I used quite a few of the cheap SMD style attenuators that you can find on ebay/ali and have been more than happy with them. I don't consider myself much of an audiophile though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124421717859
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124421717859
Yes, this attenuator with thick film smt resistors is very good indeed, and only around $15.
Unfortunately they do not make these with thin film resistors because of the higher cost.
Of course, one could disassemble the control, remove the resistors in an oven, and
install the better quality parts instead, but that would be a lot of work.
Unfortunately they do not make these with thin film resistors because of the higher cost.
Of course, one could disassemble the control, remove the resistors in an oven, and
install the better quality parts instead, but that would be a lot of work.
I'm still a bit confused. It sounds like this refers to the parts highlighted in this picture? All of them? I could place the loudness tap so the either the resistance between the input and the tap was the same as original, or so the tap to ground resistance is the same.The parts that are directly connected to the loudness tap, see post #7.
I would have expected C5 and R15 in the second picture in the above post to need tweaking? They go to the input of the pot, so the resistance between pin 4 and ground on that board is the resistance of the pot.
Attachments
I had a h*** of a time even finding the Volume pot. Remember when that was an important part? And then it goes on a 50-mile hike both sides of the mountain (and over the multi-bus) to get to the R and C parts. I figured since I had it on my clipboard I may as well dump-back in case it helped others.