Thanks Dissi, coils available for the tweeter have other resistance:
0,24 mH 0,21 ohm
1,5 mH 0,38 ohm
Have I to change something?
No, the coils are fine.🙂
Hi Merlin,
I see you are making good progress with your crossover, great. Based on my simulation I propose some minor modifications you can try easily. Disconnect the zobel on the woofer, split the resistor of the tweeter and wire both drivers in phase. At least the simulation looks decent now and I hope the sound of your speaker doesn't tell the opposite.
Hi, The simulation has no particular problem. I can say if I think something good 😉
But if the sound is wrong, maybe in the treble, the tweeter is not flush mounted and the edge of the baffle is a step. It can have some serious diffractions problems in the treble. It's a pitty to have a so good tweeter with a non optimal mount.
See pictures http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/236392-help-3-4-way-loudspeaker.html#post3504354
For Merlin : Zaph|Audio
I think it's easy to fix 😉
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@jerome69
I believe that the best thing is to do a base for the woofer to align both drivers in phase, I have a doubt it brings over of since the drivers align in phase: must I align the part of the interior magnet (the one that stays inside the loudspeaker) or the exterior (where the music goes out)?
I believe that the best thing is to do a base for the woofer to align both drivers in phase, I have a doubt it brings over of since the drivers align in phase: must I align the part of the interior magnet (the one that stays inside the loudspeaker) or the exterior (where the music goes out)?
The crossover is done for unaligned driver.
You have to change the crossover if you change the position of the drivers.
Better to mount correctly the tweeter.
You have to change the crossover if you change the position of the drivers.
Better to mount correctly the tweeter.
Hi Merlin,
I see you are making good progress with your crossover, great. Based on my simulation I propose some minor modifications you can try easily. Disconnect the zobel on the woofer, split the resistor of the tweeter and wire both drivers in phase. At least the simulation looks decent now and I hope the sound of your speaker doesn't tell the opposite.
Disconnected the Zobel on the woofer, again better sound, I have to order the components to change the tweeter's xover, thank you.
More resistance, more attenuation. You can work on both 2R2 and 3R3 components.How can attenuate more or less the tweeter, increasing or decreasing value or 2R2?
Using a 0.22mH inductor instead of a 0.24mH one will slightly change the rolloff - for the better or the worse I don't know. I suspect it is difficult to notice the difference. If you absolutely need the exact value buy a larger inductor and unwind. Some shop will do that for you.Also can I use 0.22mH in place of 0.24mH if yes have I to change something more?
Ralf
Hi, The simulation has no particular problem. I can say if I think something good 😉
But if the sound is wrong, maybe in the treble, the tweeter is not flush mounted and the edge of the baffle is a step. It can have some serious diffractions problems in the treble. It's a pitty to have a so good tweeter with a non optimal mount.
See pictures http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/236392-help-3-4-way-loudspeaker.html#post3504354
For Merlin : Zaph|Audio
I think it's easy to fix 😉
The crossover is done for unaligned driver.
You have to change the crossover if you change the position of the drivers.
Better to mount correctly the tweeter.
See at the end of this page :
Loudspeaker Measurements
Attached pics (outside & inside) to mount the drivers correctly😉 now time to stick and to allow that it should dry off 24 hours🙂
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