophile grade connectors during the past 15yrs.
But as always, YMMV
And FWIW, I'd be inclined to orient the lower brace vertically, off centre
We happen to use a dirt cheap round plastic recessed cup with 5-way binding posts - requires a 2" hole saw- and 4 #5 x 1/2" wood screws. After over 10 annual DIY love-ins, we've yet to have someone feel strongly enough to demonstrate that the mondo mass / bling gold plated WBT / Cardas , or ultra low mass $$ Eichmann pods sound better- and yes, we've tried several of those audiophile grade connectors during the past 15yrs.
But as always, YMMV
And FWIW, I'd be inclined to orient the lower brace vertically, off centre
Thanks Chris! Actually, the "binding posts" are my clumsy rendering of what I've been using: 10x32 brass screws with a brass nut & a knurled knob... It reminds me of 50's science lab hardware! Kind of awkward with speaker wire unless you put a crimp end on it, though.
With your lower brace going vertically, would you end it at the driver brace, or incorporate a drier brace into a full length vertical brace? Or have them cross behind the driver? Any reason to not have the vertical not really vertical, but slanted? (I'm a furniture maker, and love a wood-butchering challenge) I presume keeping it off center is to discourage standing waves in the box?
I really appreciate your input, thank you! My head would explode with a hundredth of your knowledge.
Matthew
With your lower brace going vertically, would you end it at the driver brace, or incorporate a drier brace into a full length vertical brace? Or have them cross behind the driver? Any reason to not have the vertical not really vertical, but slanted? (I'm a furniture maker, and love a wood-butchering challenge) I presume keeping it off center is to discourage standing waves in the box?
I really appreciate your input, thank you! My head would explode with a hundredth of your knowledge.
Matthew
Something like this?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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No, in fact the Karlson aperture acts as an acoustic lens to improve the dispersion and it is uniform over 0 to 45 deg. The aperture introduces a couple of frequency features (the famous "W") but they don't sound bad. The wide and uniform dispersion makes up for this in many cases. The speaker sounds very good and has a huge sweet spot.
Look at the polars on the RS100P-4:
This is a horrible frequency response from this excellent little speaker, all due to the enclosure. Please don't waste your time on Karlson enclosures unless you like pain without gain.
I think we all know that the frequency response from a Karlson aperture is not flat. What I wanted to get across is how amazingly uniform it is at different angles off axis. The polar response is perhaps better than many horns, and certainly better than the bare driver. Although not flat, what the Karlson does to the response does not sound bad at all. In fact, I think it sounds very good and many folks would agree. Given the popularity of the mini Karlsonator (look at the number of views in the thread and number of happy builds), you might ask yourself if there is more to this? I am simply offering folks an alternative for a great sounding speaker for many genre's and occasions. Here is an example of the uniformity in polar for the RS100 in the XKi over 0-45 deg axis:
Listen to it and see if you think it sounds bad?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/full-range/461177d1422071148-xki-xs-ab-initio-karlson-6th-order-bandpass-xki-rs100p-4-rp-01.zip
xrk971
Cabinet size of the karlson is attractive and wide dispersion also. I assume since the driver is pointing up, this is floor standing? work for as a PC speaker?
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