I just got a pair of these...
YZ IRAUD200 Momo Class D Power Amplifier Board IRFB4227 IRS2092S 700W Amp CL 144 | eBay
Ohm meter measures 200K at the inputs. Construction is clean, the seller has mostly good feedback. Shipping was $13 and took less than 2 weeks.
I'm using them to revive an old rust bucket AB international chassis.
Although not DIY and Carvin HD3000 looks like a good deal for IRS2092 based amps.
Scott
YZ IRAUD200 Momo Class D Power Amplifier Board IRFB4227 IRS2092S 700W Amp CL 144 | eBay
Ohm meter measures 200K at the inputs. Construction is clean, the seller has mostly good feedback. Shipping was $13 and took less than 2 weeks.
I'm using them to revive an old rust bucket AB international chassis.
Although not DIY and Carvin HD3000 looks like a good deal for IRS2092 based amps.
Scott
Xrk's setup "looks" pretty "OK" to me. I do feel there are any "blatant" violation to safety e.g. exposed live wire everywhere. Of course one can do better by spending more time and effort and resources and make it look "prettier". How much is sufficient, and how much is unsafe practice for DIY hobbies? Most people that are not in the electrical field do not have the in depth safety training and understanding that the professionals have e.g. the "various safety standards" that you do not trust. So judgement call has to be made. I doubt that there are any diyers actually checked the UL codes (or CAS codes in Canada) for every piece of of items they purchased before they used. Can one just trust the UL (or CAS) stamp blindly or should one perform testing to confirm code compliant before implementing?
Safety is about risk management and different people has different level of risk tolerance. For electrical professionals work in the field, there are SOP's for pretty much every operations and I fully understand it is necessary. However, most SOPs are just targeting to meet the minimum safety standard by law (correct me if I am wrong) - in my opinion, they are more for hedging against the potential liability issues although we were told otherwise. Just look at our building codes and electric codes.
I think we should assume that people frequent this forum are adults. And we should have learned do not copy what other people are doing if you do not understand the consequence (remember those warning - ".... these are professional and kids, don't do this at home") We are responsible for what we do and should not blame other people because we followed what they did.
Don't get me wrong, safety is important. Taking risk blindly is foolish and irresponsible. Bottom line, everyone that plays with electricity should learn how to practice "properly" and decided for themselves what are the risk and be ready to live with the consequence.
My 2 cents.
Regards,
Thanks! Do you mean you cannot listen for more than 1 hour because the sound was causing fatgue??
Regards,
its been a while, what I recall is output going instantly out of regulation and folding back at about 1 amp load on each output with both loaded or 2a with one output loaded, so about 100w. Never got hot at all. The components used are sized for the short term output specs listed, about 9 times higher. One thing I did not try is operation on 240v AC, always in 120 Ac mode. Hypex switchers are more capable on 240 Ac for example.
The Anaview/Abletec 300w and 1000w amps with onboard switchers work very well, still somewhat more powerful on 240 Ac vs 120 AC.
Still a good price as sold by PE but apparently no support or service info from mfr available
The Anaview/Abletec 300w and 1000w amps with onboard switchers work very well, still somewhat more powerful on 240 Ac vs 120 AC.
Still a good price as sold by PE but apparently no support or service info from mfr available
I can add it took some times to setup my boards:
you need a good ground star
be carefull with electricity. You can be dead.
=> With a good ground star I always ear a very small mmmmm
It is not audible at 2 meters, but audible at 0.1 meter
I don't think it is an issue with my system as many people have this issue.
Maybe new IRS2092 boards don't have this issue
you need a good ground star
be carefull with electricity. You can be dead.
=> With a good ground star I always ear a very small mmmmm
It is not audible at 2 meters, but audible at 0.1 meter
I don't think it is an issue with my system as many people have this issue.
Maybe new IRS2092 boards don't have this issue
Perhaps some background is in order: I used to work in the lab setting up experiments that routinely used 3 to 10kV voltages and the research nature required setups that were fast and easily modifiable. Certainly, for long term setups where untrained people have access things have to be made safe and idiot proof. I don't intend on running like this in an exposed frame for any long term use. Glad I wired it up quickly because I got to hear what an IRS2092 sounds like. It is a very different principle of operation compared to 3116 or 7492/8 - I feel that the sound is very clear and the head room to push a big woofer is immense. I think having a $40 to $60 solution to an IRS amp is something I have been searching for for a couple years now. The cost of PS has always been the tall hurdle. Now it is no longer.
no , a consumer can be assured a least that a technically competent 3rd party has examined the product for general safety, otherwise all bets are off. There are still deceptions going on today " built to CSA / UL standards" are no guarantee of liability, so the seller / buyer may assume what ever they "feel". product everywhere esp. in China are under fierce market pressures to reduce costs so shortcuts are being exploited, not many for safety!
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One possible explanation is the lower input impedance of the IRS amp. If you were driving it from an opamp with poor drive capability (like a TL072 or even an on-chip one on a DAC) it may well explain the fatigue.
Now I have these boards in my possession the caps have come out of the first one. They do look to be genuine Nichicon HE 330uF/100V and measured ESR is about 25mohm @ 10kHz (considerably better than the DS worst case). Since the MOSFET (pair) fitted under the heatsink's the IRF14019 which is only rated to 150V I'll plug in some 80V caps in place of these.
I have no idea about that.
Incidentally for anyone interested in fiddling with the gain or the input impedance, the input resistors (two in series, 3k and 330ohm) and feedback resistor (120k) are right at the front of the PCB between the blue preset pot and the input connector. The circuit doesn't look to be that of the IRAUDAMP5 from a very brief poke around.
Incidentally for anyone interested in fiddling with the gain or the input impedance, the input resistors (two in series, 3k and 330ohm) and feedback resistor (120k) are right at the front of the PCB between the blue preset pot and the input connector. The circuit doesn't look to be that of the IRAUDAMP5 from a very brief poke around.
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Thanks for confirming that these are real Nichicons. I thought the build quality and components appear to look good. What are other suggested values for setting gain and input impedance ? If I want to be able to drive them with the usual RCA line level outputs of a miniDSP, can I leave it alone?